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Curious George
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260 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's my running list of 'extras' on top of the roadster itself... yikes, you guys aren't kidding about how things can get out of control....!!

I have a bunch of common 'good known items' and others that may be optional, which ones do you have, or wish you had? please add more to my wallet :) LOL
items with an 'X' I already have....

everything should be linked if you need more info :)

edit: updated with feedback

SystemPart#DescriptionPrice
A/CFord JR3Z-19703-A A/C compressor$400.00
A/CAIRCONDITIONWhitby Motorcars A/C, Heat, Defroster$1,400.00
Body70551Breeze Lower Radiator Support Kit$44.00
Body70772Breeze Radiator Fan Shroud$79.00
BodyMDL2500Driveshaft Safety Loop$129.00
BodyFFMetal Firewall Forward Kit$179.00
Body70558Heavy Duty Hinged Radiator/Shroud Mounting Kit$45.00
Body70031Radiator Cowl Cover Kit for use with FFR Hinges$44.00
BodyROADSTER RADIATOR ALUMINUM PANEL$90.00
BodyAlex's Wheel Well Liners$255.00
Body35303Billet Aluminum Side-View Mirror Set with Polished Finish$250.00
Body15199PREMIUM MK4 CONVERTIBLE SOFT TOP$3,484.00
BrakesCNC TRIPLE ALUMINUM RESERVOIR KIT$185.00
CoolingBMS-104BMS-104 Lower hose kit for Coyote$164.00
FuelAEI-12347Aeromotive 12347 Line Filter (an-6 Male) 10 Micron$118.04
FuelAEI-12701Aeromotive 12701 Filter Mounting Bracket, Black Spring Steel$19.94
Fuel14031Boyd Welding Factory Five MK4 Stealth 340 Tank$867.00
FuelCIN-SN35T11Classic Instruments SN35T11$95.99
InteriorCobra Valley Seat Heaters$189.00
Interior70561Breeze Engine Compartment Battery Mounting Kit, Mk4 Roadster$139.00
Interior35456Breeze Koolmat Insulation Kit for Mk4 Roadster Rear Cockpit Wall$169.00
Interior35455Breeze Koolmat Insulation Kit for Mk4 Roadster, 14 piece$419.00
Interior185913Dark Water Customs Door Sill Trim$79.95
Interior185861Dark Water Customs Glove Box$57.50
InteriorDash steering hole trim ring$30.00
Interior70602Installation Kit for New Steel Frame “Classic” Seats$189.00
InteriorRuss Thompson Turn Signal$275.00
InteriorUnder Dash Filler Panel$35.00
InteriorCONSOLEWhitby Motorcars Center Console$50.00
SteeringFactory Five ePowerSteering kit$650.00
TiresA052Yokohama ADVAN A052 Tires$1,711.90
 

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484 Posts
Toad
I'm planning on making my own radiator mounts. Check out some of my recent posts on both forums. Should be much cheaper than buying premade and doesn't seem to difficult. Consider the RT drop trunk kit. Not on his website for some reason but just email or call Russ. Instead of RT turn stalk, I'm going to use a momentary toggle switch and signal dynamics self cancelling module for my turn signals. Auto cancels after a set time. Breeze front battery box frees up some trunk space. Consider Herbs door cards too. I'm doing custom leather interior and just shipped him my material. Consider weather pack connectors for your lights too. Cheaper to buy them from replicaparts than ordering al a cart on your own. I feel like I just saved you $100 but spent $500 more!
 

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Curious George
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260 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
yeah, I'm working with Russ already on the turn signal - my buddy is trying to do a controller mod to improve functionality... :)
I'm really liking the usage of a turn signal stalk like I've always used...

The 25th comes with door cards already, will definitely do weather pack connectors, they're relatively cheap and work fantastically!

Can't do the drop trunk because I went with the bigger Boyd Welding custom tank - holds > 24 gallons and it's a work of art!

I think for the effort that Mark does, I'll buy the radiator parts from him - I appreciate good, repeatable craftsmanship and I'll contribute to his design - even though it may cost a little more, it's 1 and done!

Great feedback!!!
 

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Premium Member
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17,773 Posts
A/C in an open Roadster?

Gordon Levy told me that a power booster with Wilwood brakes is not a good idea. He said it turns the brake pedal into an On-Off switch.

You can easily make your own radiator supports for about $10.

The Boyd fuel tank holds 20 gallons. The Mustang and FFR tanks hold (I think) 16 gallons. Is it worth $1,000 for an additional 4 gallons?

Everything else on your list looks pretty good. All things I would be considering.
 

