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FFCobra Craftsman
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2,854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the car is put up on stands for the winter and like many of you that just won't do. As mentioned many times these cars are never complete. I had a smiths oil temp gage on the frits that was sent to Nisonger for repair (seems I put a hole in the end tube repair was estimated at $25) and I wanted to change out the rev limiter on my MSD box thinking this was the cause of my miss at 3,500-4,200RPM...

First thing I realize was the fact that removing the oil gage was a lot harder than re-installing. The mechanical unit has a line that goes out to the oil pan. big tube on the end with a 1/2 nut. The thing is big. My pedal box cover was nicely installed prior to body going on so this is not an easy removal... tried as I may there was no easy way to remove this line.. Why.. cause in assembly I was so worried about it being damaged I zip tied it to the frame and now can reach the zip ties to cut it lose.. I added more trouble by putting the wire loom over the main bundle as it passed through the pedal box as "protection" and of course electrical tape to the ends.. The thing ain't coming out..

So After looking at it long enough I took a pair of side cutters and cut the wire as it entered the foot box and as it came out near the gage...

Put the gage and the now disconnected end of the unit in the original box (we all keep these things right?) and sent it off to Nisongers...

Got a nice box in the mail on 12-19. The letter inside stated " I was told the end tube was damaged.. why did you cut it off? All fixed and try to leave the cutters in the tool box!" john..

The price was $30...

Morale of the story.. while you are building your car keep in mind that you may have to work on it and all that time spent making things real nice and safe still needs to be functional if it needs to come apart someday...

P.S.

I installed the MSD box up under the dash with the RPM chip facing the firewall.. a 30 second job changing out the chip turned into a 10 minute job due to poor planning a year ago... Will have to wait until spring thaw to see if chip fixed the miss!
 

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Premium Member
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6,413 Posts
Joe
I also have given a lot of thought to this over the 19 months or so that I have been working on the car.....
Now that the paint is almost done , and I'm getting ready to install the Powerdyne without the body on , I realize that there are a lot of little "attachments" , that should be in better locations....
In the course of building , I have rebuilt the motor twice , and repainted the body twice.....
(for various reasons)...
I would love to just get it done , and drive it a while...
Each time I located a switch , or relay , or hose , or whatever , I thought about whether it was better to hide it , or to show it....always a series of compromises....
I know that when that component fails , I'll wish I put it in a more conspicuous place....but then , there's the appearence to consider....
Believe me , I know and feel your pain. :confused:
 

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Registered
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366 Posts
Several other builders have shown me where they used Rivnuts rather than rivets so panels can be removed for future access and in some cases cutting out a portion of a panel and installing an access panel (also removable)during the original build.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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2,854 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I hate to admit this Bob but I used the rivnuts on the foot box cover only to know realize that with the body on the car there is no freaken way I can ever get to the screws to back them out...

great intensions and a lot of time spent only to miss the big picture....

the install of the new iol temp gage was very easy... new hole at back of fire wall low and near where it goes into my canton pan.. if I was smart I would have done that the first time...
 

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Uber-Geek
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1,606 Posts
Originally posted by Roger:
I like to build the dash with two eight plug connectors. Five screws and five minutes and the dash is out. Total access.
Roger
Roger: I don't know if it's good or bad, but you and I think a lot alike. Only I used 3 connectors - one for the gauges, one for the lighting, and one for misc controls (horn, turn signals etc.)

Oh, and since I have a quick release wheel, it comes *ALL* the way off.
 

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Charter Member
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842 Posts
Interesting… I tried to see some of these things coming. My dash is built to be totally removable – or – removable is sections. I put the trans tunnel on with nutcerts and the covering with Velcro. I am going to make the DS foot box top, removable. Mostly, I am seriously scared to button the whole thing up for the last time… :D
:D
 

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Daily Driver since 2/03
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995 Posts
Beware that the body sits directly on top of that footbox. I put in screws instead of rivets in case I needed to get to the clutch quardrant or maybe some wires. I don't think I can remove it without lifting the body some.
 
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