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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Test fit for the T56 and QT bell. This 'box is one heavy S*B, and I'll probably have to install the engine first and then come up from underneath with the gear box. Also took some measurements to see where the Transmission cross member would be. I had some concerns that some of the welds on the SFC's would interfere with the cross member mounting, but it looks like I'm OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I decided I wanted a removable upper horizontal piece of the core support, mainly because I'm old and feeble and I know the engine and trans is going to be in and out several times. I fabbed a pair of brackets that weld into the removable piece, and it is held in place by four button head ¼-20 bolts on each end. I also used steel nutserts from mcmaster.com.
I had to add a weld bead at the ends of the cuts to fill in the kerf. I used a piece of copper backing on the inside to so the weld bead would be flat on the inside and minimize any grinding I had to do.
Here's a photo of one of the brackets with the nutrserts installed


This is a neat little tool used for installing nutserts I got at mcmaster.com, I had one of the pliers type installers, but this one is much easier to operate when using heavy duty nutserts.


Here is the upper piece installed, I still have to do a little clean up on it prior to paint, so all that will be seen is the part line and the bolt heads.
If this proves to be a weak link, I have a ½" dia piece of .060 DOM tubing that I can use as a support behind the core support.
 

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If you use a Monte Carlo bar, that should make up for any weakness that could be there because it's held in place by the bolts.

I think you bought the mega bar, right?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #64
If you use a Monte Carlo bar, that should make up for any weakness that could be there because it's held in place by the bolts.

I think you bought the mega bar, right?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Yes, but I don't think they are in business anymore. The web link is dead. I just googled "mega monte carlo bar" and the only thing that shows up is the dead link. But it is a nice piece and fits perfectly.
 

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Nice bit of fab work on the core support, but I think you're overestimating the forces at work on the core support - particularly if you are running tower support braces.
I reserve the use of nutserts for those places where I have no access to the back side of the metal. I've used washer-head nuts and welded them in place for sort of a "captive nut" scenario.

Keep up the good work on your build!!
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Attempted to dry fit the T56 and a bare block, I'm using Ron Morris adjustable motor mounts, and in the stock position I couldn't get the transmission high enough to get a decent drive line angle. The transmission ended up pressing against the bottom of the trans tunnel. Tried the lower position and there was some pan to rack interference. So my only recourse is to raise the transmission tunnel. So I cut the trans tunnel out and will be adding some sheet metal to raise it about 1.5" I used some scrap metal I had laying around and clecoed them in place. With a little reshaping of the tunnel top, it almost fell into place.

 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
A little tin work

Fabricated the rear cover of the transmission tunnel from 18 ga cold roll steel. Cut out a pattern from some poster paper I picked up at Walmart, and hand formed it over it over a 4" piece of PVC into the general shape and then used a HF shrinker/streatcher to make the metal conform to the trans tunnel. This is the first time I have attempted to form sheet metal on a shrinker/streacher and IMO, it fit pretty good. It's temporally held in place right now, I still have to form some metal for the right side of the trans tunnel at the firewall. The transmission has some interference in this area.
 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
 

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Nice work as always John. With that metal shaping work, you're going to have to join Jalopy Journal's H.A.M.B. forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Thanks Ray, but you should see all the patches that didn't turn out the way they were supposed to. Right now it's a bit of trial and error until I actually learn how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Adventures in Powdercoating

I got an Eastwood powder coat gun several years ago, and finally decided to try it out. I get my powder from powder365.com they have an extensive selection of colors and types, much more than Eastwood. These are Fox type AC brackets done in a medium gray metallic, and a clear gloss powder over that. The metallic really pops in the sun.


And my wheels came in, they are Vintage Wheel Works V45, 17X8 and 17X9
 

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Discussion Starter #76
New Shoes

BF Goodrich G Force sport 2 in 225/45/17 on VWW V45 17X8 and 255/40/17 on VWW V45 17X9. The tread on the rears is 10" wide and may not work with a stock suspension
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
Almost finished with the transmission tunnel enlargement for the T56. I kept the stock top but raised it about 1 3/4", it's also widened at the front about 1". Compared to the original tunnel it almost looks like I could fit a Fuller 15 speed Road Ranger in there.


The block off at the rear of the tunnel was necessary because it was getting into the area of the one piece seat riser and I didn't want to cut it. Otherwise, there would be a cavity that would catch dirt, etc. In addition to welding in the tunnel on the inside, additional sheet metal was added to the underside weld area at the fire wall and the transmission tunnel to strengthen this joint.
http://imageshack.com/a/img924/7931/wb8Kzj.jpg

I was orignially going to use a Ron Morris trans mount, but it didn't have the adjustment I needed. So I found this Alston/TCP cross member that will work. The mount that bolts to the transmission isolator will have to be modified, I think it's made to fit a Chevy and the bolt pattern is too narrow to fit the isolator that I have.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
This was a test to see how these valve covers would look powder coated. The main color is medium gray metallic, with a gloss clear over that. The gray is about the same color that the body will be. I have three sets of these covers so hopefully I'll get it right before the final pair.



The engine and transmission are in for a test fit so that I can set the driveline angles and see how much room I have for the radiator and fans. I was originally going to use a RM adjustable trans mount, but it wouldn't work in this application, so I got a TCI cross member, it's much more robust, made from thick wall mandrel bent tubing and fabricated frame mounts. I'm going to use the RM adjustable engine mounts, set in the dropped position.

 

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Those valve covers look really good. I consider them to be one of the best valve cover designs that ford ever used, I have a couple of sets myself.

Are you aware that there are two versions ?

The first version (what you have) , has a thin area around the mounting bolts , and they are easily cracked or even broken off. If you use this version, check for cracks, and be careful when mounting the cover. As a temporary fix, ford even tried used spreaders around the bolts to help prevent breakage.

The second version has a reinforced, very thick area around the mounting bolt. No problems with the second version.

Looking forward to your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
The transmission cross member clamped in place. The end brackets will weld to the chassis, there is a billet clevis that welds to the tube, and then bolts to the chassis bracket. At this point, the main shaft is 3.2º down. Note the precision wooden transmission support.
 
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