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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Received my Centerline wheels Friday. Went to mount the rear ones - perfect. Went to mount the front ones - won't!! They hit the Wilwood 6-piston calipers. Took them off and started to add washers to see how much interference I have. HALF A %$# INCH!! Talked with a Centerline dealer yesterday and he confirmed that Centerline wheels do not filt Wilwood big brakes. Now I'm screwed.

Question to the forum: Can I get away with using a 1/2" spacer on front? My lugs are extra long, so I can get adequate thread engagement.

Thanks
2FAST

[ October 28, 2002, 05:46 PM: Message edited by: 2FAST4U ]
 

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A 1/2" seems like an awful lot of spacer. I have 1/4" spacers on my rears because the Team IIIs interfere with the T-Bird caliper. Cragar (Summit P/N CRR-29102) offers 1/2" spacers that will probably do the trick for you.

Ben
 

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if you get a spacer properly made(custom made), not the cheap ones from the local discount store then you should be allright. i have a 3/4" spacer on my rear wheels. they are perfectly hub centric and they fit snug. i also have extra long studs to be able to accomplish this. the wheel needs to be supported by the spacer, not by the studs. the spacer should NOT be flat with 5 holes and a center hole. it should have a shoulder where the wheel rests. now the question is... is the wheel going to stick out of the body :mad: it might be better to buy new rotors with more backspacing. rotors are cheap from speedway, about 30 bucks. then the aluminum hat is about $60. after this you have to make a custom bracket to hold the calipers. with new rotors your wheels fit perfectly with no spacer and the wheels sit inside the body like they should. can you tell i've had that problem before??? :rolleyes:

luis lopez
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hotshot-

The rotors are not the problem. It's with the 6-piston calipers. They hit on the front because they are so thick. OD is not the issue. Changing the front brakes would cost me almost $1600. Far more than new rims.

I was planning on installing the body to check tire/wheel protusion.

I had a lousy weekend.

2FAST
 

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i know exactly what you mean about the calipers being too thick. that is why you offset the rotors a bit and then your wheel fits.

what rotors do you have on the front???
which calipers do you have in the front?? integra 6, 6R, prolite 6, GN III???

luis
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hotshot-

I have Wilwood 13" rotors with Superlite 6-piston calipers in the front. In teh rear, I have Wilwood 12.2" rotors with Dynalite II 4-piston calipers.

If I were to change the front (which is too costly), I would have to change the rear as the ratio (front to rear size) would be out of balance.

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are your front rotors 2 piece? if they are... the center piece is aluminum. that is the hat. if you get a hat that is 1/2" more towards the inside (center of the car) then you'll have the space that you need. the hat is about $60 bucks. then you will have to make the caliper brakets with that 1/2" more towards the inside. you'll spend about $200 and you don't have to change the actual rotor therefore not messing up the balance of your set up.

luis lopez
 

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Sorry to here about your wheel/brake problem. Which Centerlines were you trying to run, and what size?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wldhrse-

I bought Centerline Sundance 905's. 17x8 in the front and 17x9-1/2 in the rear



2FAST
 

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Just curious,
What big brake kit did you get? Fox or SN95? How did you spec out your wheels? Fox or SN95? What backspacing/offset on the front wheels? What spindles are you using? Fox or SN95? What Wilwood caliper are you using on the rear, part #? What are you using for an e-brake on that 9" rear?

GW
 

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Keith - Been there, done that. Exact same problem as my PSE wheels with my Wilwood Dynalites. See my post on this in the Brakes FAQ.

I had a heck of a time finding quality spacers of the correct size. I now have two sets of aluminum wheel spacers - one 1/2" that I got from Gordon Levy, and another 5/8" set I had custom made from Crowe Automotive (see here: http://crowautomotive.com/). Crow makes them custom at a VERY reasonable price, with only 2-4 day delivery. I'd be happy to let you borrow both sets to see what works for you - 1/2" was not enough for me.

I ended up buying Compomotive Halibrand replica wheels; they clear the calipers without a spacer, and the inner/outer rim halves can be changed to get the EXACT offset and width (i.e. fit) you need. The spacers pushed the front PSE wheels out too far, making the car look unbalanced, front/rear.

FYI - Crow Automotive Products, P.O. Box: 6294 Torrance, Ca. 90504. Phone: (310) 420 - 8873 Fax: (310) 532 - 0579. http://crowautomotive.com/

[ October 28, 2002, 01:46 PM: Message edited by: Barry Mattingly ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks to Richard Oben and Barry Mattingly. :D

Richard suggested that I change my front tubular LCA and IFS bracket to the pin-drive components. That will push the track line inwards 7/8". Add a 5/8" spacer, and the track then comes back to "0" change.

