Let the fun begin!!
Nuke's 8189 Build
After 20+ years of desire (lust); and 3 1/2 months of waiting since I put in the order, #8189 arrived today.
Specs for the build (so far):
MK4 base kit, bare frame, cutouts, FFR vintage gauges, 3-link, bare sidepipes, tubular LCAs, Kirkey vintage seat upgrade
Engine - F4TE roller 351w, .030 over, stock crank/rods, SpeedPro H-E pistons, +19cc dish, coated skirts, Twisted Wedge 170cc heads, 58cc chambers, full roller rockers, Performer RPM Air Gap intake, Holley Street Avenger 670, MSD ignition
Transmission - TKO600 from Mike Forte
Drivetrain - Lincoln MkVII 8.8, North's axles, 3.27 Trac-Lok
Brakes - 2003 GT 11/10.6" with Hawk HPS(F) and HP+(R), Fox vacuum booster & Villager 1" M/C - probably upgrade to Cobra 13/11.65" soon
Empty Garage needing something ... hmmmm
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Stewart's barely got off the road thanks to a few low branches. Close enough for the dolly though!
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Mine is the last delivery for this load. The one under it and the THREE behind are repo's heading back to FFR!!!!
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Easy does it! You get the impression he has done this once or twice?
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Cheesy, but required!
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Welcome Home!
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Now comes the inventory and next week's 14+ hour days at work and the journey begins!
Specs for the build (so far):
MK4 base kit, bare frame, cutouts, FFR vintage gauges, 3-link, bare sidepipes, tubular LCAs, Kirkey vintage seat upgrade
Engine - F4TE roller 351w, .030 over, stock crank/rods, SpeedPro H-E pistons, +19cc dish, coated skirts, Twisted Wedge 170cc heads, 58cc chambers, full roller rockers, Performer RPM Air Gap intake, Holley Street Avenger 670, MSD ignition
Transmission - TKO600 from Mike Forte
Drivetrain - Lincoln MkVII 8.8, North's axles, 3.27 Trac-Lok
Brakes - 2003 GT 11/10.6" with Hawk HPS(F) and HP+(R), Fox vacuum booster & Villager 1" M/C - probably upgrade to Cobra 13/11.65" soon
Empty Garage needing something ... hmmmm
Stewart's barely got off the road thanks to a few low branches. Close enough for the dolly though!
Mine is the last delivery for this load. The one under it and the THREE behind are repo's heading back to FFR!!!!
Easy does it! You get the impression he has done this once or twice?
Cheesy, but required!
Welcome Home!
Now comes the inventory and next week's 14+ hour days at work and the journey begins!
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The obligatory staged shot with the steering wheel. I was dog tired but still having a howling good time.
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Hey Nuke,
Two thoughts from an ex nuke mm to another
1. You eventually will have to set your coffee cup down and use both hands
2. Remember 50/50/90 for nukes. Given a 50/50 chance a nuke will get it wrong 90% of the time....don't over think it
Enjoy the journey!
Two thoughts from an ex nuke mm to another
1. You eventually will have to set your coffee cup down and use both hands
2. Remember 50/50/90 for nukes. Given a 50/50 chance a nuke will get it wrong 90% of the time....don't over think it
Enjoy the journey!
In reply:Hey Nuke,
Two thoughts from an ex nuke mm to another
1. You eventually will have to set your coffee cup down and use both hands
2. Remember 59/50/90 for nukes. Given a 50/50 chance a nuke will get it wrong 90% of the time....don't over think it
Enjoy the journey!
1. Absolutely not!!! That cup was surgically attached at initiation. The only time it wasn't in use for the precious life fluid known as coffee was when some wayward blueshirt (or more often an even more wayward JO) had to be shown the error in their ways.:rankn-cpo:
Just look at the properly hooked index finger on this fine example:
2. I just applied the 50/50/90 rule last night when putting heim joints in the panhard rod. As is typical, it bit me. At least I learned that the knurled end has the LH threads.
Thank you and all those here for their service.
