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Ron, I LOVE your work. It reminds me of how designers add superfluous circuitry to microchips in order to send reverse engineering copycats on a wild goose chase.
Anyone who tries to hotwire your car will be left scratching their heads...

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz.
 

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Very nicely done Ron. Is the black tank for coolant?
 
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Ron - Great work on the electrics. :cool:

Sorry I didn't pick up on your list of required parts, as I could have sent you wires, connectors and a fuse box left over from my own build. :rolleyes:

Good luck with the rest of the build.

Take care, Paul. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #364
Very nicely done Ron. Is the black tank for coolant?
Craig
Thanks much.
The black tank is the oil vapor recapture tank (some call it a puke tank, I think). It hooks up to several places where oil vapors are scavenged. I built that one myself as they were made originally (from lawnmower gas tanks, crazy enough). Somewhere in my prior posts I documented how I fabbed it up.

All the best
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #365
Ron - Great work on the electrics. :cool:

Sorry I didn't pick up on your list of required parts, as I could have sent you wires, connectors and a fuse box left over from my own build. :rolleyes:

Good luck with the rest of the build.

Take care, Paul. :)
Thanks, Paul. Good news is that I was able to find all that stuff, but your kind offer is much appreciated. And the funny part is that the disassembly of the old wiring harnesses that I cannibalized was actually fun. Found all sort of weird connectors and tiny parts embedded within the harnesses.

Love to see some pics of your build.

Best
Ron
 

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Ron – I have to warn you it is a LONG read, but I have a build thread on this forum here:

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/146-other-replicas-scratch-builds-kits/363818-sammio-cordite-triumph-spitfire-1500-based-kit.html

But here is just a quick extract covering the wiring…

I did a DIY harness diet and tested the original loom indoors like so.



I had got it all working using the Triumph/Lucas fuse box and glass fuses.



But when the wiring loom went back in the car, I had an intermittent fault I just couldn’t trace. :(

After literally pulling the front loom to pieces, I finally discovered it was the fuse box itself. :cursing:

So I bought a modern blade fuse type box instead and re-routed the wiring to that instead.



But I kept the original fuse box in place and simply put the cover back on.



So, it turns out that both our cars have a fake Lucas fuse box fitted. ;)

Cheers, Paul. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #367
Paul:
A very cool build. Well done. Love all the great metal panel fabrication you did and I can see you know your way around the Lucas electrics.
Drive 'er like you stole 'er!! If you ever get across the pond to Florida, let me now. We can talk Lucas.
All the best
Ron
 

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Ron-

Awesome work as always!! I have really enjoyed following along with your build, and seeing all of the amazing detail you have put into your car!! I think it will be very difficult to to discern the originality question on many areas of your car! It's just freaking awesome!

Paul has done an amazing job with his build too, and he knows how I feel about his build, because of all my comments saying how awesome he is!

I do think there is a lot of overlap between what he did to that old triumph, and what you are doing to your FFR, as you both have discovered.

Keep up the awesome work, and thank you very much for providing us with the amazing details of your build!! You both rock!

Regards,

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #369
Steve:

Just a brief response to your overly kind note above. I cannot express enough the joy (and relief !) that I have gotten knowing that there is a large and incredibly knowledgeable groups of builders and professions out there who come to the immediate aid and rescue of people like me - someone who has worked a bit on cars over the years but jumped into the deep end of the pool to take on a project as immense as building a car, essentially from scratch. In truth, I would NEVER have begun this build without this forum and the people on it. Over the years I have met a few of them at LCS or in my garage if they were visiting SW FL. Lasting friendships seem to be made in minutes. How cool !

My goal was just like everyone here - to build the car the way they wanted it to be built and to have the pride in the final outcome that can only come from doing it yourself (with tons of help from this forum !!). My build took a bit of a path less traveled and there are times that I shook my head and wondered why I went this direction. But I always seem to bounce back and keep going. But knowing that I am able to give back and pay it forward on this forum by detailing my efforts to build my car, my way, gives me an enormous sense of satisfaction.

Again, thanks for your kind comment and following my build. And please (!!) feel free to comment when it looks like I am about to screw something up (or may have already done so). My a$$ has already been saved a few times by the guys out there !!

