Picked up the engine Friday, it's a Dart 363 from Fordstrokers.com. It has Trick Flow 205 11R heads, a custom ground cam, internal balance and lots of other stuff. Carb will probably be a Quick Fuel 750 DP
The heads are CNC ported and have 2.08 intake valves.
Carb is a Quick Fuel 750DP Those are 1982 vintage OEM valve covers, they won't fit with baffles, so I found some valve cover spacers that will raise them a little over an inch. According to the builder this engine combination is supposed to put out about 550 HP and 450 [email protected] 6500.
Canton screen type windage tray and Precision Oil Pumps standard volume race oil pump. These pumps are unique in that they support the bottom of the gearotor.
Canton front sump pan designed for Cobra kit cars. It's a little narrower than their other front sump pan. If you use the FelPro 1 piece gasket on a Dart block, the gasket needs some trimming at the #4 main. These gaskets have a steel center, so trimming it is a little more involved than with just a rubber gasket.
I needed an engine stand that would allow me to assemble the engine, bell and trans so I could insure everything fit as it should without having to install it all in the car. I found this engine stand at Speedwaymotors.com for pretty cheap. It originally came in two pieces and I didn't want that so I welded in some ½" X 1" rectangular tubing. I also ordered the caster kit for the stand. Painted the modification and it's the exact same color blue that Bendpak sent me to cover scratches on the lift. Speedway has the same deal that Summit has for shipping, spend $99 and shipping is free. So I bought enough stuff to get the free shipping. This stand is pretty heavy and shipping would have been expensive.
The Headers came in today, they are FPA headers, with a 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" step, 3" collector and ceramic coated. They are a little expensive but I've never heard a bad thing about them. They even stamp your name and the application into the flange. The step in the primaries is supposed to have a positive effect on torque production.
Another engine shot. I really like these Holley carb heat isolators, they are only ¼" thick and do a good job of keeping the heat out of the carb. The aluminum plate usually requires a little trimming, depending on application.
The suspension finally came in, Bilstein coil overs at all four wheels, fabricated upper and lower A arms, heavy duty spindles, Wilwood brakes at a four wheels, and a fabricated full floater 9" rear end. Here's a teaser pic.
I got it all from streetortrack.com, he claims they are built up by a NASCAR shop, and a lot of components are available from speedwaymotors.com. the rear is not cambered. Cambering the rear end puts a lot of stress on the axles and makes them a regular replacement item. I didn't need a full floater, but I took it because of the brake and bracket package that was offered with it. One of the neat things about it is it has internal oil seals on the axles, to keep the lube in the center section. The wheel bearings are massive and are lubed just like a front wheel bearing, the grease is packed in by hand.
In my quest to get rid of most of the '70's shiny bits, I had all the dash trim hydro printed. They did all the dash trim, including the heater and A/C control panel. The interior will be charcoal gray with red stitching on the door panels and seats to match the dash trim.
Wanted to add a little bling to the top of the engine so I fab'ed up these heater tubes from some 5/8" stainless tubing. I'm looking for some way to get rid of the rubber hose that I had to use to get around the serpentine bracket. There's not enough room to use steel braid in that area.
Not much, I've had to slow down a bit due to some health issues. I've been buying a bunch of parts so they will be ready to install when I can get back to it.
Tinman subframe connectors in for a trial fit. These fit pretty well, just open up the end of the frame extensions, slip the SFc's inside and plug weld. The rear is just some stitch welds at the rear torque box. I'm also going to weld in some tabs at the center of the SFC's, to connect them to the floor where the seat pan is welded into the floor. These will be now be removed for painting prior to welding them in.
Nice...I wish I could flip my car on the side like that...would make it easier to do some of the welding I have coming up and get the underside covered with a bed liner type of product.
Might have to see how much it would cost to buy a rotisserie.
Nice...I wish I could flip my car on the side like that...would make it easier to do some of the welding I have coming up and get the underside covered with a bed liner type of product.
Might have to see how much it would cost to buy a rotisserie.
This one will be for sale just as soon as I get the underside painted, and the brake and fuel lines in. It's an Auto Twirler, with a couple of upgrades. I ordered it in bare steel because the only way other way to get them is in powder coat, and that was out of my budget. It's been primed and painted lime green:smoke:
We just got my wife's 1956 Ford Ranch Wagon resto-mod back from the restoration shop. The front crossmember of the chassis was rotted out with rust. From various forums I have learned that this is a common problem. You can't find an acceptable replacement from a junk yard or a parts dealer...
This is going to be a long term project...mainly because I tend to be a slow worker and I'm pretty much starting from scratch with this build.
My basic plan is as follows:
Body modification will be very limited...going to shave the drip rails because I think it's a cool look. If anyone has...
I have a buddy that has a 1957 t-bird does anyone have experience with the operation and adjustment on these transmissions?
It seems it's a three speed but in regular Drive mode it only uses 2nd and 3rd gear. If you put it in L it uses the first gear.
His issue is if he puts it in Drive that...
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