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Discussion Starter #1
Newbie posted in introductions by mistake......have a mk3 using 95 donor new parts mostly master cylinder calipers and pads rear 8.8 axle , brake pedal box , can't stand on brakes an get to lock up manual brakes no booster no mods appear to have been done . Have 13" from pedal to pivot bolt....and 3.5" from pivot bolt to pushrod. Ratio3.7.....I believe need approx 6.5 moving up 1.5" will get me that .is it necessary to do brake pedal mod or is it either , or in this case? The car is assembled bought off fellow that wasn't sure of build just had the money. Doing in car is sure to be a pain. At a loss any and all help appreciated
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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I think it will vary in detail depending on what pedal box you have but generally there is another hole further up that you can use for the pivot bolt. Then you need to cut and weld the pedal. On mine the head of the bolt was on the outer side of the pedal box. The bolt was too long to remove because the head contacted the aluminum. I ended up butchering a hole in the aluminum and then siliconing a patch to close it up when done.
 

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I have the 95 pedal box no extra holes
If you have an unmodified pedal on a sn95 pedal box it might be easier to do power brakes. I am not sure about the Mk 3 but on a Mk4 there is no way to easily remove the pedal box assembly on a completed car. On my sn95 pedal box there was a hole on one side of the box for the modified pedal bolt but, not on the other. I had to drill the hole on the other side in the correct spot. I can't imagine how you would do that with the pedal box in the car.

As Craig posted, it might not be possible to get the long bolt out of the pedal box anyway. On my Mk4, when I converted to power brakes, I had to unbolt the pedal box from the front, remove the clutch cable and twist the box around to find a space big enough to get the bolt out. Used all the bad words I learned in my 11 years in the Navy laying on my back in the foot well. In comparison to that, the rest of the power brake mod was easy.
 

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You are correct, the pedal ratio is wrong. You'll need to remove and modify the pedal to work correctly. I did this and had great brakes from day 1. Even better when I installed Wilwoods.

 

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Not a waxer
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I got your Private Message RE: Pedal mod. I have a cut & welded pedal from a SN95 pedal box that came in a box of parts that were included with a Mk3 that a customer to brought me to finish a few years ago. He ultimately decided on power brakes so this modified pedal was not used. Center to center on it measures 2.375". I'm not sure what the dimension is supposed to be for modified (don't have a Mk3 manual handy and any cars that I've built using a Mustang box have gotten power brakes) but if you'd like to have this one I'll be happy to send it to you. Just understand that I did not weld it and although it looks good I can not/will not guarantee it's integrity.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks so much for all the help Jeff I feel blessed you took the time to help resolve my issues as far as body rub I am going to smooth inner fender lines install a Teflon insert into the glass after forming with a heat gun , coat with skateboarders paraffin wax on tire and Teflon till I get time to do a proper repair was watching a video on shortening axle seems very doable .
 
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