Factory Five Racing Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
And with it, I close the "brains" chapter of my build. Not to be underestimated, it takes a lot of planning and attention to detail but it sure is satisfying seeing it complete...it now DOES feel like a car, all switches work, I got A/C, courtesy lights, phone chargers, etc.....

I married an ISIS system, with a Painless EFI harness and Vintage Air A/C controls. I also wanted to keep the function of the EFI as stock as possible, so I have WOT and startup A/C control, fuel pump function via the ECU, etc.

Anyways...here are some pics...hoping it inspires others that might be frozen to move on to this stage of the build...I know I was!







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)






 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Congrats!

Mind sharing a little more info on the blinker switch? A stalk glued onto an On-Off-On switch?

Whats the button at the end of the stalk wired to do?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,042 Posts
:weight_lift: Wow, way to go, that was alot of hard work fitting all that in and figuring out the bottom panels. I did something much simpler and that took forever, well done, great craftsmanship!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks Dave!

Ryan, the ISIS system has a neat (digital programmable) self canceling turn signal mechanism, and also a high beam/flash to pass dual purpose input. All you need are momentary switches to activate those.

Not contempt with slapping paddle or plain pushbutton switches on my dash, I started to look for a solution. I've always liked Russ Thompson's turn signal, but it wasn't for this application. So I asked Russ to sell me only the lever with the pushbutton at the end.

I then found a suitable DPST momentary switch on Mouser.com, fabbed up a mount for it to exit the dash just like a regular turn signal stalk would and voilá. The pushbutton at the end serves the high beam/flash to pass function.

EDIT added a youtube video of these features...so much easier to explain this way.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,159 Posts
Looks great!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Nice. I have been monkeying around with a timer circuit and wanted to make a switch for long vs short cycles..the brake switch is what I was overlooking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Nice job!

I see the Weatherpack connectors you used for a quick release, but what are the other ones?
Thanks.

Those connectors, I don't know what they are called, but they came with a "dash connector kit" option of the ISIS system.
 

·
Out of Time
Joined
·
1,524 Posts
Thanks.

Those connectors, I don't know what they are called, but they came with a "dash connector kit" option of the ISIS system.
Ok, thanks.

I ran across some circular connectors online.. that might do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Here's the full set of dash pics:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157625981388495/

Also, somebody PM'd me about the hidden dash fasteners, and here's the answer:

LuisO said:
q said:
Luis,

Where did you get those hidden fasteners for the top hoop behind the dash? What are they called? The dash looks great. Also, were you able to determine dash fit before mounting the body? How does the dash fit up against the fiberglass? I can't decide how I should proceed with the dash placement in relationship to the body.
Those are rivnuts. I fitted the dash to the hoop, drilled in 6 spots a pilot hole thru the dash and the hoop, then installed rivnuts in the dash stub facing the engine.

I then drilled the cockpit side of the hoop to accept the rivnut stub, and the engine side of the hoop to accept (10-32 in my case) properly sized (about 0.75") bolts that screw into the stub of the rivnut from the back, effectively drawing the dash against the hoop...invisibly!

Makes sense?

I haven't fitted the body yet. No need with this method (at least that's my theory). The dash is flush with the hoop so the body should rest along the hoop and the lip should draw across the front of the dash with no gap.

HTH,
Luis.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,205 Posts
LuisO,

This ISIS system sounds interesting. I've just spent some time on the www.isispower.com site trying to figure out the ISIS system. I haven't finished listening to their explanation on the site but I'm still having a hard time figuring out what it is.

It says it eliminates wires but how, does it send a signal from the main unit or does it send a coded signal to the other receiving boxes?

What was it's cost?

I can't figure out how it makes it much simpler to install. Sounds more complicated.

Can you tell me why you installed it on your car?

Do you have an install manual in pdf you could send me?

I know, too many questions.

Thanks for your time, George
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,741 Posts
Wow! Very impressive installation there. I can understand why you said "it takes a lot of planning and attention", you've done a tremendous design and incorporated a lot of features.

