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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

i am ready to leave this car out on the curb for the trash men. i have not driven this car more than 200 miles since i changed this thing.

i am absolutely positive i followed the procedure above to a "T". i had a brand new pinon seal, brand new (expensive) pinon from the Ford dealer, and i even bought the correct removal tool. my nut even came off with exactly the same amount of turns as in the above video. i am positive i whacked the new seal in gently but evenly.

it did not seem to leak the first 100 miles, i checked it all the time and felt good about it. now it's leaking and i have all the oil splatter all over the place again.

is there anything i could have missed.

pissed.

my last post is here if anybody wants to read it.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...243-rear-pinon-seal-replacement-question.html

:mad: :mad: :mad:
 

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Eddie - you changed the pinion so the "paint a couple of spots and put it back exactly the way it was" may not work if the NEW pinion is a tad thicker/thinner than the one you replaced. Personally, iI think that you're inviting more dramatic diff issues if you use this "paint dot" approach and change the pinion.

I used this same approach with my leaky Jeep, and ended up having to sleeve the pinion to patch a groove that the original seal lip had worn. There was a post on a jeep forum from a guy that had measured a couple of pinions and found them to be surprisingly sloppy with their tolerances.

HTH
timm
 

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Snake Farmer
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You mentioned on your earlier thread,

"I am not sure if it helped, but i put the pinion seal in the freezer. it tapped in with a hammer and had no problems, i was afraid of distorting the flange when tapping it in, but it went in very easily"

Any chance that the inner lip of the seal was damaged slightly from being stiff, after freezing it? Presume you used lube on it?
Traditionally you want to apply even pressure all around a seal, when installing one, so although it went in easy, I wonder if there could have been an issue from just using a hammer?

You sure it's not just grease from your U-joints that you are seeing? I noticed that on my car, soon after I put it on the road. Left a splatter on the under-body aluminum. Mine are the grease-able type, so I'm not sure if that may only happen with them, and not the permanently greased and sealed kind?

I feel for you man, you have had more than your fair share of issues with your car.:sad:
 

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I have an IRS. I had a reputable rear end shop install a Eaton Detroit True Trac and New seals. Diff did not leak until the new True Trac was installed.

Diff started leaking out front pinion seal. Out comes the Diff and back to the shop. New Pinion Flange and new Seal.

Diff started leaking again. Had drive shaft balance verified $65.00. Diff back to the shop and another New seal.

Diff is leaking again.

I feel your pain. Try removing and installing the IRS pumpkin by yourself.

Diff will come out again and go back to the shop again. Maybe 4th time will get it fixed.

Maybe the front bearing needs replacement? Or I need to soak a new seal in Diesel to swell the rubber. Tired of the leak.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
- not sure what the "booger" thing is... i'll have to take a closer look.

- i did not use RTV on the new seal, it had that red stuff on it, and the instructions said to put it in dry.

- it is definitely not grease from my U-joints, the oil is absolutely clear and new.

how would a new bearing help?

my insurance card from Robbin is due any day now and i was all excited to start driving again. is there anything i can check, pull on driveshaft in/out, twist it, or ???

at least i have the proper tool for removal, at least i have extra diff fluid, and at least the seal itself is cheap.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
- i will double-check the vent on the axle.

- not sure what the "booger" thing is... i'll have to take a closer look.

- i did not use RTV on the new seal, it had that red stuff on it, and the instructions said to put it in dry.

- it is definitely not grease from my U-joints, the oil is absolutely clear and new.

how would a new bearing help?

my insurance card from Robbin is due any day now and i was all excited to start driving again. is there anything i can check, pull on driveshaft in/out, twist it, or ???

amazing! the car has been sitting around for 4 months and it's still getting bitten! haha

at least i have the proper tool for removal, at least i have extra diff fluid, and at least the seal itself is cheap.

.
 

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Sealing it

Eddie:

1. Install the seal using something flat that covers the whole seal, not a hammer. A piece of hardwood or an actual seal installer tool that has the correct size plate to cover the shell. If you use a hammer, you can dent or warp the seal.

2. Make sure you have the right seal and put some grease or gear grease on the pinion surface and on the seal lips before you install the pinion flange.

3. See if you can find one of these SKF seals, they are really superior to the usual off the shelf ones.

http://www.vsm.skf.com/~/media/Files/enUS/HeavyDuty/457630_5_2012.ashx

Looks like RockAuto has them.

More Information for SKF 18190

4. Be patient, you will triumph in the end.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
perfect... i'm going to get me one o' dem better seals that are made from a proven fluoroelastomer for a better seal.

just hoping the crush sleeve, bearing, or anything else internal would not contribute to a leak.

cheers and thank you,

:)
 

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Eddie

Make sure you put some clean grease on seal lip when installing. I would find a socket or a small piece of thick wall pipe that matches the metal surface diameter and hit that with a hammer to put it in. Tap in evenly. Also make sure the vent isn't painted shut or dirt clogged.
 

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ff cobra master craftsman
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Some times when you have a stubborn seal and use a seal remover you can gouge the metal housing, check to see if you have a small nick in the housing. If you do you can use a small jewlers file to smooth it out then apply some silcone to fill the small void, the other thing that can happen also if you apply to much force to install the seal the spring can pop out the spring keeps tension on the seal so it remains tight on the yoke, but usually if you loose the spring you will get a wierd wine type noise.
 

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I may be way off base here but here's what I am thinking as a possible source for the problem. Did you torque the pinion nut? The crush sleeve in the housing adds preload to the bearings. If the diff has some miles on it the bearings will have some minimal wear and make the pinion shaft wobble a bit which will wear the seal to the larger diameter hence the leak. If you torque the pinion nut to spec it removes this wobble. After you remove the drive shaft grab the pinion and try to move it up and down and see if you can detect any free play. Not sure this will help but since you are taking it apart it costs no $$ to try.
Just an idea:
HTH
CB
 
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