Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Senior Charter Member
Joined
·
537 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those of you who have painted your donor parts (i.e. spindles, calipers, steering rack, rear diff, etc) what type of paint have you used? I figured for the calipers I would use a "caliper paint", but what about for the other parts? Any particular brands that you have found better than others? How much prep work did you do before painting - I have just been wire brushing (attached to a drill) the parts and this seems to work okay...
Thanks for the input!
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
3,645 Posts
por 15
 

·
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Joined
·
8,694 Posts
RoKaNo,

I'm about a week behind you, I think. A little off topic but if you have a compressor, you can buy a really cheap sandblaster. I paid about $12 in their store for a floor model unit that has a shoulder strap. You use superfine playground sand in these - $4.00 per 50 pounds at any good hardware store. This will clean your parts to bare metal in record time and do a much better job than a wire brush, if you want to go further than you already have. I was on the fence about a compressor until the Forum convinced me to buy one for air riveting, impact tools, die grinders, cutting tools, primer painting, etc.

Regarding paint - not much to say (no experience here) except the makers of POR-15 paints have a lot of high quality (pricey?) products for many applications. I'm guessing that their products would be preferred because they can tolerate any rust that wasn't completely removed.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
29,559 Posts
I used some BBQ silver rattle can paint for the front spindles and IFS brackets.
 

·
Senior Charter Member
Joined
·
357 Posts
I have been bead blasting the parts where I could and then use products from POR15 (www.por15.com). I use their cleaning and metal prep products before using their primer and top coats. They are very good (expensive) products and I highly recommend them. Skip
 

·
FFCobra Master Craftsman
Joined
·
8,694 Posts
Sorry to hijack but this seems important.

Rodman -

What do you use to blast if not playground sand and where do you buy it? Is the sand OK if I use a mask (cheap mask or does it have to be a pretty serious one)? If not, do you know somebody with an empty sandbox?
 

·
Too Cheap to paint!
Joined
·
6,461 Posts
I cleaned everything in the parts washer and primed them at work. Then, suspension and brake parts with engine paint, other assorted bits with a high quality semi-gloss spray paint. So far looks good, holding up as I put it together.

I'm also having fun machining alot of brackets and parts out of scrap aluminum at work!!! :D

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
I have ground all sharp edges off then sand blasted, etching primer, Euro primer filler, yellow base coat and 3 coats clear polyurethane. No matter what gets on that finish in will wipe off and few chemicals will hurt it. I did the chassis and rearend also. People ask why and I answer "because I can".
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
256 Posts
I had many of the components sand blasted at a local shop (actually pretty cheap) and then used either POR15 or an engine enamel if used near heat. I did use a two part caliper paint for the calipers.
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Beadblast, or sandblast, then use either VHT extreme temp paint (the 1500 degree stuff), or have powdercoated.

Most aluminum stuff I have powdercoated, because aluminum is so hard to paint, to me.

The VHT stuff works really well, if you let it set out in the Texas sun for half a day, but you're going to have trouble doing that living where you do :D Don't use the wife's oven to bake it on. She won't like that........

I guess I need to get familiar with the POR 15 stuff. Sounds like good stuff.

td

td
 

·
Over Engineerer
Joined
·
2,921 Posts
I used a lot of POR 15 (POR = Paint Over Rust). Use their metal prep first, then paint it with a brush. Their silver "paint" has a very high solids content (you need to stir it forever to get them all suspended) so it's a great base for rough parts (like spindles and differentials) because it tends to fill out nice & smooth. I used gloss black over that and it looks like the parts are powder coated. In fact, I put the POR15 gloss black on my powder coated frame wherever it needed touch ups (frome welding misc stuff on and cutting misc stuff off) and you can hardly see any difference.
 

·
FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
4,257 Posts
DMW,

You can buy sandblasting sand in various sized granules. I buy mine not overly far from you at a place called DelGrecos. They are on Rt 20 in Northboro, just about a mile west of the center of town. There are places that also sell stuff called "black magic" which is ground up coal slag that I'm told works better than sand and isn't affected by moisture. Moisture was my biggest problem....and a too small compressor.
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
123 Posts
Rustoleum and it's great.
 

·
Heat & Beat Specialist
Joined
·
529 Posts
We powdercoated everything that would fit in the oven. The big stuff got POR-ed.
 

·
Senior Charter Member
Joined
·
537 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for all the great replies!

Seems like alot of folks are sand-blasting before painting - for those of you who have not, do you regret not sand-blasting the parts before hand?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,698 Posts
I found some rattle can paint called "Cast Blast" It looks exactly like bare cast iron, and is heat proof. I painted a set of headers with it over a year ago, and it looks almost the same as the day I painted them. I think the paint is made by Martain Seymour.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top