Is that an FFR heater?
What tranny are you running? (I like the mid-shift and top-mount hand-brake)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
George, follow this link:

http://www.isispower.com/isis-installation.html

There's a ton of documentation there that can get you started with. I got the 3-cell kit. I will get back to you a bit later with the other (good) questions.

MPTech, the A/C is a VintageAir unit originally sold by QualityRoadsters, now it's carried by another forum vendor that I forget (GasN ? Nick Smith? ... it just escapes me). The tranny is a Tremec TKOII with a mid-shifter. You can order these Tremecs (now the TKO 500/600) with a shifter relocation to the middle or even the front location.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,048 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
This ISIS system sounds interesting. I've just spent some time on the www.isispower.com site trying to figure out the ISIS system. I haven't finished listening to their explanation on the site but I'm still having a hard time figuring out what it is.
George, simply stated, the ISIS system is a small version of a computer network specifically designed to control your car's electrical system. It has a Mastercell (or main computer) that accepts Inputs, and it can have multiple (2 in my case) Powercells that communicate with the Mastercell and accept its commands to turn stuff ON/OFF (and in some special cases "partially" ON, as in Pulse Width Modulation output to run lights dimmer or control electric motor speed).

It says it eliminates wires but how, does it send a signal from the main unit or does it send a coded signal to the other receiving boxes?
Think about this. Put a Powercell near the front of the car to power all front lights and other loads, another one in the back of the car to do the same for things that need electricity in the back. Then put a Mastercell near the dash area (the one in one of my pics above) and run a small harness (CAN cable) that connects all 3 "computers in the network". The Mastercell accepts all the inputs (low voltage, a few milliamps to ground), so connect all your dash switches to it.

You can see how you just avoided having to run 14, or 16 gauge cable (carrying a lot of current) from your "traditional" fuse box to behind the dash and back and forth to the loads....I don't think I could have pulled it off behind my dash with so little space if I had done it the "traditional" way.

What was it's cost?
http://www.isispower.com/products.html

I got the 3-cell kit (main system), the RF Control module (basically a keyfob car remote that you can use to kill the whole system dead like an alarm, PLUS another 14 things that you can control via your remote like lights, horns, whatever), the dashboard harness (contains extra cables and connectors to wire the dash in a snap in fashion, see my pics above) AND I also got the inCODE programmer so that I could program into the system the many changes in the programming I requested from the ISIS guys (which are VERY responsive By the way HIGHLY RECOMMENDED).

I can't figure out how it makes it much simpler to install. Sounds more complicated.
Well, it's one of those relative things. Once you "get" how the system works, and how configurable it is to whatever your needs are, I believe it's worth it and very simple. For example, look at the features above (blinkers and high beams). It would be very tough to replicate that behavior in an "analog" fashion, and at the very least you would need a few relays and a lot of wire going back and forth. ISIS has these out of the box built into the programming. I also went out of the box with the A/C system. I scrapped the diagram that came with the kit and built my own, using the A/C kit's switches and the ISIS concepts to create a system, just like in a production car, with (smooth, continuous) variable speed using the ISIS Pulse Width Modulation capabilities, and also a special feature that keeps the heater valve closed for 5 minutes after I turn the ignition OFF (to prevent hot water creep into the coil/evaporator box. I also have Daylight Running Lights.

I didn't have to run any extra wires or complicated relay based diagrams to accomplish these.

Can you tell me why you installed it on your car?
I think mainly because I am a GEEK at heart.
And this system was just WAAAY to geeky not to have it in my car....

Oh...and because all of the things I said above :)

Hope this helps,
Luis
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,205 Posts
Luis,

Thanks for taking the time to explain this. As I said, in my PM to you, I am a visual learner and am used to looking at wiring schematics. But I am beginning to get my head around this.

I'll be returning to the isis site for some more studying.

I like the idea of eliminating the relays as I'm running a large A/C and space behind the dash will be at a premium. I've gone with the mechanical Smith gauges so I've got behind the dash space issues that are a bit different too.

Thanks for taking the time with this explanation, George
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top