UPDATE 2 - See pics further down for my header interference fix.
UPDATE - I installed my engine/tranny to check for clearance today and the 4-into-4's do hit the footbox. No big deal since I thought they might. I'll post my fix as soon as I get it done. I can't say if the normal Mustang headers would also hit or not.
Just finished doing up the sheet metal for my passenger footbox mod. Made new top, bottom and front panels. Modified original inboard panel. Will check for clearance issues with the 4-into-4's when I install the engine. If there is any problem I will make a scalloped insert (something like the reverse of the Mark II steering covers).
Thanks Sergio! Trying to get all my planned mods out of the way first. Only one left is to drop the trunk down and then the rest should go relatively quickly. Also have a bit to finish up on my E-brake mod and then I'll post pics. That one is turning out really well (at least I think so)! Lots of drilling left to do.
Those 4.6's eat up a lot of space don't they. From the looks of your video the other day I'd say that, in your case, the trade off is worth it! Only took 45 minutes to download that one at 54K!
Hey DV, nice pc of work, copied it down for "work to do" list. Seems as though there is decent space in drivers side (for my feet anyway) but sure don't want anything more for the wife to complain about (I didn't get her a roll bar).
Rod,
It's a great mod! I have been looking at the footbox for a long time and trying to figure out how actually to do a mod.
Please describe what tools you used and how you did it.
I have been thinking to extend the foobox to same length as the driver's, do you see any problem with that?
Arne
Rod,
It's a great mod! I have been looking at my footbox for a long time and trying to figure out how actually to do a mod.
Please describe what tools you used and how you did it.
I have been thinking to extend the foobox to same length as the driver's, do you see any problem with that?
Arne
Great mod Rod. Looks like you have access to a break. Wish I did. Makes the bends look so much better. Also, kudos for just replacing the pieces rather than splicing like I did. Makes the overall job look so much better.
Paul
Wantdat, Thanks! Since your using a 302 you might be interested in my free driver's side footbox mod as well.
TonyTiger, Thanks!
colcarlmiss, I'll try and post some drwaings of the new panels in the next couple of days. I don't know if you could extend it further forward and this far inboard without hitting the pipes. I doubt it. Others have done a forward extension (but narrower) so do a search on "passenger footbox mod" and you should find some info. I'm not even sure I won't have some interference as it is.
Champ, Wish I had a metal brake! All the bends were done by clamping a 3' x 3" x 1/8" steel bar to the piece and then pounding it over with a rubber mallet. Long cuts were done using the same piece of steel as a straight edge and cutting it with a pneumatic nibbler.
dv/dt,Thanks!
Great information! I have been looking at different bending brakes, but they are pretty pricy for one foot box mod.
I already have a nibbler and I will buy the steel bar right away. I have not bought my engine yet, but I will get a small block 302/351 and a Mass-Flo fuel injection. I presume the engine then will by symmetrical, so the passenger foot box can have the same length as the driver, but I am not sure.
Maybe somebody futher along in the build can advise.
Arne
Hi Arne,
The drive train is offset to the passenger side a bit which is why I am not sure if I will have enough clearance. If not I will have a bit more work ahead of my but nothing major. When you get the steel bar you wil notice that one edge is sharper and the other is rounded a bit because of how they are cut with a shear. You want to bend using the more rounded edge as 6061-T6 can crack if bend to sharply. The nibbler is a great little tool but has a mind of it's own if you don't use an guide to run it against.
Black lines are the outline (cut).
Red/brown lines are construction lines (no bend or cut)
Magenta lines are bend lines (note carefully which way to bend).
For the inboard side panel cut the top flange to match the bend in the new top panel. Bend on a line from that cut to the begining of the cutout for the 4" tube at the bottom. Once bent mock everything up and then mark the front edge of the inboard panel to match the front of the new box shape.
colcarlmiss, your welcome! For the bottom I copied the FFR piece and extended the front inboard corner which results in a non-square corners. Not sure why they do it that way but you could probably square it up. Looks OK as is though.
Jeff, I know what you mean, I am currently trying to do all the mods that I might regret not doing later. Dropped trunk mod is next.
I made the same footbox mod on my 4.6 SOHC. Here are a couple of pictures. The only thing is I am using the stock headers and I think it would work with the shorty headers but I don't know about the 4 into 4's. Also you have to leave about 3/4 of an inch between the 4 inch frame tube and the inside aluminum wall. Here are some pictures.
UPDATE - I installed my engine/tranny to check for clearance today and the 4-into-4's do hit the footbox. No big deal since I thought they might. I'll post my fix as soon as I get it done. I can't say if the normal Mustang headers would also hit or not.
Here are the pics of my fix for the header interference.
Formed this out of 0.040" aluminium. I'm not sure of the spec since it was a piece I had lying around but it was not 6061_T6 which could not have been formed like this.
Interior shot showing thet the fix did not take away very much from the space added by the original mod.
This is the finished patch with some heat shield installed.
Thats a nice mod for the headers. You can find an old stump, hollow it out for a dish, then heat up the aluminum with a weed torch or torch, then use a wooden mallet to form the piece as you want it. When heated up any metal can be shaped to a desired profile, just make sure that it's not zink coated because the zink becomes toxic when it gases off from the heat. You can form press metal when heated as well with dies, hammers, swedges and whatnot!
I tracked it down. Thanks. LK motorsports built the car.
Have friend who just bought an FFR from a lien sale and we are trying to find out is history, owners, kit number, etc. All that came from the lien sale was a clean SB100 title. Here is what we know about the car.
1. Built by a...
After seeing some recent threads and looking at some engine builders websites and prices i am just blown away. OVer 6K for a long block stroker without an intake carb etc-you must be crazy. I built by 302 with cobra valve covers, oval air cleaner, chris richards mass-flo system, 30lb injectors...
I was going to use the mustang booster but don't like the way it sticks up so high. It looks like it will get in the way of the body mounting. If it doesn't putting fluid in would be a dream trip. Is it possible to use the jeep master with stock drum rear brakes. Other solutions are welcomed. Thanks
Car is wired with one exception...WS wipers. Seems to be a popular topic lately, but a search didn't answer my question. What would happen if I used a seperate momentary switch to the "park" location on the wiper motor? Thinking about running a jumper from the power feed on the wiper switch...
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