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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having problems getting the air out of my front brakes. I have a '93 Cobra MC with a stock Fox booster, Villager remote reservoir. Rear brakes are T-bird Turbo Coupe, fronts are 96 Cobra. I'm running separate circuits for the front and rear (no proportioning valve). I started with bleeding the rear and that went fine - getting clean fluid with no air. Then I went to the right front and I am get bubbles that won't quit. There doesn't seem to be any leaks but we just keep pumping fluid through it and the pedal is not getting any harder & the bubbles keep coming. I noticed that there are also some bubbles coming up in the MC reservoir when the pedal is depressed. The front lines do go higher than the MC so maybe that's the problem. Do I need a power bleeder? Or do I need to raise the rear to get the MC level during bleeding? I did bench bleed the MC prior to installation. Any help is appreciated!
 

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i had similar problem,could not get any pedal out it .
double check front calipers are on proper side,it stumped me for a week relised bleeder coming out bottom of resivoir
 

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How about a picture of your front calipers? The bleeder on standard Mustang brakes actually points down which is counter intuitive. If you have them on the wrong side it will look like they are pointing up, but the internal plumbing requires them to be the other way.
 

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ive had good luck bleeding all my several brake setups, which has eventually entailed replacing every brake line and caliper in the car.

some of the mustang calipers require being turned upside down and tapped to bleed.

if your fitting are not all tight, air could be getting in somewhere at a joint.

lots and lots of bleeding.

i do it the old fashioned way with a stick and a little bottle with a tube. never had a problem, but its a bit tedious.

james
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here are some pics
Right Side

Left Side

Master cylinder/Booster

This is something that I rigged up to powerbleed the front lines. Low pressure in the reservoir to force fluid (and air bubbles)out quickly. I've never done this before so I don't know how much pressure to use. Does the pedal have to be down when this is done or just leave it up?

Thanks!
 

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I had nothing but bubbles on my speed bleader. I went back to the old school two man method and it worked great.

Good Luck!
Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My power bleeder rig worked! I put about 5-6 psi in the reservoir and opened the bleed on the right front and got a blast of air & then clean fluid. Tried it on the left front and got just a few bubbles. I re-bled the rear with this method but they were already good. My pedal is rock solid with no leaks that I can see. (I even used the infamous cheap flaring kit from Autozone).
 

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need to see the back side of caliper to tell if upside down, when i reversed mine it literally took 10 minutes to bleed brakes to get a hard pedal.
i even bought power bleeder from summit and had no luck
 

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Excellent result! That's got to be a relief. Next question, why is your clutch cable adjusted all the way out?
 

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What a timely post/thread... Are you kidding? 87-93 calipers mount with the bleeder down? It's been driving me crazy for a week trying to get a good pedal. I've got weak resistance to a very hard pedal which slows the go kart but not in a convincing manner. I'll switch the calipers and see. Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mark Reid:
I don't have the engine in yet so my clutch cable is just in there to make sure that there is room for the reservoir. Yes - I'm relieved to get the brakes behind me. One of those moments to remember.

Duchhead:
The bleeder is on the top of these calipers and is visible in both pics. These are dual piston calipers from a '96 Cobra - they should stand this thing on its nose. Thanks to everyone for their help!
 

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Just like Duchead's post.... Swapped calipers, 10 minutes of bleeding and I have NORMAL brakes. What a find. Thanks.
 
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