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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I never even gave used or reman'd a second thought...My intention from the start has always been to go 100% new for my build...

Well...99.9% if you include a used foot box...

What is everyone's opinion on the remanufactured blocks.

The post about the Engine Factory got me thinking about it as I believe their blocks are reman'd. But, they do also clean them up and blueprint the setup...so...theoretically, you could have a smoother running and stronger engine then if you went with a new 'non-blueprinted' engine...

I know the engines in most piston planes are remans or overhauls...very rarely new out of the box.

Thoughts? Comments?

Neill
 

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Neil,
I guess it depends on who you get the engine from and what you want it for. My engine is a reman from Jasper, it's their 302 H.O., and I have Edelbrock carb and intake on it. I know, it may not be the world best, but I wasn't looking for 500 hp in my car. If I really, really decide I must have wild hp numbers, I'll sell my motor and buy a big block. But I see nothing wrong with my engine. It has a 3/36,000 mile warranty, runs great and I can do upgrades for more power if I want (although I'm sure that'll void the warranty).

By the way, you'll have to let me know when your car is done. My wife and I will be going to Atlantis, Paradise Island in October for our anniversary. We were there for our honeymoon 2 1/2 years ago, and loved it so much.

Steve
 

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I think it depends on how much performance you are prepared to pay for. I saw the Engine Factory post and it looks like a good setup that avoids higher costs by using adequate level parts but not what you might specify if you were building a higher performance engine. For instance stock rods vs H beam rods, hypereutectic pistons vs forged pistons, and Edelbrock heads vs AFR heads. How much power do you need?
 

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A used block is usually preferable since all the stresses are out of it (hot and cold cycling). A reputable engine builder will have the block cleaned, magnafluxed, bored, honed, and the deck height cleaned up as a minimum.

From there, you can have the engine blueprinted, which increases the costs significantly. For instance, the deck height can me matched (both sides even distance from the crank centerline. The crankshaft can be shot peened, cross-drilled, micro-polished, and the counterweights undercut to make it lighter.

The rods can be checked for perfect center-to-center length, full floating pins added, and the whole rotating assembly balanced to within 1 gram.

You can have the camshaft degreed after installation to maximise it's potential.

I think you get the idea.

I will be using a used SVO block, but all the other parts are new and completely bluepeinted, including making the cylinder heads fully CNC'd and cc'd, ports matxched to the intake manifold, and the manifold runners extrude honed.

-Keith

[ May 08, 2002, 03:51 PM: Message edited by: 2FAST4U ]
 
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