I hope 2020 is the year I get my neighbors angry at me for the exhaust noise (although quite a few have been waiting for a ride for a while now).

Best,
Ron




Ron-

Awesome work as always!! I have really enjoyed following along with your build, and seeing all of the amazing detail you have put into your car!! I think it will be very difficult to to discern the originality question on many areas of your car! It's just freaking awesome!

Paul has done an amazing job with his build too, and he knows how I feel about his build, because of all my comments saying how awesome he is!

I do think there is a lot of overlap between what he did to that old triumph, and what you are doing to your FFR, as you both have discovered.

Keep up the awesome work, and thank you very much for providing us with the amazing details of your build!! You both rock!

Regards,

Steve
 

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Ron – Over the weekend I made my first trip to the Goodwood Revival.

At some point, I’ll update my own build thread with a full report and more photos.

Unfortunately, the ‘absolutely authentic’ Cobras I saw pre-date your 1966 427 S/C inspiration.

But when I saw this 1964 one with the hood up…



I took a quick look in the engine bay and had to laugh and think of you when I saw this…



No idea if it is functioning, or just for show, as the mechanic was hard at work.

Cheers, Paul. :)

PS
Here is a very short clip from their race.

https://www.goodwood.com/grr/event-coverage/goodwood-revival/2019/9/video-titanic-shelby-cobra-battle/
 

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Discussion Starter #371 (Edited)
Passenger Roll Bar Plugs

Been way too long since I posted last. But work has progressed (slowly) following my retirement from one career and launching a couple of new ones !!

My wife pretty much put her foot down re: having her own (passenger) roll bar. This is probably a good thing in the long run as some driving training and track certifications require the instructor to have his/her own roll bar in order to ride along in the car and I am using the roll bar hoop cross bar to anchor the shoulder belts of my 6 point harness. But I definitely wanted to be able to pull out the passenger roll bar and plug the 3 holes for various shows and events. Because of my desire to have my build “reasonably authentic”, my build does not use the more modern stainless steel roll bar escutcheons with the thin rubber grommet. The original cars used a standard, albeit large grommet for the two down legs of the main hoop and actually did not use any grommet at all for the third (rear) down leg of the roll bar. I’m going with a standard grommet in all three places.

After getting some ideas after having read what other folks on this forum had done to create their own roll bar hole block off covers, I decided to go with 1/8” thick pieces of aluminum. I found I could buy perfectly cut, circular disks on Gbay for just a couple of bucks each and avoid the time to cut them myself. I used my 10 ton press (aka overkill) to put in a slight bend in the aluminum disk to conform to the unique contour of the body at the point of each roll bar hole. I then rounded over the top edge of each disk a bit to have it flow into the body a little better. Then I mig welded a ¼ -20 aluminum screw to the back side of the disk (first time I used my Miller spool gun setup on my Millermatic Mig welder). To complete each plug, I drilled a second disk (x3) with a hole in the center so I can use a wing nut to firmly hold the plug in place. So the concept is that the upper and lower disks sandwich the fiberglass body between them when the roll bar and the grommet are out. I’ll use a very thin sheet of clear silicone or similar material to make a gasket for the bottom of the top plug disk to protect the paint when the plug is installed. The plugs will be painted with the car so they should pretty much disappear when in place. Here are some pics to show you how I did it and how it all came out. I’m pretty pleased with it.















One more thing done !!

Best,
Ron
 

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Ron,

Where did you source those roll bar grommets and your panel dimmer knob & switch?

Great work as always.
 

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Absolutely incredible job.mwell done!
 

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Discussion Starter #374
Ron,

Where did you source those roll bar grommets and your panel dimmer knob & switch?

Great work as always.
Joey:
Good to hear from you. Regarding the panel dimmer and knob, I watched Ebay for a while and bought a nice used original unit. The original knob was nice. Checked it with my voltmeter as soon as it came in to make sure that the rheostat was still operational. It was. They seem to come up with some regularity as these same switches came in multiple makes and models of cars. Think I paid $30 shipped.
As far as the roll bar grommets, check out Rubber Feet, Rubber Grommets, Recessed Bumpers, Cane Tips, Bushings. This is my go to place for grommets and they had these big ones at a good price and low shipping costs.
Hope this helps
Regards
Ron
 
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