FFR2372-

I am using Wilwood's Mustang Big Brake kit (13" 2-piece rotors and 6-piston calipers). I bought the FOX spindle version (SN95 is also available).

The front backspacing is 5" per the FFR manual. Backspacing is not the problem. The back side of the spokes hit the front of the caliper. From what I understand, only the Cobra R wheels will fit without a spacer.

The rear brakes are a (another) custom Wilwood setup but with their standard Dynalite II 4-piston calipers. The rotors and mounting brackets are all custom designed to fit the Currie 9" rear end.

I'm using a Lokar universal e-brake with a special Wilwood clevis for the rear brakes.

2FAST

[ October 28, 2002, 02:16 PM: Message edited by: 2FAST4U ]
 

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Sorry 2fast....

and I thought the rears might be the issue.. never thought of the fronts!

hope an inexpensive solution is in the works!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just got off the phone with the distributor. I was hoping to return the fronts with the 5" backspacing, and order 5.5" backspacing. Add to that the 5/8" spacer, and I'm only off an 1/8" outward.

Bad news though. Wheels are not returnable. Will have to buy two new front wheels. Not a good day for me.

Thanks to everyone who offered help. Much appreciated.

The 17x8 with 5" backspacing (5 on 4-1/2 lugs) that I can't return are for sale to anyone using the stock setup. I will make them a very good deal. All they will need to buy are the rears from a dealer.

2FAST
 

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DAMN!!

That SUCKS!

I looked at those Sundances when I was first 'scheming' in my mind about the build. Have since gone with another choice, but they are still a damn nice wheel.

I hope you get it sorted out, I'd love to see those wheels on the final product.

Keep us posted!

Neill
 

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Okay, here's my stab at some solutions to your problem.

originally quoted by 2FAST4U
"If I were to change the front (which is too costly), I would have to change the rear as the ratio (front to rear size) would be out of balance."
Not entirely true. Your system would not be that far 'out of balance'. You can easily proportion out the rears with a proportioning valve. Maybe consider 12.19" rotors.

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originally quoted by HotShot
"are your front rotors 2 piece? if they are... the center piece is aluminum. that is the hat. if you get a hat that is 1/2" more towards the inside (center of the car) then you'll have the space that you need. the hat is about $60 bucks. then you will have to make the caliper brakets with that 1/2" more towards the inside. you'll spend about $200 and you don't have to change the actual rotor therefore not messing up the balance of your set up.
"
Good idea but unfortunately I don't see an exact match in the catalog. They do make a 'hat' that is very close though. The p/n is 170-0030. I believe the one you have is 170-1827 (some guessing on my part). The differences are as follows:

Offset ............ Current = 2.00" ... New = 2.50"
Clearance ID .. Current = 6.82" ... New = 6.69"
Bolt Circle ...... Current = 4.50" ... New = 5.00"

In effect, this pushes the rotor in .500". You can adjust the location of your caliper mounting brackets with spacers (from Wilwood). You also need to make sure the clearance ID (inside diameter of the hat) isn't a problem. As far as the bolt circle, I'll bet Wilwood would drill for 4.5" on request.

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originally quoted by 2FAST4U
"Just got off the phone with the distributor. I was hoping to return the fronts with the 5" backspacing, and order 5.5" backspacing. Add to that the 5/8" spacer, and I'm only off an 1/8" outward.
"
This seems like it would work but you would need to purchase new wheels. Another option to consider is to go to 4 piston calipers instead. They would be more than adequate.

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Bottom line is what's the least expensive option here? If I were you, I would contact Wilwood to see if they can help you and maybe do an exchange (calipers/hats/rotors are unused).

If you need any help, let me know. I do have a Wilwood catalog you can borrow if you want to look up the different components.

Good Luck,

Gene :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for all the research Gene. But I already ordered new rims. I hope to sell the ones that don't fit.

And I thought a house was a money pit :eek:

2FAST
 

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i say cancel the new wheels and go with 6T5 Cbra. the hats will work for you for minimal expense and you are not left over with 2 new wheels that now you need to sell and the buyer needs to find rear wheels like them to match.

just my opinion


good luck

cheers luis
 

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2FAST,

A house is no money pit. Now, airplanes are another story entirely. Just thank your lucky stars you don't own a high performance turbo-charged retractable gear airplane.

Ben
 
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