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· Peckin' away at it
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting ready to prime my black body Coupe. This is my first major project, I painted a fender before as well as spraying most of a truck that had already been primed. I want decent paint, but not looking for show car. Red with white stripes and meatballs, nonmetallic PPG Deltron DBU base/clear. I have already bought paint. Trying to stick to a tight budget.

I have ground the seams, faired with Rage filler and sanded the whole car. I am planning on using Slick Sand primer, several coats, then a light rattle can guide coat followed by block sanding, 180 up to 400. Planning on shooting the primer in my driveway, no booth. I believe I do not have any major deficiencies in my filler, but...

if I need to, can I go back over the SS with filler?
I got some red Evercoat pigment to add to the SS, thinking it will make the red hide better. OK to do this?

For sanding blocks, I have long flexible and rigid boards and a hand sized block. For the filler I also used a pool noodle chopped up as a poor man's DuraBlock. I cut small pieces for fender valleys. Seemed to work well.

I understand I may need to reprime after blocking. I am not planning on using a sealer. PPG does not say if DBU is OK on the Slick Sand, but it seems that they OK it over their own primers that are similar to SS.

After the Slick Sand is blocked, I am planning on going straight to my stripe/meatball basecoat, putting on a bunch of layers as I have a quart of paint which is more than enough. I figure more coats should hide the reddish primer. I will then follow with a couple of coats of clear over the stripe area. Later, I will then scuff/sand clear. This will give me plenty of time to mask the stripes later, not making for too long a day. I will get low tack vinyl circles to do the meatballs. Will set up booth in garage for base/clear.

Later will do red base, remove masking and clear over everything. I hope that several coats will smooth the transition at the stripe to my modest expectations. Not sure I will wet sand the clear if it looks decent, but that can be done at any time correct?
 

· Junior Charter Member
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111 Posts
You CAN wet sand and buff the clear anytime, usually after 24 hrs,
but be aware, some clears set up really hard after just a couple of
days and can make the process twice as hard if you wait to long.
Depends on the clear on how fast it becomes to hard.
 

· Junior Charter Member
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111 Posts
the best way to level a stripe is to bury it in two separate spray sessions.
Spray 2 to 3 coats, let sit and sand almost smooth then spray a couple more
coats over that.
Also you can lightly sand the edges of the stripe before clear if you're careful,
just enough to remove the sharp edge.
Also, set the masking up so you can pull the tape on the strip immediatly after
spraying the last coat while wet, that will let the paint edge lay down better.
 

· Junior Charter Member
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111 Posts
After the Slick Sand is blocked, I am planning on going straight to my stripe/meatball basecoat, putting on a bunch of layers as I have a quart of paint which is more than enough.
You probably can do that and be ok but it would be better to put some epoxy
primer over the Slick Sand before baseing.
Epoxy is an excellent sealer and you'll have a good base to sand smooth before paint.
Use a coarse paper on the SS to get it straight, then sand the epoxy
with 400 to 600 to get it smooth.
The epoxy will also give you better adhesion, less chipping down the road.
 

· Premium Member
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3,886 Posts
if I need to, can I go back over the SS with filler?
Yes, filler will adhere to the SS, but you should cover the filler with primer.


I got some red Evercoat pigment to add to the SS, thinking it will make the red hide better. OK to do this?
I would be careful about that. Don't know if those products will be compatable.

Since you are doing red, I suggest priming the car with the PPG DP74LF red primer. That will give you a good base to lay color on and it's pretty inexpensive.

I understand I may need to reprime after blocking. I am not planning on using a sealer. PPG does not say if DBU is OK on the Slick Sand, but it seems that they OK it over their own primers that are similar to SS.
The DP74LF will give you a good base to lay color over. It's a primer/sealer.

Now, all that being said, it worked for me, but I'm no pro. I recommend checking all of the above with your paint supplier. :icon18:
 
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