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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Mocked up my new rear calipers (IRS with Lincoln calipers) and installed the e-brake cables. Running them backwards and upwards, then a U-bend and running along the bottom of the upper trunk and to the bracket at the rear of the tranny tunnel. The cable sheath(?) seems excessively long (I'm not talking about the cable itself (I believe that can be shortened)).
It fits, but because it's so long, it seems to have some tight bends that I'm afraid may make operation more difficult.

Am I over-thinking this?

I'll try to get a picture / measurement this evening.
 

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Are your cables going 'under' the 4" cross tube?


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, over the top, across the bottom of the upper trunk floor. There's no way they would go under the 4" tube and the bracket is toward the top of the tunnel and angled down and forward.
 

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I believe there are two sets of e brake mounts... look for the lower pair, my lines go under the 4" cross member
 

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my mounts are behind the rear tranny cover, then under the 4" crossmember.
 

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If you are using the new FFR designed handle (not an OEM Mustang one) on the tunnel side you are pretty much obligated to go under the tube. There is some discussion on that beginning around post #15 in my Mk4 build thread linked below.

To the original question, yes you can shorten the cables and/or sheath. I thought I had a few more pics but this is the best I could come up with. Hopefully my description of the process will help. Begin by determining how long you want the sheath to be. You then need to cut the ferrule, or stop, off of the end of the cable so that you can pull it out of the sheath. A cutoff wheel in a Dremel works well for making a clean, unfrayed cut. When looking at the sheath you'll see that the forward end (on the right in this pic) has a hex shape.



Clamp the cable sheath softly in a vice and turn the end off. Cut back the outer vinyl coating to the length previously determined and strip it to expose the inner coiled steel jacket.



Again using the Dremel with a cutoff wheel cut the jacket back to length. Now you can thread the end back on. You'll need to apply pressure while turning it.

Next step is to feed the cable back in then mock up the cable/sheath to determine the length needed for the inner cable. Take it all back out, cut the cable to length, strip the cable's vinyl coating back to expose steel braid where the new ferrule/stop will go and crimp it on. That's it---you now have a custom length parking brake cable!

Cheers,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jeff to the rescue (again). Thanks again!
Didn't realize I could shorten the sheath too (I knew the cable was possible).
Ok, I think that will solve my problem.

I'm planning to re-locate the e-brake to the top of the tranny as well, so it may be a moot point, but I don't see any other (lower) mount for the cables to run under the tube, but I'll check again tonite. In fact, I think my lower tube is square(?). Let me double check.

Here are a couple pics I snapped last nite with my iPhone.
My cables are running backward and up, from the calipers, and taking a gentle U bend. I think this is correct now (I was dealing with an issue with previous calipers running them forward and down, didn't see any way for that to work with the IRS.


Top cable bracket (I'll look for a lower one tonite, but don't remember seeing one).


Another angle. And I think my lower tube is square, but I'll double check that too.
 
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