[huckleberry]

I'm thinking about ordering mine soon but I have a few questions.

I do not want to use the 5.0 powerplant. In the long run it would take less money to make carb HP. I want to make sure it will outrun my daily driver and a stock 5.0 setup will not cut it.
Would you just use a painless wiring setup if you went carb?
Then it would be almost pointless to buy a donor car right?
Would need 5 lugs, 9" (8.8 wont hold up), tremec or world class.
Better yet t56 6 spd (anyone have this?)
I'm just trying to figure a direction to go.
I have to figure out my parts list so I can figure my budget.
Any ideas or experience would be helpful.
thanks

 

[Zulu]

Welcome Huck

Unless your daily driver is a Viper or souped up 911, the stk 5.0 donor will clobber it. 225 HP on a 2200lb car equals awesome acceleration. Quite a few cars in relative stk format that have beaten Vipers too, these cars are real quick - up to 130MPH

Many guys have converted to Carb's , and the Painless or American Auto Wire have both been used by FFR as Carb options for wiring.

T5 world class is good for 300Hp I think, T5Z good to around 400HP, the G force internals on a T5 equal 600HP. Tremec now have the T500 and T600 which are great boxes albeit a bit expensive. I have heard of guys playing with the T56 , but that is with Mod engine if I remember correctly.

Use the search function top right for more info on just about ANY question you can think of, someone here has most likely tried it , or better done it already.

Within last two days alone there are a few threads on Engine choices...

More than 400 HP gets very scary FAST, unless you know what you are doing..

Enjoy !!

 

[Need For Speed]

welcome.

 

[fredzo]

Welcome to the madness! I did exactly what you describe - I went with a 351W carbed. At that time F5 supplied a Painless harness. They've switched to another vendor since then.

The engine is hooked up to a Tremec 3550 and an IRS rear end. Given that, I didn't buy a donor - I just sourced the parts I needed from a boneyard.

Your budget will skyrocket if you go this route. I bought a crate motor ($6K), a new Tremec ($1.5K), used rear end spindles and a new pumpkin ($1.5K total).

You also have to add in the cost of gauges, front suspension spindles, brakes, driveshaft, etc., that you won't be getting from a donor.

It's definitely doable but it's gonna cost $$$.

 

[huckleberry]

My daily driver is a built 03 cobra an it will take a viper.
I'm thinking nothing real crazy cosidering the weight of the vehichle. maybe 400-450HP at the wheels.
I'm not trying to make a race car.
I just want plenty.
I don't know how accurate they are, but my deisel work truck runs pretty close numbers to the ones posted for a stock setup on the factory ford site.
I would rather spend a little more now than be dissapointed and have to tear it out and start over.

 

[huckleberry]

fred dunn
can it be done for $30k?

 

[Zulu]

If you do bodywork and paint and keep options down I'm sure it can be done for $30K.

Mine is pretty stk 351W expecting to see 375-400HP on the dyno when we eventually get there (according to engine builder)

IRS, Leather, Carb - I'm at $29k without Paint

 

[huckleberry]

thanks you guys

 

[2FAST4U]

You don't need a Ford 9" in these light cars unless you use 12-16" drag slicks. The cars are too light. I have a Currie 9" in mine and it's overkill.

If you want to go fast, sound mean, then opt for a big block crate motor. The 514 (625 HP) monster is killer. The 550 HP 460 is a better choice. Use the 8.8 solid axle or the IRS and you won't have any problem betting anything else on the street (unless it's another BB Cobra).

I have a 640 HP 503 BB Ford and believe me, the car is freakin' scary when I nail the go-fast pedal.

2FAST

 

[bill32]

Welcome. To address your questions.

1. Before you go Carb or anything else you need to determine emission and registration requirements for your state.
2. Don't know what your daily driver is, but the stock 5.0 HO 225 HP motor in the Cobra will outrun just about anything on the road. Power to weight ratio is 10 to 1. If you do a Ford crate motor (320-345 HP), that drops to under 7 to 1, more HP than you can stick to the road.

CARB vs EFI. Carbs are a pain to tune. EFI starts everytime, automatically adjusts for humidity, temperature, barometric pressure, etc. Lots of EFI options if you want more HP.
3. Benefits of the 5.0 HO motors (including one of the higher HP Ford Crate motors) is that they are off the shelf parts, bullet proof and don't require other drive train upgrades or mods.
4. $30 K budget - you will spend for a standard build 5.0 HO donor based, including all the normal upgrades for appearance, outsourced body prep, paint, wheels and tires about $26-$29k, including license, tax and registration.

