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Planning to build a shop at my new home for storage of my roadster and small boat. It will also be the building site for all of my future car projects. I am looking for ideas, suggestions, plan sites, whatever to plan this. Right now I plan on 24' wide by 36' deep. 16' door on one end, 8' door on the other end. I would like to go with a steel kit to keep cost down, but would like to have the finished look of wood or vinyl to match the house. Any ideas?

Thanks
 

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Go 26' on the width if you can, you won't regret it, I didn't. 26'x26'x12ft ceiling is what I did. If you can go 36' deep, DO IT.
 

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If you include a few windows, sink, head and a stove...I can get you at least $550,000. That's bigger than most of the houses I sell in Burbank!
 

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I don't know about the rest, but an overhead block and tackle on a rail would be great. If you run air lines (metal) along the walls you can put air outlets every 10 or 12 feet and hook the system to your compressor. You won't have to drag air lines all over the place that way. Scott
 

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If I were going to build a shop from the ground up, the one thing that I would stretch the budget for over anything else would be a two-post lift.

Other considerations are windows, a sink, and a good AC/heat solution. Also, pay a lot of attention to the electrical work, and make sure you have at least a couple 220-volt outlets

Make a list of all the things you want, and scratch off anything that can be added later.

[ January 13, 2004, 01:48 AM: Message edited by: Cobra3657 ]
 

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Mine is a 28X32 Gambrel roof with the full upstairs for storage, office, pool table, etc. I did the exterior in vinyl the same as the house and the garage door is the same color as the house, with the same hardware. I used 10'studs, and with the rat and sill plates, I have about 10'4" cielings which give me plenty of room for the lift. If you want to go with a lift, look into the roll up doors. they leave the over head completely free and don't block any of the 24 flourscent lights. Oh yea, it does have a bathroom w/shower under the stairs. 110V outlets 4'up from the floor every 4'. and 220 in three of the 4 corners. I can't figure out how to post a picture to these threads, so no photo. Email me if you want any pictures.
 

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Brown Truot,
Running the figures, your materials will cost you less than $10k. Thats in "treated wood" wall framing, and wood there after with James Hardie siding and trim. A vaulted "trussed" type ceiling will give you the headroom to 10'. My sons build these as "stock" items for builders and their homes. See eMail for further assistance
gerumpy
 

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Tom,
I'm glad I'm not in the phase you are in right now! Actually our new steel building is just about ready to be skinned.

Like you I researched until I was simply tired of looking. Also, like you I wanted to go steel. I finally narrowed it down to two company's; Miracle Truss or Kentucky Steel Truss. Both buildings seemed to be almost identical during the research phase. Kentucky was roughly $1,500.00 less so I "WRONGLY" picked them. The grief with the blueprints, which we nothing more than a freshman high school drawing at best, the mislabeled pieces, the steel columns that weren't labeled at all, the missing brackets that were supposed to be welded in place, etc., etc., simply was not worth the price difference!

It took my son and I four and a half full and aggravating days to put up the shell (40'x42'x18')
Once we finally determined what went where, what brackets had to be made and welded in place and which supplied and attached brackets were bolted in backwards, we finally started to make some serious progress. (We could have done in two days what took 4-plus if the building had been correct.)

We did go with an insulated roll up door. Pretty cool. No over head tracks to get in the way, leaving a wide open ceiling. As far as heat, we went with in floor heat. Uses a small boiler that is less than two feet square! No large forced air furnace, or heating ducts!

Although I opted for matching colored steel panels, it is easy to install the same type of siding, vinyl, aluminum, etc., on your home to a steel building.

You might even save more money this way. The roof too, can be done with shingles, but that will definitely raise the costs vs. steel.

All the suggestions from airlines, to power to putting in a bathroom are mandatory!

If a budget is a concern let me know. Had I known then..... I could have saved an additional $2,000.00 easily by purchasing separately rather than buying a "package"!

DV...Almost done!



[ January 13, 2004, 07:46 AM: Message edited by: DV ]
 

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OK here is an a thing that can add safety as well as strength to your shop. Use a 4' high concrete foundation wall. Raises the building/ceiling up 4' for a relatively low cost.

On the safety side the concrete holds up well to mounting things on it as well as as it is fire proof for welding use. Also good if you want to spray wash the floor, adds insulation value and strength.
You can buy a lower ceiling steel building and still have the height.

I did this on my last garage, which was a standard size garage, just up 2'-3'-4' or what ever you want. You will need to get a longer door of course.

Also slope the floor a bit to a floor drain near the doors.

Smoke detector/carbon monoxide detector. Shop sink, First aid kit, safety glasses stations at all power tools, fire extinquishers of the proper classes, and most importantly good lighting and ventilation/heat/Air conditioning.
Spot for fridge/microwave.
Good strong work bench, so you can load it with crap and never use it too!

Oh yeah, Lots of outlets.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

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Make sure you have overhangs on all sides. Really improves the look of the building. I have seen so many building without overhangs and just makes the building look cheap.

In floor heat is unbelievablely nice.

Rool-up door would be a consideration as well.

Insulation...you can get 4' rolls that go in whe the exterior metal is hung.

