[rlogan]

I have heard many opinions on the painless harness concerning the headlight circuits. I have heard that you should upgrade to 10 gauge wire. I have heard that you should use a relay. I have heard that you should do both of these. What have you guys been doing?

If I put in relays, what size? The same for low beam and high beam? What gauge wire does it really require?

I would assume that Painless knows what they are doing...but assumptions can be bad? Are there any other shortcomings of the harness I should know about?

[ September 06, 2002, 05:25 PM: Message edited by: rlogan ]

 

[JerryH]

I used a relay and 10 gauge wire. Not an electrical expert but have heard that the switches can't handle the higher loads. Ran 10 ga. all the way to the light to then find a much smaller gauge wire at the headlight itself. Oh well, easy future upgrade to HID or a higher watt. bulb if I want to later.

 

[Don Moffitt]

I followed the painless directions. No problems at all with any of the circuits works great. Don

 

[John / My427SC]

I used relays only because of the toggle switches that I used. I kept the stock Painless wires that runs to the headlight (908 & 909)

I think the other reason to use a relay if if you were expecting a high current draw, but with these headlights - I don't see it.

I think Painless knows what they are doing. They included a relay for the horn circuit, I guess they felt the headlight circuit was OK. I think sometimes we get a little carried away in "over-engineering" which I certainly am guilty of

 

[wnstwolf]

Stock out of the box Painless and FFR lights no issues and very straight forward connecting....

Only changes were to review My427.com great input on adding R/S diodes to seperate left from right on the turn signals and hazzards!

 

[Cemi]

No wire upgrade and no relay with my Painless harness. No problems either. I do have a standard push pull type headlight switch that can take the amps.