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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to pull my motor and refresh it with a rebuild kit. I am just going to have the block boiled and honed. (hopefully) It only has 100,000 on it. I will reuse all heads, intakes , etc.

I would like to add a little bigger cam into it, but keep everything else stock. I also see that the 1993 cobra had a cam with .485/.485 total lift with a 118.5 lobe. Is this as far as I can go?

I want to stay under $200 for a stick. I would also like to stick with the stock valve springs if possible, if not oh well.

This is just for about 3-4 years until I start my build.
 

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Banned
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7,701 Posts
I totally rebuilt my stock 5-oh, but changed only the cam, to an E303 cam. The intent was to be able to upgrade all the top-end stuff later, without having to pull the motor. My plan worked, as 1 year later, I dumped money into heads, intake, 1.7 roller rockers, bigger MAF/TB/Fuel Pump/Injectors, etc.

The E303 cam combined with the 1.7 roller rockers from Crane (originally built by Crane for the 93 Cobra motor) will work just fine with stock heads. When I did my upgrades, I bought Powerheads (basically ported and polished stock E7TE heads with bigger valves), and the combo worked just fine with the stock forged piston, pushrods, and lifters. No clearance problems.

Richard Oben of North Racecars calls this the "North Racecars Special". It's been done to several cars here in the midwest, and typically yields around 280RWHP with the combo I have in my sig line.

HTH,

Greg
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks,

I have been researching and found the FMS B303 and the FMS E303 (cost efficient and stock acceptability), now I guess to choose.

I just want it to be able to accept factory computer programing.

As well as deciding if I need new valve springs with either.
 

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For what it's worth, I'm using the EEC-IV as-is with no changes whatsoever, even after all the bolt-ons.

-Greg
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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You didn't mention any short/medium term upgrages. If you are going to run stock for the forseeable future there is no reason to spend money on a cam now. It won't buy you anything. Spend it on something else. That cam will take you a long way.

Later down the road if you start making major performance upgrades such as new heads, etc. the cam is a very easy change with the engine still in the car (done it twice).
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, more thinking in place is that I am going to wither make a 347 stroker with the donor, us a 289 4-bolt, or just go with a 427W. So, a cam now will be just for fun. It would be used as a table weight later on. Thanks for the info guys.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Understand haveing the budget but rethink useing the old springs. Even if the cam accepts stock springs. After 100,000 miles they become pretty weak and could cause problems. At least psi check them before install.
 

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Registered
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I can't say this often enough it seems.

Get springs that match the cam you pick. Even stock springs that are brand spanking new are too weak for after market cams. You could easily float the valves, loose power, and possibly damage the engine. It's simply not a place to save any money.

I'd go for something with more duration and only slightly more lift than stock. The stock heads are done flowing at around .450 anyway.

The Ford Racing alphabet cams would not be my choice with stock heads. I'd want more exhaust duration than intake ( dual pattern ) by 6 to 8 degrees and around 114 lobe seperation.

You'll only gain a little bit of power and simply move that power higher in the RPM band.

I pretty much agree with Matt for the most part. I'd just leave it and change it later.
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, good advice. I have looked into the B303 or E303 cam and the FMS single 110lb springs matched to them.. While I have the engine apart I am going to mildly port the heads and intake. I am still out to lunch on wether or not to use a new cam. Since the stock lift is about.445 i/e I would think the heads should be good for a bit more than .450, but I am not a heads expert. Just a thought.

DOes anyone think that I could find a set of GT40p heads and GT40 intake at a junkyard for super cheap?
 

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What Country You From?
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463 Posts
There was an awesome junkyard rebuild in CarCraft magazine (I found it online - I don't subscribe to carcraft)

It discussed several "stages" to the rebuild. Take a look at the article. It included results from each step up.
 

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section 8
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Dont bother with the cam until you do the heads and intake !!! it might go slower .The restriction is in the heads and intake . Leave the stock cam add 1.7 rockers and a good intake first. I like the Ford X cam fits with stock pistons and 1.6 rockers if you really need to swap the cam first . The powerheads wont suck either I home ported a set of e7 heads with stock valves added the X cam with a stealth intake and carb that car @3k lbs runs 12.20.The power heads have a real port job and real valve job . So they should be even better Bob
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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24,729 Posts
Have you seen the Thumper heads?
http://www.hunterstyle.com/thumper/index.php
Seems like a super way to add a bit of power w/ virtually no headaches as to what matches what.they have a cam combo too and the prices are right!
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am going to keep stock heads and intake. I am just going to hollow them out some. From FMS the X cam is bigger than I want to go.

I just do not know for sure yet. I may wait to purchase a cam to see if the heads are ported enough.

When I do my real motor I am going with AFR all the way.
 

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I can 2nd the Powerheads. Nice heads for cheap! I know you are staying stock for now, but for $850, they are great heads. Just thought I'd share.

-Greg
 

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The Never-Ending Builder
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5,329 Posts
When I do my real motor I am going with AFR all the way.
I guess the big question for me would be, Why are you spend money Twice? Just run around with the old motor in the Cobra, and hide away the money for the "Real Motor" till you have enough to build it! Gives you a chance to shop and plan a little more.

Hank
 

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Charter Member
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832 Posts
Be careful, this is what can happen if you fool around with your "Donor" too long:



The only thing left donor is the block which, if I had to do over with, I would have replaced with a Dart or World products. As is, 450 hp to the tire and 455 lb ft of torgue.

Regards,

Jerry
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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4,257 Posts
Originally posted by Gen. Cobracus Commanderus:
I am going to keep stock heads and intake. I am just going to hollow them out some. From FMS the X cam is bigger than I want to go.

I just do not know for sure yet. I may wait to purchase a cam to see if the heads are ported enough.

When I do my real motor I am going with AFR all the way.
I've gotta ask Bob's question again. Why do all this work and use the stock intake and heads, where all the restriction is? I have to guess that you're porting them yourself, so it's only your time involved.

I would expect that you can find a complete Explorer 302 for around $1k (what I paid for mine) and avoid the rebuild altogether, get the heads and intake in the process because they're already on the explorer and just put in a cam and the mustang conversion stuff that you already have. It's a tried and true method for us guys who are either too cheap...or too scared to build a "real" engine.

With this path, you can sell your existing mustang short block, some of the explorer parts (timing cover, water pump, etc) to recoup a big part of the costs.

This also allows you to separately build your "next" engine. When that's done, sell the explorer setup to another Cobra guy. With very little extra (bigger mass air) you'll be nearly at 300hp and it'll run forever.
 
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