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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not 100% sure about a few things and am hoping someone may know.

First off, I am wondering if I have the clutch fork assembled correctly. The fork is sitting on the pivot ball as expected. Here are a couple pictures.


20120601-Cobra-0070 by akpingel, on Flickr


20120601-Cobra-0069 by akpingel, on Flickr

Questions:
1. Does it look like the bearing is in correctly?
2. Is the pivot ball is set too high? It does feel like the fork is right against the pressure plate. Does anyone have the std height of the pivot ball? I left it as assembled by Quicktime.
3. Any other concerns I should note?



Next: this part of the block needs to be clearanced in order to fit one of the bellhousing assembly bolts. This is directly above the starter. This is FYI for any other Coyote builders using a Quicktime bellhousing.


20120601-Cobra-0071 by akpingel, on Flickr

Lastly (? #4); I am assuming these are extra parts? I looked online and it appears one matches a part used on older mustangs as a spacer. Do I need one of these? I am using Forte's hydraulic clutch assembly.


20120601-Cobra-0072 by akpingel, on Flickr



Thanks,
Alex
 

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Hi Alex,
Call my cell 781 248 8946.
 

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akpingel,

I'm getting ready to assemble my Coyote, centerforce clutch, QuickTime bellhousing, and TKO 600. I'm a curious about how to determine the pivot ball height. What did you wind up doing?

Thanks in advance...

Kevin

Mike Forte is the MAN!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi I am out of town now but when I get home tomorrow I will see if I have notes on what I set it to. I did cut about 1/2 an inch off the bolt as it was too long. From there I did trial and error to get the feel right. I would assemble everything, check clearances, and press the fork in and out, check disengagement and clearance, disassemble, repeat until i was happy with everything.


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Hi I am out of town now but when I get home tomorrow I will see if I have notes on what I set it to. I did cut about 1/2 an inch off the bolt as it was too long. From there I did trial and error to get the feel right. I would assemble everything, check clearances, and press the fork in and out, check disengagement and clearance, disassemble, repeat until i was happy with everything.
+1.

You need to leave a little slack on both ends of travel, so the fork can both release the clutch + get pressure off the throwout without running out of travel.

You're going to need more room on the transmission end so you can adjust for clutch wear without running out of travel.


HTH,

Mike
 

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I'm not 100% sure about a few things and am hoping someone may know.

First off, I am wondering if I have the clutch fork assembled correctly. The fork is sitting on the pivot ball as expected. Here are a couple pictures.

Your throw out bearing is not installed correctly. This is a very common error. The "fingers" should be under the flange of the bearing.

 

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Found this on another current clutch thread:

"The clutch fork should be perpendicular to the input shaft (parallel to the clutch pressure plate) at half pedal travel."

Seems reasonable as a good starting point to adjust the pivot ball to achieve this then trial end error it from there.

Done a lot of Mustang clutches and trannys in my life but this is the first time using an aftermarket bell housing with an adjustable pivot ball. Uncharted territory for me and I have never paid close attention to the fork alignment. In the past its been just assemble it and go with the fixed/non-adjustable pivot balls on OEM bellhousings. Oh well, at least I can ask here and get good advise!

Thanks
Kevin
 

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Also, be sure the Quicktime block plate starter hole matches up properly.

Some of them have to be clearanced a bit to allow the starter to engage properly.

This is a picture of the Quicktime block plate next to a factory block plate. It shows how much needed to be ground off. I got a factory block plate from a Mustang shop for $19.00. It was worth it.



Much easier to do that before you install the engine. :)
 
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