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FFCobra Craftsman
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm presently building up a 351W roller engine.
Talked to the engine builder today who had basically no "recommendations" for oil type. He said to run the manufacturers recommended oil (10W30) ???

The last engine I had built was a 347 stroker.
Builder instructed me to use 30W non-detergent oil for first 500 miles for break-in. After break-in run 20W-50 oil.

New engine builder believes a 351W with hydraulic roller lifters have problems with the 20W-50 oil.
Something about air getting trapped in the lifters. A common problem with the 351W. Any truth to this?

I had no problems running 20W-50 oil in the 347 stroker.
It was also had hyd roller lifters.

I figure you guys would be my best source of info on this subject.
What oil have you used for break-in, what oil should I run on the track?

Thanks,
Ed
 

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Charter Member
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167 Posts
I would never run non-detergent oil in any motor, that advice really suprises me. Todays oils are so far superior to anything produced before. In my SBC 350 boat engine they recommend 40 wt or 25w40 mercruser oil, but after a call to mobil 1 they suggested using their 15w50 Syn. I would think the applications would be similar. ie: moderate to high engine speed and loads for long periods of time. Hope this helps.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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1,659 Posts
Oil weight depends on several factors . most important being engine clearences . Try 10-30 first and see what your "hot" oil pressure is ? If that is in the range you expect , good , lighter oil uses less HP and lubricates fine. I run 10-30W Valvoline Racing Oil in both my performance cars with good results , its a good compomise between quality and cost. With a roller motor I would go with a 'semi syn' oil , lots of good quality oils out there.
 

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858 Posts
I run Valvoline 20-50W racing oil in my big block F-5 and also did in my highly modified (7,500 rpm) '69 Z28 302, as well as numerous other applications in the past. I have never had an oil related problem.

It is my experience that whatever oil you start with, stay with - do not be switching from brand to brand to brand.

td
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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1,159 Posts
It's a good idea to first break it in on mineral oil, as the synthetics may, but not always, lube too good and give the rings problems breaking in correctly. But you want to run a detergent oil as the detergent keeps the dirt in the oil as to get it to the filter to remove it. HTH
 

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Premium Member
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9,689 Posts
On a new or rebuilt engine, I usually run a high quality conventional 10W30 oil, with the first oil and filter change after about an hour of run time. I will then refill with the conventional oil for about 3000 miles. Then I switch to Mobil 1 10W30. I used to like Castrol, but they changed their refining process so their synthetic oil is actually made from crude base stock, unlike most other synthetic oils. They claim it's just as good as a full synthetic and their refining process is cheaper, but they didn't reduce the price on the shelf.So for the money, I'll buy a sunthetic. Whatever oil you use, just do not use a Fram filter. I've seen some tests, where Fram was proven to be one of the cheapest filters made and their filtering ability was marginal at best. Motorcraft, Wix, and Purolater are all of about equal quality, and IMO, are the best value for the money. Also, do not put anything in your oil that is said to contain PTFE (teflon). According to DuPont, PTFE is not designed as an additive for luberication systems.

Added:

Heres the tech link, if anyone wants to wade through it all.
oil filter study

[ March 15, 2005, 10:50 AM: Message edited by: J Persons ]
 

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Premium Member
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6,408 Posts
Ed...Do a search on oil subjects on the Forum...seems to me there was a link to a web site that compared the characteristics of all the popular oil products....It was very enlightening...As a result of this link , I ended up with using Kendall GT-1 20w50....and a Wix filter...Seems to be a good all-around combination.
 

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My FMS 392 came with 20-40, as soon as I had the car on the road I switched to 20-50, to quiet the valve noise that was probably just the roller rockers but it bothered me.I'll stay with the 20-50.
 

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Tropically Twisted
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1,727 Posts
If you really like your engine, I would say use Amsoil 20W-50 once the break in period is over. I've run medium sized diesel generators (45-100kw) 24/7 for 60k hours with no problems and no smoke (changing the oil regularly). I've also run it in many vehicles and am amazed at the high quality and excellent service capabilities of it.

just my .02 ;)
 

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Senior Member
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4,494 Posts
The car engines for the past 20 years have fairly small oil orifices and closer tolerances, so higher weight oils are not recommended as they don't provide good oil circulation when engine and oil are cold. This is why you see the manufacturers recommending 5W-20 or 30 weight oils.
 
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