Factory Five Racing Forum banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
898 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like some, I am looking for more fuel capacity (20+ gallons). A standard fuel tank or fuel cell will work, as long as it is larger capacity, and a direct bolt up to a MKIII.

I have heard of people using a Crown Victoria or Mercury Marquis OEM fuel tank. Can I get some pros/cons to using either of these? Also, do these fuel tanks use the same fuel pick-up as the OEM Mustang tank?

I would consider a fuel cell, but want one that fits within the body lines like the OEM tanks do. I don't like the FFR fuel cell because it does not. Anybody find any good alternative fuel cells out there?

Thanks.

JT
 

·
FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
1,767 Posts
I am curious to know if anyone has fabricated an extra removable reserve tank to go in the trunk for longer journeys ( no pics of a gas can please !!!).
Steve
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,135 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,142 Posts
just does not look right... the fuel safe from factory five is probly the best bet but expensive
 

·
Gelcoat Driving Maniac!
Joined
·
4,373 Posts
I was in the same boat. I wanted more capacity but didn't want to fool around with trying to make something unproven work. I ended up just ordering the Fuel Safe cell. It cost a good bit more, but in addition to the extra capacity, I get the safety of the cell, which is great on South Florida roads.

Downside to more capacity is you lose the option to do all the trunk modifications for extra storage space. Goodbye Cobra Earl's trunk kit.
 

·
FFCobra Craftsman
Joined
·
6,103 Posts
Anyone talk to the guys at FuelSafe about having to replace the bladder or foam after a few years. I believe to use it as certified for racing you need to do something like that every 5 or so yrs. I am not sure if there are issues for about materials breaking down over time causing problems for street use.
 

·
Charter Member
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
kc wildcat I hope you are not right. because there is no way that can be cheap. Not counting the cost to buy it to begins with $1650. I guess I will just have to fillup more.
 

·
Gelcoat Driving Maniac!
Joined
·
4,373 Posts
KC,

The certifcation document that comes with the Fuel Safe cell does specify a time frame of 5 years. I'm not sure what is necessary after that. I did open it up and the foam is just placed in there in interlocking blocks so it looks like it would be pretty easy to replace, but I'm not sure of the cost associated with it. Also, I'm not sure if you need to replace te bladder after a certain time, I expect that would be the most expensive part.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,135 Posts
Fuel tends to break down the foam and the bladder. They need to be replaced, and the tank recertified avery 5 years. More often if you're using an exotic fuel, like methanol or nitro.

It's not cheap. Figure about $500-600. You'll have to remove the tank and ship it back to fuel safe if it needs to be certified.

If it doesn't need to be certified, you can do it yourself for about 1/2 that.

If you just want a bigger tank, have one made for you by a street rod company or boat company. You can then addd good baffles, and any kind of pick up you'd like. You can design it to fit and look exactly the way you want it. Probably cheaper than a fuel safe cell.

$1600 also includes mounting hardware, gauge sender, vent, rollover valve, and high pressure/high volume fuel pump. You may not need all that. Just the tank alone is available from a lot of places for about $1200.

You can also buy a street tank from fuel safe. Same general design as the aluminum, but made out of plastic. Lighter and cheaper. But not as durable.

the fuel safe web site has a lot of good information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
JT, The '87 Marquise fuel tank fits fine and it doesn't show from the rear. Take the sending unit from the Mustang tank cover and solder it to the Marquise cover along with a 3/8" dia. tube to feed your fuel pump and most of the hard work is done. Holds maybe 20 gals +-. The Marquise cover elect. connector has 4 pins so I just used two of them for the sending unit plug.

John S.
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
898 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all for the info and comments. I was hoping a new, super whamodyne, larger capacity tank had been discovered by now...

johns427,

Thanks for the info. If I can't find anything else, I might have to give the Marquis tank a try.

JT
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
898 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My understanding was that the Mustang tank held 15.4 gallons. Anyone care to chime in?

A full 19 gallons would help, but I wish I could find a nice 25 gallon tank that fit the bill, fuel cell or otherwise.

JT
 

·
FFCobra Fanatic
Joined
·
2,358 Posts
I know where you can get a custom made thirty gallon tank. It is made by one of the forum vendors. Made to fit the factory five.

Interested or is that to big for ya.

Some people have a problem with it because of that amount of gas being carried around. BOOM!

I will be going with it since I am doing a big block build.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
30 gallons, and it fits? Tell us where!

Rich
 

·
Junior Charter Member
Joined
·
898 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah. I'd be interested in taking a look at it.

JT
 

·
Charter Member
Joined
·
272 Posts
Mine is about 22 gallons, and is angled up in the back for visual appeal.





Michael
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
8,269 Posts
MD.

I would recommend moving your battery from that location or at least doing something a lot more structural to hold it in place than the tray and threaded hook rods. Sinking an aluminum battery box into the trunk floor would work well. Mine held up mounted like that for 5 years until I started Auto-X-ing and then it came loose and literally fell out of the back of the car. One good pot hole and yours could do the same thing.
 

·
Charter Member
Joined
·
272 Posts
I have thought of moving it to the front cross-member for easier access, and presumably better weight balance. I originally expected the weight to be biased towards the front, but I think it turns out actually biased toward the rear. I would also switch to a smaller Hawker glassmat for additional weight savings.

The battery box is 1/8" steel braced to the frame diff mounting brackets on the front and the IRS X member on the rear. I could hoist the rear of the car from it. The box lip is custom sized for this specific battery from 1/8" steel angle, so that battery bottom cannot move laterally. The J-bolts connect through holes just above the lip on the base of the battery, so the battery cannot move upwards out of the box unless the J bolts are removed.

The upper battery bracket is custom fitted as well, so that it cannot move laterally on the battery, so the j-bolts are basically in tension only.

I didn't calculate the tensile strength of the j-bolts, but I'm pretty sure the strength is probably higher than the Gs that my body can sustain should the car be inverted flying through the air and impact the earth.

The distance between the lip of the battery box and the tubing for the trunk floor is actually shorter than the height of the battery, so the battery can only be removed intact upward through the trunk. Which is another good reason to move it to the front because replacing will be a pain.

I have had it to the track with sticky tires and been airborne across the rail road tracks. No Detroit sized potholes yet though.

Michael
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top