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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am making plans to build a Cobra. My plan is to put an all aluminum 468 ci small block in the car. I see that people are putting everything from 302s to 514s in the cars. What is the best all around engine for a little crusing, a little road course racing, a little running around?
 

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You will get 100 different answers from 100 different people so here it goes!

Personally, I would buy a 351windsor and bore/stroke it to 427=the magic number. You will have around 518 to 550 h.p. and save more than 150 lbs. over a big block. Big block power with small block weight!

These cars are so light that it doesn't take much to make them run ahead of most anything around period.

See what the other 99 have to say!

JQ
 

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I tend to agree with JohnnyQuest. Its hard to beat a Winsor and there is aftermarket from here to Chistmas. I put a stroker Winsor into a Manta Montage and the word "scary" would describe the performance! Keep in mind that you can do alot with a 302/5.0 and save a bag full of money. And with the price of gas these days, passing everything but a gas station is not quite as fun as it used to be. Also consider: how fast is fast? Do you really need (or will you use) the performance of the 302, let alone a 427? Just food for thought.
 

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Road Course racing - I'd go with a supercharged, fuel injected 331 ( stroked 302 ) and skip the big dollar aluminum big block.

You'll have light weight, better weight distribution, and 500hp pretty easily.
 

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I'd go for a 351, built anywhere from mild to wild. You could also start with a 302 and have plenty to smoke 'em when you drop the hammer - but the 302 doesn't have to be squeezed quite as much to pony up the power.
 

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OK, I'll be the disenting vote here. I would opt for the aluminum 460 block and bore it to 4.50 (4.36 is stock). Get a destroked crank and make it sing to 8000+ RPM. Get a set of the new Super Cobra Jet aluminum heads with the revised valve angles, a hot hydraulic roller cam, and Wayne's or TWM's stack injection syste. All the power and torque of a big block, and the weight of an iron block SB.

This setup is not cheap - about $20K for the engine.

2FAST
 

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OK, I'll ask the stupid question-what is a 468 "small block". I think that 2FAST has the correct answer with the 460 BIG block motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You can get 468 ci with an aluminum Dart small block. 4.185" bore and 4.250" forged Eagle crank. Now I have a tougher question, what heads do I use on the engines that have been suggested? I was looking at either the aluminum Dart 225, aluminum AFR 225 or the aluminum canted valved Kaase heads if i go with the 468.
 

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May I suggest a 360 sprint car engine. You get a REAL racing engine with Hilborn fuel injection, dry sump oiling and very high rpm capablility. Buy a old one that needs to be freshened and rebuild it with low compression pistons, 10.5 to 1 works well on pump gas. Machine the injectors to accept conventional fuel injectors and add a engine computer. If you want an aluminum block buy a repaired 410 block and replace the iron 360 block with it. If you use the 410 block you would have to fabricate the engine mounts and an adapter for the transmission.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Steve,
I like what your doing. I had thought about a 410 sprint car motor. However, I want to be somewhere between a doner 5.0 and an all out race motor (but closer to the race motor). I also want to stay away for dry sump.
 

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How about a 351 stroked to 408? This keeps the piston speed down a little from the 427 small block and you could push the rpm to around 6000 without breaking stuff. With an aluminum block your weight would be the same as a 302. If wou want more than the 550 hp available from this combo you could lower the cr and add a Kenne-Bell to take it well above 600 hp or... Scott
 

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Hi,
I like the Dart block with 4.125" bore and a 4" or even a 3.75" stroke to keep a better rod / stroke ratio. Better cylinder fill, more RPM and plenty of power. I'd use either AFR 225 or even Yates heads. While I'm at it I'd install a dry sump to insure oil at 8000+ rpm.
Mike Forte
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, I have 2 votes for dry sump. I think I will seriously consider this option again. I apprecite the input. I might look at the stroke issue also, but I still want to bore it to at lease 4.165 (.040 over). This is the first post I have made and it is nice to be able to bounce ideas off of people.
Mike, I took a look at you web sight. do you sell 6 speed transmissions?
 
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