To get the look of wood or vinyl, you will have to sheet the entire exterior with osb board so you have sometiong to nail to. This will prove to be expensive compared to the metal siding.

Lots of lights...Lots of receptacles...Bare Minimum 100 Amp Panel

One other thing I would do is put in two 8' doors instead of the one 16'. Again is just a much nicer look and really not much more money. And make your doors 8' tall. I think the standard doors are 7'.

[ January 13, 2004, 08:08 AM: Message edited by: Hoosier ]
 

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Im with Grumpy. For what you're looking for, a wood frame garage is probably a better bang for the buck, particularly since you want to match the house. There are a zillion websites out there that have plans for sale; here is one plan that is close to the dimensions you're looking for: http://www.behmdesign.com/garageplans/676-12.html I just did a Yahoo! search for "garage plans" and came up with a lot of sites.

Paul's idea of a concrete base wall at the perimeter is good as far as welding and hosing, but it is quite a bit more expensive and relatively time consuming. If I were building one for me, I would put a 6" high curb around the perimeter of the slab (easy to form) and call it good.

I would also frame the walls with 2x6 rather than 2x4. Even though it adds 50% more material, having the extra insulation will be a big help on those sultry summer days and cool winter nights.

I would use OSB panelling on the interior walls. OSB was, up until a few weeks ago, higher than a kite, but the price has dropped by nearly half in the last month, so it's relatively economical again. Most of the price increase was due to some huge shipments to Iran...

Ditto on the roll-up door instead of the sectional garage door. They come in any height and are much better made. Also much more expensive.

You may not want too many windows, for security reasons, but put in lots of skylights.

Building one of these yourself is not tough - it's a LOT easier than building a Cobra. Home Despot has plenty of books.

Even if you don't have a big compressor now, run air lines inside the walls with outlets at regular intervals.

If you attach the interior OSB with drywall screws instead of nails, you can remove panels to add outlets or air lines later.

DV, console yourself with the fact that a carpenter costs around $400 per day. therefore, by spending and extra 2 days for two guys, you came out about even, and who's to say that the other building would have been much better? However, looking at your building, that wouldn't meet code anywhere in California because it's not braced heavily enough to withstand earthquakes. Hey, at least we don't get hurricanes or tornadoes. :D

Oh, one last thing. SEAL YOUR FLOOR. A good concrete sealer, such as one made by Paul Wolff Co. or Symons will protect the floor from oil stains and spills - even paint will just pop right off. It will look great 10 years down the road.

If a contractor were building this, I'd guess about $40-50k, depending on features. You can do it yourself for about half that.

All the best,
Tag
 

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If you don't need to worry about fire codes for the walls, see if any of the building suppliers in your area carry white pegboard. I used it on the walls in my basement shop - it's bright, never needs to be painted and you can hang stuff everywhere.
 

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:(

I had to droop almost 3K extra because of building codes! Seems our area has a wind rating of 120 mph and snow loads of 68"s ! Instead of four vertical steel columns we had to put in 7!

Earthquakes probably not, wind and snow? You betcha!
DV...Went back to Miracle Truss and did some educated searching--major difference. Happy with the building we have, just would have been a lot easier the other way. As it is we will have less than 16K in the building and the heating system.
Doesn't include wiring, equipment, airlines etc.

DV...Two man crew only. But I did have to feed him! ;)
 

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If 24x36 is what you think you need...go 30x40. I don't know how, but square footage gets eaten up so fast it will make your head spin. A friend of mine was going to build a 60x80, I told him to go 80x100, he thanks me every time we see each other....If you build it, they will come. There are a lot of diff theys out there that find their way into your once thought to be big enough "Man Palace". Insulate, insulate, insulate.
 

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BT If you have a 84 lumber in your area give them a visit.. standard 32 deep by 40 long with 12' ceiling and a bonus room above due to truss selection is 12,500. this is everything including garage doors, siding, insulation, and all wood to build.. dumps in your yard rady to build like a Cobra....
 

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Roll up doors can be expensive, so I went with a standard garage door with a hi lift kit. This puts it out of the way of lifts and other items.
 

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Here's mine. Just built it last summer, so it's not really done yet. It is 24' by 36' with an 8' by 12' garage door, and a covered porch.




It also has 570 sq. feet of bonus space upstairs. Just pitch up the roof, add the floor and knee walls and you won't regret it.

I finished the outside with vinyl siding and shutters to match the house. I agree with the concept of using a brick or concrete knee wall to raise the interior ceiling. I used a 2' wall instead of a 4' wall. I really love the 10' ceilings.


Visit my build site, I have a few more pics (that was a plug for my hit counter).
 

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Tony, I sure dig those exposed rafters. I'll keep it in mind if I'm in the area and dawn is about to break. Hard to find a good place to hang around these days. :D
 

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Bat, I already have an occupant using the rafters, but you are welcome keep him company. He moved in after the exterior was complete and before the door was installed. He's helping me keep the place insect free, but he sure is ugly.
 

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That is nice Tony!
Thinking about putting shutters on the windows to keep if from looking to much like a shop. ;)
DV...already wishing it were bigger!
 
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