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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I need some ideas on my brakes. I've got a Mark II, #4474. Finished in 2005, only had 4900 miles when I bought it 7 months ago. Up to 7500 now. It's got 4 wheel manual disk brakes. Not sure of the original application but it's 5 lug and they are Ford calipers. To me, the pedal effort seems too high, by a lot!. I've had other manual brake cars and non were like this. It'll stop, but I have to put my whole leg into it.

I'm just trying to figure out what I've got and if the pedals/master cylinder are set up for manual brakes. Power brakes would be nice, but there is no room for a booster unless I cut and move some stuff. That would be last resort as the body is on and I'm having a blast driving it. I took some pics and was hoping you guys might give some insight as to what I have.

Master cylinder is iron, appears to be the Jeep unit FFR advises to use, but it could be a another Ford. I was able to get the Bendix casting number off the bottom, but they used the same basic casting for many 70-80's Ford and Jeep mc's. The brake lines run straight to the calipers with no distribution block or proportioning valve.

Pedal box should be a 89 Mustang GT. I have the paperwork and pics where the first owner (I am #3) bought one for a donor.

The brake pedal has been cut, moved over and welded to make more room for the gas pedal. The pushrod is very beefy, but It's not adjustable. No joint, just is over the pin on the brake pedal. The pin looks like it's been welded,but I don't see another hole nor do I see any extra holes in the pedal box to move the brake pedal cross shaft to. There are a couple of much smaller holes that don't look large enough and they are very much forward of where the shaft is now.

If need be, I can start by swapping the brake pads and then maybe the m/c. Just trying to figure out what I have.
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Sorry about the pic quality but cane anyone tell me what I have?
 

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Take a look at post #11 in this thread.

That will help you determine if your pedal has the proper ratio for manual brakes. It will be a bugger to get in there to measure but it looks like you've already had some practice. Next item are the brake pads. Check your paperwork to see if the original owner/builder noted what he used.This was a hot topic back then. I have FFR 4440 with T-Bird IRS and 73MM Lincoln front calipers and used Porterfield R4s pads with good results. Since then others have come on the market that will provide good bite. A pad switch may be all you need. Good luck
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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If it has Ford Discs on all corners, than the M/C should be a different one? I started off with the 94 Rear discs and Fox discs up front, Used the 15/16" ID M/C from the 1995 Mustang Cobra. Worked fine, and then experimented with brake pads. I also did the brake pedal mod, thich shortened the length up top. I later upgraded the front brakes to first the Standard PBR 2-piston calipers, than the PBR Cobra calipers, still have the 15/16" ID M/C.

My thinking is the M/C?
 

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At the time 4475 was built the Jeep 10-1896 master was the tried and true solution for disc brakes and has a 15/16 inch bore. FWIW.
 

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Cross Menber
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If your brake peddle is cut, the next step would be flush the brake fluid and replace with new.
Then try a more aggressive brake pad. I like the EBC Yellow pads.

I have the jeep MC and went from HARD brakes to normal usable with fluid change and new front pads.
 

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Official OLD GUY
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From the pictures you have supplied, looks like your original builder did just about what everyone else did in that time era; Jeep master at 15/16", FORD calipers front and rear, no proportioning valve.

FWIW, you are closely describing my car. I run the Jeep 15/16" dual (iron) master. My fronts are the upgraded PBR's with dual pistons running on 13" rotors. Rears are the standard T-Bird option offered back then, single piston calipers running on 11.65 rotors. My pedal has been modded to work with manual brakes and I can lock all four wheels if needed. Pedal effort is not excessive but it's not power-feeling by any means. Can't really say I ever had to "stand on the pedal" to get the car to stop, it does that quite well with my setup. If I wanted more from my brakes I'd go with pads before power, but that's just me . . .

Power brakes are do-able with the body on, just not a walk in the park easy. Many owners have done it after experiencing what you are going thru. There should be plenty of room unless you have mounted something else in that area. That being said, I'd verify the pedal has been modded - do it if it hasn't. Next step would be a more aggressive pad arrangement. Last step, do the power upgrade. Everything will change pedal-wise if you go that route.

Doc
 
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