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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a booster off a Subaru thinking it would fit without modifying the frame but it is not even close. I've seen when people just need to move the 1" tubing to the other side of itself. Well if I did that it still would not even be close to fitting. The booster I bought is only 6 1/2" in diameter. Has anyone put a booster on a Mark II frame? I'm wondering if there is a difference in the location of the tubing from the Mark I frame to the Mark II frame and this may be the problem I have. Or I'm just not figuring something out correctly. Thanks.
 

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i have a mark 1-1/2,i dont think there is any difference though,i used the 93 doner booster,i would have bet it wouldnt fit but after i cut and rewelded it on the bottom(not side)it just cleared by like 3/16,im not sure the diameter,if you need it i could measure it,i would just pick up a new mustang one,let me know....vinny
 

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I think it was OLDGUY who bought one out of a GEO METRO and even it didn't fit. So far the only other way to get power with out cutting the tube
( NOT A MAJOR MOD) is to go with the GN power booster. Heard both good and bad on those. If there were a brake booster sold on this side of the Atlantic one of these guy's would have found it,tried it, and posted it by now!
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I probably should have put more effort into this problem prior to completely finishing the car. :rolleyes:
What ever solution I go with it WILL NOT involve removing the body. :eek: If you know what I mean. :D
 

· FFCobra Master Craftsman
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I just cut the tube where the booster mounts and welded another on the bottom of it. I ran it into the footbox opening and all the way down to the main A-arm support. You only need 3/4" to make the booster work.
Jeff Hamilton
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jeff, Are you running the Mark II chassis? That's why I started this thread, because I believe the tube is closer to the master cylinder than it was on the Mark I chassis. That or my eyes decieve me. It just looks like I need a lot more than 3/4" to make this thing fit.
 

· FFCobra Fanatic
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Kevin,

I had the same problem on my Mk-II chassis. There was no way that just cutting a section out would have made it work. I went with the GN. It cost me about $250 with the unit and harness. But no cutting except to modify the rod. The main problem I have with the GN is that the connections are made toward the outside of the car so you would probably need to re-route some lines.

Ben
 

· THRAMP-master
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I did the mod to fit the stock Mustang booster on my MK II, and it fits. I welded the new section just below the old one, and offset outboard about 1/8".
 

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Kirk and I both have the hydraboost setup from mid-80 Lincoln.
It's almost a direct bolt in. If you have power steering I think it's the best way to go. Also since the Lincoln had rear discs the master cylinder is sized correctly.
The only thing I had to do on a MKI chassis was grind the center hole, the one the pushrod goes through, for clearance.

[ August 23, 2002, 09:50 AM: Message edited by: Gene Young ]
 

· THRAMP-master
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Hotshot -

I would assume that would work, although I've never seen the innards of a booster; from my understanding, it's basically just a big vacuum diaphragm. I think as long as you don't break the seal around the edge or damage the diaphragm, it should work. Worst case scenario, the brakes will still operate, but without power assist.
 

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I don't think that would work! There's a rubber gasket between the two halves and heating it up enough to bend the housing would just melt the gasket. I don't think it would be a good idea to try and mod a booster. If you go to www.howstuffworks.com and do a search on brakes thier's a realy neat article on brake boosters.

Larry
 

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There was no way that just cutting a section out would have made it work.
I just did the mod using the stock booster on a finished car. It was work, but is definately doable. I took out the drivers vent to cut and weld behind the booster.

I just needed to cut out about 4 inches of the .75" tube, and weld another below it. No need to mess with the footbox alum.

David

David
 

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The only problem with the stock vacuum booster is that it's hard to reach the reservoir. The answer to that problem is to use a remote reservoir from a Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager minivan. It plugs right into the rubber grommets in the top of the master cylinder (after you pull out the original plastic reservoir, of course). Voila!


(This is actually a 1993 Mustang Cobra 1" m/c, but I think that it would work fine with the stock m/c)

Forrest
 

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Now that is pretty slick!!!
Mike
 
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