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Curious George
Joined
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260 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
A/C in an open Roadster?

Gordon Levy told me that a power booster with Wilwood brakes is not a good idea. He said it turns the brake pedal into an On-Off switch.

You can easily make your own radiator supports for about $10.

The Boyd fuel tank holds 20 gallons. The Mustang and FFR tanks hold (I think) 16 gallons. Is it worth $1,000 for an additional 4 gallons?

Everything else on your list looks pretty good. All things I would be considering.
Yeah I’m on the fence with the brake booster, if stock mustang brakes can stop a car 2x the weight of the cobra, the Wilwoods will be amazing

My buddy has the tank and it’s ~24-26 gallons




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Senior Charter Member
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6,381 Posts
Yes, A/C is usable on a roadster. I was traveling top down through Nevada in the summer and was much more comfortable with the cool air blowing on my face. With my top up it is as comfortable as any car.

Also I have seat heaters that do help keep your back side warm on cool rides.

I also like my cruise control, makes longer drives a lot more relaxing.

Regards, Rick.
 

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Comments: Some of this I suspect you already know, but FWIW. Dark Water Customs sells via a "wish list." You may or may not be able to get parts from them. Don't understand the DWC glove box anyway. The 25th Anniversary carbon dash already has a glove box. CNC triple reservoirs aren't available any longer. The company stopped doing business. The kit comes with windshield trim plates that are just fine. You'll get lots of opinions about electric assist power steering. Haven't owned or driven, but respect the opinion of those who give it mixed reviews. Big fan of the KRC setup on the Coyote which I have owned and driven. Works perfectly. I personally wouldn't put power assist on the Wilwood brakes. Agreed the pedal is a bit heavier, but the upgraded Wilwood brakes with the unmodified Wilwood pedal box works great. No reason to mess with it or spend the money IMO. I personally wouldn't install A/C in a Roadster, but obviously some like it. I do live in a relatively mild climate however. I also don't comprehend the larger tank. Big cost and complication at the expense of trunk space. Not a good trade-off and why? With a Coyote and the stock tank, you'll be able to drive much further than your body will be comfortable. This I know from experience. Highly recommend heated seats. They're a hit with everyone that rides in my cars. Easy and not an expensive add.
 

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Premium Member
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1,139 Posts
If you're going with the FFMetal Firewall Forward, you won't need the Firewall Support. The Firewall Forward is 0.090" thick aluminum, which is plenty solid for whatever you need it to support.


John
 

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Not a waxer
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11,629 Posts
Just a few comments which are only personal opinions based on nearly 20 years of building these things

I agree with Paul regarding the fuel tank. I would much, MUCH rather have the factory 15+ gallon tank and then do the mod to expand the trunk into the dead space above it. As he said you aren't going to drive the tank dry without stopping anyway---you'll be well over 300 miles between fill ups and even at spirited highway speeds that's going to be over 4 hours. You won't want to stay in the saddle that long in one stretch.

Somewhat related to the tank is your Classic Instruments sender. I don't know what gauges you plan to use but if it is the FFR/Speedhuts that 240-33 ohm sender may not be compatible (Ford sender in the factory tank is 16-158)

Not a fan of the electric power steering. My experience is only after driving one roadster with it but I found it spooky coming off center.

When used on the Mk4 (Mk3 and earlier are different) the full surround windshield trim plates will hold the windshield corners 3/16"-1/4" above the cowl which will usually allow the gasket on the lower edge of the frame to gap. Stick with the "C" shaped ones provided so that it will seat properly. (Sorry Mike)

I wouldn't boost the Wilwoods either.

JMHO. I know you've tried to do tons of planning and look forward to seeing you finally get started!

Jeff
 

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172 Posts
To add a little more. I have the Willwoods with no power assist and no issues. I am all about feed back in the pedal and I believe you lose some of that with the power set up. These are cars are so light the pedal effort is small anyways. Agree on the seat heater. Extends the comfort range a lot. Unless you are getting a top and will have it up in the summer, I would probably pass on the AC. I did the radiator mounting, shroud, battery mount, radiator hard tubes from Breeze. All high quality goods and highly recommend. I have a standard power steering setup on a Coyote. Not sure I would do that again either. Not needed on the highway and only time it would turn it would turn a little hard is at slow speeds into a parking place or maybe if you were on a tight autocross course. These cars are far lighter than anything most have driven. Simple is good!
 