Good Luck,

 

[Bob McLaughlin]

Welcome to the family! Start thinking about what rim / tire look you want to run, 15's vs 17's, it will drive the size of the brake calipers and rotors that will fit and tire compounds available.
A few members have installed 9"ers, but at 2000lbs the 8.8 will hold up fine. The FFR 3 link rear won't attach to the 9" axle housing with out a LOT of WORK if you were thinking of that option.
I'm not ware of anyone who has done those mods.
I'm running 100% non donor, 351W crate, carb 385HP dyno at 330hp rear wheels, tremec, 3:55's, 3 link, 15" rims, very happy with combo.
Bob Mac
FFR3981

 

[huckleberry]

thanks.
the big block does sound interesting. How did that affect your front suspension set up?
I live in Missouri(we have no emmisions standards)
Yes, my daily driver is heavy (3600lbs) but it has over 500rwhp. 400rwhp in a lighter car should be fun.
I've checked on a lot of other build sites and forums. You guys have got your sh!t together. I'm definitely getting a ffr.

 

[huckleberry]

bob
I'm thinking 17" aftermarket rims (black)
car all black
03 cobra mineral grey metallic stripes
all accesories flat black
no chrome on car at all
what do you think.
With 17" rims, what donor 5 lugs will work?
I know this depends on the offset and internal rim size.

 

[gratz]

hhhmmmm, your daily driver would make a great donor!!!

 

[huckleberry]

I'll sell it to you for $28k
My wife wants a vette

 

[PhysicsGeek]

Welcome to the world of Factory Five!!

The '03 Cobra does make a GREAT donor

See the links below in my signiture. There are 2 others that also have an '03 donor and another one looking for a donor(they are a rare find and $$$$). Just imagine your daily driver minus 1300 lbs What mods do you have for you '03 Cobra to get that power out of it?

You'll learn tons by reading posts on this forum. If you haven't seen a FFR yet, find someone local and check it out.

Later

 

[huckleberry]

mac cai
full bassani exhaust
smallest pulley
custom tune diablo chip
upr short throw shifter
a few other bells and whistles

Those of you with 03 cobra donors...
you have to get a custom tune because having less exhaust sensors on an aftermarket or homemade setup will screw your computer up. The car will idle funny and run real rich.
As far as this motor being bullitproof, its very false. Do not adjust the rev limiter and try to stay off of it when your driving. Something wierd with the 03s vs. the 04s.
Probably not necessary to get as extreme with yours. Good air in + good air out and a little smaller pulley for some extra boost + a safe tune should easily creat 400rwhp in your cobras.

I would love to see some of your cobras.
I am just finishing another custom house on the side which should net my 22 or 23 to get my project started by the first of the year. I also have to finish the jeep I'm building this month of my wife will kick my ass. No more stuff in the garage.

Anyone near Springfield Mo. I could visit with?
thanks,
shane

 

[grumpy]

huckleberry,
A Z06 or VIPER will smoke a stock 302W, but most of the time the drivers of a Z06/Vipers do not know how get the 0-60 time down.
A note on your Big Block, a FE bigblock with aluminum heads will not affect the handling on bit, no matter what some try to convey. The full iron 302/351 weighs within 37 lbs of the FE/ally heads. A 390FE PU engine can be built for the identical dollar as the carbed 302, to kill another misconception.
The biggest drawback on the big block is the SFI scattersheild/flywheel/clutch pak will be required along with a different tranny, a TREMEC500, BW ST10, or toploader, thats where the bucks are, over the $250 T5 buildable cores out there in most donors.
grumpy

 

[Cobra NJ]

Welcome to the insanity, Huckleberry.

Re your comment about 5 lugs and that therefore the 8.8 wouldn't cut it, be aware that FMS sells a 5-lug kit for the mustang rear end with new axles and brake drums. That's what I went with, and I'm happy at this point...although I still have precisely zero miles on 'er!

Mike Forte (Forte's Parts Connection) or Max at Five Star Ford can both hook you up on that. They're both sponsors of this forum and FMS dealers.

Get the FMS catalog to use while you plan your build. Indispensable. Also call Mark Reynolds at Breeze and get his "resource guide" catalogue, again indispensable.

Good luck!

AJ

 

[cobra-inv]

Welcome to the Club!

The guys above have given some good advice and for what it's worth, here's mine.

I'm one month into my build and it is going very well...beyond budget. Like you, I wanted more power and to move away from EFI. Not because I felt the 225 hp was insufficient (it's not), I just like neck snappin', ass swappin' power from a traditional-style power plant. I also wanted a brand new motor. I got it. I stroked the 5.0, put edlebrock 750 cfm, RPM intake, RPM heads, and matching RPM cam. She dyno's at about 430hp and 410lbs of torque. YESSIR! FFR will send you an AMerican wiring kit with your car. They'll ask you when you place your order "EFI or carb?" It's much cleaner than the stock harness route.

In addition to completely re-doing my donor 5.0, I have opted for just about new everything that came with the donor kit so next build I won't buy a Donor Kit.

I have learned in recent years that when it comes to well weathered leather, hot metal and oil, it's a matter of personal choice and MONEY. The direction you take will depend on thoise two things. I have a VERY detailed spreadsheet that catalogs EVERYTHING I have purchased with part numbers, prices and suppliers. If your budgeting your build, it's a must. Let me know if you'd like a copy and I'll email it to you.

Good luck and here;s to good friends