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Discussion Starter #1
O.K. When we got our MK III it came without the upper shaft, DD tube, or lower shaft (we are using a Flaming river rack 15:1). We now have all the pieces and are trying to put them together. We discovered that they don't fit smoothly. I would think that the upper shaft should slide easily back and forth in the DD tube but it does not. Should it? Also, what the heck are Bellville washers? What do they look like?

Next, the DD tube does not slide though the lower flange bearing. Again, I assume that it should. I had to convince it to go on with the rubber mallet but it is rock solid. No movement at all. This can’t be right. Finally, I believe that I saw a string today that said we should paint or powder coat the upper shaft and DD tube, so I want to do this before final assembly.

God bless the forum and each of you!
 

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The Bellville washers are two little wavey spring washers. There should be two recesses machined in the upper stearind shaft for them to sit in. They are what is supposed the keep tension between the upper and middle shaft. As for the bearing fit, I had to tap mine in place also. The lower should only be going on so there is 3/4" explosed at the bottom, the top would be ajustable for where you want the wheel to be.
Hope this helps.
 

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Does anyone have a picture of the Bellville washers by chance?
 

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The Belleville washers are packaged with the steering wheel hub.
 

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Thanks Jeff. I don't remember them and know they're not in my shaft now. The lack of them would explain a little slop I have.

A picture of them would still clarify things for me. I might have to purchase a replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey Convincor, That is a great picture! Very helpful. I know that you said the DD tube should extend only about 3/4" from the footbox wall, but when I "test fit" mine with with the lower shaft it is about 3"-4". Can anyone tell me if this is this a problem?

By the way, what is that rig where your pedal box should be? I don't know what it is but I am already envious!
 

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I also had tight fits as you describe. I did a fair amount of grinding and sanding before things would move as I thought they should.

Bellville washers look like regular washers but they are slightly conical in shape; you can find them in McMaster-Carr. They act as very short, very stiff springs when you try to compress them into a flat shape. Their purpose here is to remove slop between the tubes but still allow them to slide relative to each other so that you can vary the steering wheel position. I coated the parts with anti-sieze compound when I assembled them.

If you plan to powder coat these parts, you will have to undersize them significantly to allow them to fit afterwards. That sounds difficult.
 

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gtuttle, Your my hero. Your timing is perfect. I've been trying to assemble my steering for the last couple of evenings and am having the same problems. Everything is really tight. I wanted to have the tube either painted, coated or chromed but with such a tight fit already there isn't room for that.

convincor: Thanks for the picture. It's worth a thousand words.
 

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gtuttle what city are you in, i just finished my mark III and and if your close enough i could stop by if you need to look at anything on mine !

ken
 

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Randy, here's a pic for you. Note that they have a slight conical shape to them. Easy to think they are just normal washers. About 1/4" ID and just under 1/2" OD.



Cheers, Rod
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I dropped the assembly off at the machine shop this morning to grind it down a bit so it slides in the bearing. I am also having him drill the hole to fasten it to the lower shaft and also machine the upper arm so it slides into the tube. In the mean time it is back to the brakes and the pedal box assembly. We took the box apart and painted it. We are going to try Dave Borden’s brake pedal modification. If I can figure out how to post pictures I am have something to post on Monday!
 

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Thanks guys for the pictures. I'm thinking that I'll never find those things now! Hopefully, Lowes will have something that suits.

r :D
 

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On my Mk III, the only "fit" problem I encounter on the steering shaft was the interference between the collar and the bearing bracket at the front wall of the foot box. Because of the acute angle at the steering shaft to front bearing/bracket connection the collar rubs on the bracket. I solved the problem by eliminating the collar! Seems to me that the collars (a lower and upper) are there to keep the steering wheel from being driven into your chest in the event of a head-on encounter. Clearly, the bearing bracket was designed with a 90 degree (or close to it) geometry in mind. I can't imagine the lower collar being very effective in containing the steering shaft in the crash situation given the angles involved. This is how I justified eliminating the lower collar ... it's my car and my chest!
 

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I've got an extra set if you need.
A suggestion for those who have there's, put them in a plastic bag and tape them to the steering wheel until you install them. I spent 2hrs looking for the first set then gave up. Got another set from FFR and took me another hour to find them. Finally found both last night.Both sets and the bolt for steering wheel are attached to the steering wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey Badtip, sorry I didn't respond earlier. We live in San Rafael. It is a bit of a drive for you. But in two weeks, the City of San Rafael is having their annual downtown hot rod car parade and show. For those of you that don't know, San Rafael's main street was the main st. in American Graffiti. Bring your cars and join us!
 

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Hey convincor,

I looked and looked but can't find them. If they're still available, I would put them to good use.

PM me if so!

Thanks! :D

-R
 

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the above steering shart picture is great

i had to grind down the lower bearing ring quite a bit to get the set collar to go all the way back.

i have never seen anyone else complain about this
 
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