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Too Cheap to paint!
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6,423 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Motor is out, and I pulled off the trans & clutch to get to the seal.

It's definitely toast! Lip is gone, actually worn down to the fibers inside! No wonder it leaked! Crank has a very light ring in it, but I do not think it will be an issue, as I could barely feel it with a tool, mostly smooth.





Clutch looked great after 1.5 years, 4000 miles of mostly track, my hydraulic set-up works!

Just wanted to share the seal pics, as many never get to this point with thier cars. I figure it's great info!
 

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Former Roadster Owner
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1,861 Posts
If its not too late you might want to put a sleeve on your crankshaft for the new seal to ride on. If you need the part number for the sleeve just email me. -dan
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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6,423 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dan, I have heard of the sleeve, but never seen it. Can you provide More info?
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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6,423 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pics or info? I don't fully just trust a new seal.
 

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section 8
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5,136 Posts
Get the sleeve that crank doesn't look to good to me .It goes over the sealing surface on the crank so the new seal wont get wiped out . More important , how did it get that way? Age + mileage or??? Bob
 

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iBuild
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5,824 Posts
Dan,

Here is a company called microsleeve, their website looks to have pretty good information on the product as well as the parts catalog on a PDF.

http://www.microsleeve.com/csrs.html

-Scott
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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6,423 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll look for it! I want a dry car! Thanks.

Wear is simply the mileage, over 230,000 miles on the motor.
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Rod,

Been doing some research, some easy questions:

What kind of material is the sleeve, metal or other? How easy did it slide over the end of the crank? Did you buy the installation tool? Since you mdid the mod. no more leaking as advertised?

Many Thanks!
 

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Senior Charter Member
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6,104 Posts
Dan, I have used them for several applications. They also go by the name of speedi sleeve. You can get them in a lot of parts stores. I put one on my balancer but not on the crank.

They are a very thin piece of steel. It is a very tight fit. You need to put them on very very straight or you will crush them trying to put them on. I usually use a piece of wood to bang them on. Some are just a sleeve. Others are more of a "can" and you tear the bottom off when done. The "can" type are much easier to put on.

Also, I imagine someone could try using ice or dry ice on the male piece and heating the sleeve up with a torch or in an oven so it will expand. I have never tried that but it would probably help.
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
To pre-heat, toaster oven or boiling water?

How did they work for you? any leaks after?
 

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Premium Member
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16,561 Posts
Ditto what usmc2683553 said, thin metal sleeve. I had my crank out and it was a bit of a pain to get on without the tool. I finally did heat it up in the oven which made things easier. I would not use a torch as you could get hot spots that weaken the material. I also use a flat piece of wood to tap it on so it was fully supported. The sleeve I used has a slight rolled lip that seats on the slight bevel at the end of the crank (see your pic above). Here is a pic mine after reassembly. You can see the rolled lip and parting line between it and the crank.



BTW, I dug through my records and found the P/N which is 16250 ($15 at Summit under P/N FEL_16250) for my '87 crank. You should be able to get them from any decent parts place.

Cheers, Rod
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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12,975 Posts
I have used the repair sleeves on both ends of the crank. Felpro brand. Pretty sure they have a chrome plating on them and very smooth and "thin" as a beer can. Last one I used from fel pro for the balancer end of crank came with a install tool and small tube of lock tite sealer.
 
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