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Discussion Starter #1
With the car body pulled tight to the frame and the door fit tight against the body the door would need to be built up quite a bit to align flat with the body, see pic below.

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if I rotate the door out near the bottom to align with the body I get a pretty good gap inside at the bottom.

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does the door need to be flush with the body at the bottom or will weather stripping take care of it? If not, is it better to flush the door with the body and fill the outside or flush the outside and fill the inside bottom to the door?

thx,
jamie
 

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I followed Jeff Kleiners‘ body work thread and fit the doors to use the least amount of filler possible. Fit it flush on the outside. It looks like you are working on the passenger door. That was the easy one for me, the drivers door was a real pain.

HTH
Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The drivers side door fitment is pretty close. Do you have a link to Jeffs thread? Question is what to do about the gap along the bottom if I fit to the outside.

thx,
jamie
 

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Here’s a link to the thread Mk4 Bodywork thread

Much of the gap you are concerned with is closed up with the interior trim that goes on after carpet. I don’t have access to all my pictures right now because I am away from home for work. Here are a couple.

HTH

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i noticed my door bolts were at the full extent of the hinge groves so I extended the grooves a bit and this helped fit the door better. As you suggested I pinned the door flush to the body. The gap is still there but not quite as bad. The body door hole is off a bit so I’ll need to build up / Bondo the sill which should help close the gap a bit more. Your door gaps look perfect, mine not so much.

Looking at your pics, how did you finish the inside door panel? it ties very nicely into the seat pattern. Also, I noticed the heat shield on your side pipes. i’ve had mine ceramicoated but am considering heat shield and also quieted side pipes. I have not fired it up with the pipes on yet but I understand it’s still very loud, too load for a radio even. Where did you get the heat shield?

any tips on aligning the truck lid? I messed with the hood for quite a while before realizing I could set it in place, jack the car and tighten from underneath but not so with the trunk.

thx,
jaga
 

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I got a lot of my extra parts here Body Parts.
And from here https://www.breezeautomotive.com/

To align the trunk lid I tightened the fasteners just tight enough to hold the lid if no force was on it. Closed the lid, moved it to where I wanted it, opened it and completed tightening the fasteners.

HTH

Norm
 

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I've been working on this myself, in the last few days, and from my searches this is what I've come up with.

Positioning the Body on the Frame
  • Start at the rear of the car – Jeff Kleiner has a good solution for the rear body mounting that allows you to adjust the rear of the body forward or rearward depending on how you want it to be.
  • The body position on the chassis - You need to locate (find it) the door latch ‘catch’ mounting bracket to the 3/4" vertical tube. It is located where the rear of the door with it’s door latch will end up when the door is closed. It has a hole in it for mounting the door catch. The body must be 1/16” to 1/8” in front of that plate. In order to achieve this, you may have to remove some material from the cowl over the dash to allow the body to move forward without that rounded cowl lip hitting the dash. Account for the future addition of covering over the dash.
  • Also be aware of the trunk side panels, as they will probably prevent the forward movement of the body. I was able to push mine out of the way and will trim them later.
  • Also consider the trunk flooring that is over the fuel tank, then drops down to hit the rear of the car body, it may have to be trimmed also.
Again, you want the body just forward of the mounting bracket welded onto that 3/4" tube

da Bat quote - ”1/16 to an 1/8” forward of mounting bracket welded onto 3/4" tube”

FITTING MK4 Body and Doors..by da Bat (Jeff Miller)


You start with the rear quick jacks and that shoves the body forward and elevates the rear of the body where it needs to be (no bulb seal on top of the rear cockpit bulkhead).
  • Drivers side, make sure the door opening is pulled forward enough (just in front of the square tube that the latch peg attaches. your rear door edge of the body should be just a bit forward of where the tab is welded to the 3/4 tube (even with, will work, but best just a 16th to 8th forward)
    • Fasten the under body lip (at the front down from the door hinge post) to the frame with #12 X1 in self tapper (make sure the body is pushed in as tight as it will go.
    • Now do the rear but pull the body out 3/4 in and secure with self tapper.
  • Passenger side is the same except both front and rear are pushed all the way in.
The body floating above the square tube is as it should be.

By Jeff Kleiner from another thread:

When I did a very early Mk4. I tried the hinge manipulation as well but it was futile. You've got to make the door meet the body at 4 areas in both the horizontal and vertical axis. If you get the lower front and lower rear aligned with the body the cowl intersection goes wonky. Make the lower front and two top corners of the door meet the body and the lower rear is out farther than you can pull the body. Get the uppers and the lower rear of the door good and that leaves the front lower corner in and the chassis frame members won't let you push the body in far enough to make the intersection flush. In the end, the consensus is that having to do the bodywork to correct the mismatch at the lower front corner of the door is the lesser of all evils. I just adjust the door position to get the other 3 intersections as close as possible and roll with it, barely giving it a second thought anymore. Cheers, Jeff

George
 
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