MMC/SS(ret)
Not much accomplished in the past week. I was working 14hr days during the week and had a funeral to attend on Saturday. But I did get pushrod length measured (the Comp Cams Hi-tech adjustable pushrod is AWESOME for this). I also got the body off the chassis and hanging on the body buck in the ceiling. The chassis is on the chassis buck (on casters) and ready for me to start fitting, marking and drilling body panels & frame for rivets.
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Well, it has been a while since I posted anything on here about my build. I have gotten some stuff done, but work and family issues have been slowing my build a bit.
I ordered a bare frame because I knew I was going to make several mods that would have had the frame getting re-coated anyway. I am coating the frame with POR15 when I get mods done, then a light scuff with red Scotchbrite then hammered silver paint.
First mod - I cut and re-welded the 3/4" by the power brake booster.
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Then I cut the Driver side diagonal brace in the trunk, added another piece between the front gas tank supports and ran a brace front-to-back about 1" inboard of where the upper portion of the gas tank is. This is to allow me a dropped trunk 5" deep and 17"x24".
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I also welded on 7/16-14 coupling nuts held from behind by Gr8 bolts, also welded on.
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I ordered a bare frame because I knew I was going to make several mods that would have had the frame getting re-coated anyway. I am coating the frame with POR15 when I get mods done, then a light scuff with red Scotchbrite then hammered silver paint.
First mod - I cut and re-welded the 3/4" by the power brake booster.
Then I cut the Driver side diagonal brace in the trunk, added another piece between the front gas tank supports and ran a brace front-to-back about 1" inboard of where the upper portion of the gas tank is. This is to allow me a dropped trunk 5" deep and 17"x24".
I also welded on 7/16-14 coupling nuts held from behind by Gr8 bolts, also welded on.
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I also did the Jeff Kleiner throttle pedal mod:
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You can also see I cut the top and front face off the 2x2 at the heel of the footbox and welded in a slanted piece (similar to Ryans88GT). I will bend the front of the floor aluminum to attach to this.
I decided to do a firewall forward mod. I went with 3". I will be running an FFR heater and a glovebox, either my own or one of Alex's. I attached the firewall below the 2x2 so that I can use that 3x2 space for a plenum for the DS & PS heat, or to run heater hose and wiring in.
I had to weld a couple tabs on the 3/4" tubes to support the top
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And using the FFR firewall as a template for the top radius, I cut a new firewall from .090" aluminum. I ended up botching my first one pretty bad trying to bend it on my little HF brake, so I scrapped it and took the next one to the local sheetmetal shop and they bent it for me in 5 minutes.
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You can also see I cut the top and front face off the 2x2 at the heel of the footbox and welded in a slanted piece (similar to Ryans88GT). I will bend the front of the floor aluminum to attach to this.
I decided to do a firewall forward mod. I went with 3". I will be running an FFR heater and a glovebox, either my own or one of Alex's. I attached the firewall below the 2x2 so that I can use that 3x2 space for a plenum for the DS & PS heat, or to run heater hose and wiring in.
I had to weld a couple tabs on the 3/4" tubes to support the top
And using the FFR firewall as a template for the top radius, I cut a new firewall from .090" aluminum. I ended up botching my first one pretty bad trying to bend it on my little HF brake, so I scrapped it and took the next one to the local sheetmetal shop and they bent it for me in 5 minutes.
3
I shameless stole Mike Kelly's Spark Plug Mod for my DS footbox. It takes nothing away from the pedal area and clears access to the back header bolts and sparkplug. It was a no-brainer decision to take it on since I am running a 351W.
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The combination of all these mods in the firewall/DS footbox had me fit for a straightjacket for a couple days, but it all worked out ... more or less. I will have to touchup some scraped paint in the engine bay, but I am happy with the results so far.
The combination of all these mods in the firewall/DS footbox had me fit for a straightjacket for a couple days, but it all worked out ... more or less. I will have to touchup some scraped paint in the engine bay, but I am happy with the results so far.
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