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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to plumb up all my speedhut gauges. I have an oil pressure sending unit and a oil temperature sending unit to install. I have a 302 and I see the one port near the fuel pump. My first thought was to install a tee or something here, but the bulb of the temp sensor is quite long. After reading some posts on it, I found the sandwich plate option looking good. I have the remote oil filter option installed, so it would be an easy install.

Questions:

1. Will I ever need an oil cooler living in Kansas? If so, do I get one with a thermostat?

2. In place of a sandwich, could i just install two tees in the connections to the existing oil mount? This way i could install the oil sandwich thermostat option for the remote oil cooler.
 

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IMO most people that install oil coolers do it for the look - not the function. Probably not needed unless you expect to race the car. My 347 is a pretty hot (hp) engine but the oil temp never gets over about 130-140 degrees. I like the look of the cooler but couldn't justify the added cost after all the other mods I've done.

As for the sending units, I installed the oil temp unit in a bung in my Canton oil pan and the pressure unit in the port beside the fuel pump (I needed a couple of short 1/4" NPT nipples and a 45 elbow to get it away from the oil filter.)

I also did not use the oil filter relo kit since the 302 has plenty of room for the filter in the stock location.

Randy
 

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agree with above .. cooler really not needed

hefleyrb : oil temp is usually higher than 130 degrees. check the accuracy of your gauges. oil and water temp are usually close to each other under normal driving conditions.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What if my oil pan does not have a spare bung? Is it acceptable to install in in the drain plug location?

Or do I just go with a sandwich plate?


thanks all!
 

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Oil pressure and temp sensors

I don't want to make this too complicated.

The stock oil pressure port on the drivers side near the oil pump is correct although some engine builders have two senders. One goes in the stock location and measures the output of the pump and one goes toward the end of the oil galleys to see how much pressure drop is inside the engine. This can indicate clearance issues such as too loose bearing clearances.

The oil temperature sender should be as near the oil pump pick up as possible and in contact with flowing oil. A tee on the oil pressure port would only read oil temps that are stagnant and not moving. You need to measure the oil after it has gone through the engine and picked up all the heat it is going to not after it has gone through the cooler. An alternate is to put a temperature fitting in the line coming out of the engine right after the oil pump to read the temp at pretty much it's highest temperature. A pan bung is best and second best is after the pump as the pump adds a little heat from compression. The line temp port is a lot easier to install than welding on a bung though. An oil temp gauge can be a valuable tool in engine diagnostics if you see it start to climp fast, it can indicate a bad bearing etc. and save the engine before it blows up.

If the sandwich adapter or the the thermostat has a temp sender fitting that should work too.

Ron McDuffie
 

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The port near the fuel pump is the oil pressure port. I assume you have a mechanical gauge for the oil temp, if you are using a stock pan, Forte sells an adapter to use the low oil level bung on the side of the pan as a temperature port. For a more accurate reading, try to keep the oil temp sensor as close to the pan as possible You also need to keep the sensing bulb in the flow of oil. Putting it in a T may work for pressure, but it's not so good for a temp reading.

If you install a front mounted air-to-oil cooler, you need a oil thermostat. The only type of oil cooler that doesn't need one is a water to oil cooler, such as came on the '80's Crown Vic police cars, or the '87/88 TBird Turbocoupes

I have a front mounted oil cooler, and my temps used to be in the 200 to 240 range in stop and go traffic. Once on the freeway it cooled down. I later installed a GT40 pan, and my oil temps dropped aprox 20 deg overall. The GT40 pan has a large flat surface area, and that tends to cool the oil more than the box type pans do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
My sending units are electronic actually.

I think I'll install the pressure sensing bulb in the pressure port and buy a tee for the temp sender to install in the line. I'll either go with the tee in the line near the remote oil filter or as the line exits the engine.

The only problem is I have no idea what size of tee to get since the remote oil filter was installed prior to me purchasing the kit. Any ideas?
 

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Getting hosed

-8 line is 1/2 inch ID and -10 line is 5/8th inch ID. You should be able to tell the line size by unscrewing one of the fittings and checking the ID of the fitting and the hose. -10 hose uses a 1/2 inch pipe thread usually. Thats the size of the fitting not the ID of the hose.

Here'a a link to Fragola who makes a lot of great fittings and adapters. Summit sells Fragola at a slight discount.

http://www.fragolaperformancesystems.com/14-23aluminumadapters/aluminumA-Nadapters23.html

Cheaper than a panoretomy bung insertion, but if you have a stock pan, put the temp sensor there with one of Forte's adapters.

Ron McDuffie
 

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Replace those rubber lines with braided stuff. Pressure fitting in the port on the engine, and the temp "in line" with the oil moving through the lines as stated before. Most coolers are not needed but if you like the look I would advise using a thermostat on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks all.

Anybody know what type of oil filter mounting kit I have? I need to know the size of those fittings and get a tee.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Scratch that, it looks like I have the Factory Five oil relocation kit. I just called the parts department and the brass hose fittings are 1/2" NPT to barbs.
 
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