[2savage]

Bought new front rotors and thought I'd just put them on last night. NOT! Most of the assembly came apart OK but the inner bearing is well seated and won't come out. I did not want to force it and cause damage and am sure there is a technique to use. Do I need a special tool? How do I put the bearing and inner seal into the new rotor ?

 

[Brendan]

While you're doing this, you might just want to replace the bearings. I got inner and outer for both fronts for under $30 at Autozone, popped the old ones out with a screwdriver. I'm assembling this weekend, so I'd be curious to see if anyone has any tips here too.

Brendan

 

[travissmithoh]

I plan on replacing my wheel bearings this winter on my future donor. I found this site helpful:
How to replace wheel bearings (RWD)

Step 8 says, "Now we need to remove the bearing races from the hub. Take a punch with a flat narrow tip and place it on the back of the race. Most hubs have gaps in them to expose the back of the race to make removal easier. Tap the race out, alternating from side to side so it comes out evenly and doesn't get cocked in the hub. Once it's out, flip the rotor or drum over and do the same for the other race."

I hope it helps you get it apart.

Trav

 

[2savage]

Thanks Trav. I think this is helpfull. It sounds like this is generic advice since the outer race is tapered and has no rubber seal; (the grease is retained by the outer aliminum cap). I'll try giving it a few taps tonight.

 

[Bob McLaughlin]

I've used the old race and a hammer to evenly tap in the new races. It helps put even load on the new race and prevents any damage using a punch.
Bob Mac

 

[Brendan]

What about the gasket that goes between the brake sheild and the spindle? I just remembered that these were a foam of sorts on my Spindles, and that I don't have a replacement. Can you just use a little RTV, do I need to pick up a replacement,or do you even need to worry about it?

Brendan

 

[2savage]

A previous thread (yesterday?) discussed the brake shields and consensus was to dump them unless you drive in the rain a lot.

 

[Brendan]

I'm keeping mine because they're in good shape (cleaned and painted nice) and figure I might as well in case I end up racing in the rain.

Brendan

 

[2savage]

Slightly OT; will drilled and slotted rotors help in the rain if I have no sheilds?

 

[treed]

My gaskets were deteriorated beyond use also. Ford dealer said no longer available from Ford. Went to local hobby store and purchased thin sheet of dense foam material. Used tho old gasket to trace and make new ones. If Ford engineers put the cover there, I feel more comfortable re-using it. It's not like the moose balls issue for the weight attached to the front of the rear pumpkin where the design function does not exist on the cobra.

 

[mikiec]

The easiest way I have found for removing the inner wheel bearing is this:

Remove the outer bearing. Install the rotor back on the spindle, install the spindle nut. Now slide the rotor forward until the bearing catches the spindle nut. Now pull hard. No muss no fuss...removes the bearing and seal in one operation. Been doing it that way for almost 30 years.

Mike

 

[2savage]

mikiec, does this work if the spindle is not attached to anything? I would have thought that having a nice heavy car to pull against would be required

 

[cscott67]

2savage, yes it helps to have the spindle attatched to the car! Otherwise, get a smaller prybar and pry it out, Scott

It will ruin the seal, but they should be replaced anyway.

Mikiec evidently learned that trick from someone who works on cars for a living! ;o)

 

[Tim Cronin]

I used black silicon rubber to replace the brake shield gasket. I also spent the few extra bucks for Timkin bearings as opposed to the cheaper imports
TEC