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Insert my standard power steering spiel here: PS is not just about reduced effort. Yes, it's nice at real slow speeds, parking, etc. But agreed once moving the standard steering is low effort. What PS is really about is the change it allows to the front geometry. The increased caster possible with PS changes how the car drives, centers, etc. Just a much more pleasant experience. And yes, if you're planning to autocross (not my thing...) many reported it's basically mandatory. Bottom line, I've had both and won't go back to manual.
 

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Curious George
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260 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Yes, A/C is usable on a roadster. I was traveling top down through Nevada in the summer and was much more comfortable with the cool air blowing on my face. With my top up it is as comfortable as any car. Also I have seat heaters that do help keep your back side warm on cool rides.
I also like my cruise control, makes longer drives a lot more relaxing.

Regards, Rick.
Good call on the seat heaters, I know there are a few models out there - any recommendations? Forgot to put them on the list, but will add them now...
Cobra Valley's Hot Seat - Seat Heaters <- these look great!

also, the A/C will be nice because here in NorCal it can be 110F in the summer, not a fun time without a roof - but with a hat, and A/C at least moving cool air it will help a bit...

Don't understand the DWC glove box anyway.
CNC triple reservoirs aren't available any longer. The company stopped doing business. The kit comes with windshield trim plates that are just fine.
You'll get lots of opinions about electric assist power steering. Haven't owned or driven, but respect the opinion of those who give it mixed reviews.
the DWC box in between the seats is what I'm after, a little more usable cabin storage, things like windbreakers, etc...
I believe @Mike Forte is working on a replacement for the CNC triple reservoir :) for now it's a placeholder in my list...
I just ordered the EPS, I wanted something different than the usual power steering pump - and it's less expensive - plus as you mentioned, I can setup better alignment - we will see how it goes!

If you're going with the FFMetal Firewall Forward, you won't need the Firewall Support. The Firewall Forward is 0.090" thick aluminum, which is plenty solid for whatever you need it to support.
good point, when I talked with Whitby they never used the FFMetal Firewall Forward kit - not sure if needed yet... I think Whitby is still a few weeks from finishing their new A/C/Heater/Defroster kit

Somewhat related to the tank is your Classic Instruments sender. I don't know what gauges you plan to use but if it is the FFR/Speedhuts that 240-33 ohm sender may not be compatible (Ford sender in the factory tank is 16-158)

JMHO. I know you've tried to do tons of planning and look forward to seeing you finally get started!
the classic instruments sender is 240-33 ohm which will work with the 25th anniversary gauges, made sure to check! :)
I'm super excited to get started!

Anyone use the Zero Clearance stuff?




I worry about visibility in the engine bay since it will be black powdercoated, but the coyote is so large, I don't think anyone will even notice! I hear this stuff is supposed to be pretty good at keeping the heat down... any experience here?
 

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I've used these multiple times. WarmSeats Seat Heaters. Some use the waterproof ones. I've just used the regular ones. Either way. I believe Mike Forte sells these same ones, but I'm not sure. I've always purchased them directly from this website.

Better alignment from PS is either electric or hydraulic boost. Doesn't matter.

I personally doesn't see any value on firewall side insulation. Doesn't look great and the Coyote is really close anyway. No point in adding additional thickness. I've always insulated on the inside, and it's 100% effective. Especially the Coyote, which is a relatively cool running engine in the first place.

Good luck on the "few weeks" from Whitby. Just saying.

Seems like your mind is pretty made up on all this stuff. Budget, what what budget?
 

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Not a waxer
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11,629 Posts
You said:

... I hear this stuff is supposed to be pretty good at keeping the heat down...
But before that you said:

...here in NorCal it can be 110F in the summer...
So...given that, I think it's safe to say that insulating the engine bay ain't gonna' matter because that's not where the heat will be coming from ;)

Jeff
 

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Curious George
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260 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
You said:

But before that you said:
So...given that, I think it's safe to say that insulating the engine bay ain't gonna' matter because that's not where the heat will be coming from ;)

Jeff
touche! LOL

actually some friends here have said (with non-coyote motors) that the footbox gets REALLY hot in summer...
also, what about the trans tunnel? will the basic panel insulation be good enough?
 

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Not a waxer
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11,629 Posts
Define "good enough". Here's my experience: every car I've built for clients as well as for myself has been insulated with inexpensive Reflectix and then covered with the FFR carpet. Never been in 110 degree heat but lots of sunny 90-95 degree days. In those conditions the carpet in the footboxes, the floor or on the tunnel is warm to the touch but never hot. Quite simply, if you're sitting in the sun with an ambient temperature of 90 degrees plus---whether it's in an open car or your back yard---you're going to be hot! The heat is from that big orange ball in the sky more than from what's under your hood.

Jeff
 
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