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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I finally did it. After seeing so many of you with these linkages I decided to create one of my own. The main shaft is 5/16" SS while the push/pull rods are 1/4" aluminum. I may change these to stainless as well but I will then need to find a machine shop that can cut the threads on them. I was having trouble getting the arms to have enough bite to hold on the rod so I finally pre-located their position and then drilled small holes into the 5/16" rod so the set screws now act as pins. The feel is so much nicer than the cable and I think I will be able to go with a lighter spring. I backed the supports behind the dash with some pieces of 1/4" X 2" angle aluminum. This stiffened up the firewall nicely.

All in all it was pretty straight forward just a lot of trial fitting. Of course now it all comes back off for clean-up and the painting of the arms etc.

The hole in the firewall where I originally had the temperature probe coming through will need to be repaired but I am thinking it may be a good place for my FFR serial number plate.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Looks good, I used steel rods for all of mine, the aluminum should hold up, you'll be the first to know! Keep up the good work.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Very well done!! I would love to do this but think I will wait till my cable breaks for the 3rd time.

Regards

Bob
and for a littlemwhile at least I will keep my cable in the trunk just in case my backyard engineering fails me. :001_rolleyes:
 

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Albany ny
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Dont be afraid to thread stainless rod. Just do it, I did mine with a regular die and transmission fluid to lube. Cut 1/2 turn and back off to clean chips. Its not hard. You can get to everything easy now, dont wait till those rods fail and the car is all buttoned up.
Great job on the linkage by the way!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A question

In my picture where the rod attaches to the "carb" (Powerjection EFI) you can see a hole just above the one where I have my linkage attached. This is where the original ball was attached. I would like to mount the rod up there but unfortunately the hole is 3/16" and not the 1/4" I need. I have tried to drill it out but my bit won't touch it. Is this hardened? and if so would a cobalt bit do the trick?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dont be afraid to thread stainless rod. Just do it, I did mine with a regular die and transmission fluid to lube. Cut 1/2 turn and back off to clean chips. Its not hard. You can get to everything easy now, dont wait till those rods fail and the car is all buttoned up.
Great job on the linkage by the way!
I will give it a try as I specifically got 1/4" SS rod that was the "softest" as I told them I planned to thread it. Lets see what happens with my relatively inexpensive die set. :001_rolleyes:
 

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I finished mine also Paul. Not as nice as yours but it was on my must have list.

Had to bend the foot box control arm a second time so it isn't pretty, I'll make a new one soon.

I need a shiny carb!

Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Metal



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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I finished mine also Paul. Not as nice as yours but it was on my must have list.

Had to bend the foot box control arm a second time so it isn't pretty, I'll make a new one soon.

I need a shiny carb!

View attachment 37807


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Looks good Vic,

Either you have polished the aluminum to a very high gloss or you are mounting two engines back to back!! Nice job.
 

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Ya, and you won't see one lick of all that polishing with the body on.

If I had realized how little of the shiny stuff you see when it's done I likely wouldn't have bothered. But I did learn about tennis elbow!

I'll get back on topic. My linkage only uses 2 rod ends so it was much easier than yours I image...I'm weak minded so I need to go with the easy option.
How hard was it to get the 3 ends in line, how did you do it?

Vic
 

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Very well executed. I plan on doing the same thing on my build
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ya, and you won't see one lick of all that polishing with the body on.

If I had realized how little of the shiny stuff you see when it's done I likely wouldn't have bothered. But I did learn about tennis elbow!

I'll get back on topic. My linkage only uses 2 rod ends so it was much easier than yours I image...I'm weak minded so I need to go with the easy option.
How hard was it to get the 3 ends in line, how did you do it?

Vic
I leveled everything and then installed just the two in the engine compartment. I then fed the rod through and used the end of it to mark the hole location in the footbox side panel. Drilled that and then fed the rod further through and put on the third rod end and put it against the firewall bracket inside the footbox. Marked that and drilled. Everything lined up.
 

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Snake Farmer
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Nicely done, looks very professional! :)

I don't see any safety throttle return spring though? Just not installed yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nicely done, looks very professional! :)

I don't see any safety throttle return spring though? Just not installed yet?
There is no safety return spring. The Powerjection has 2 shaft mounted springs. One on the "primary" shaft and the other on the "secondary" shaft although there are really no secondarys as both pairs of butterflys open at the same time and they are mechanically linked so if one closes they both close. I tried the throttle with one or the other disconnected and it closes nicely with either one. So I figure that I have the redundancy I need there. Dissenting opinions appreciated.

As a final safety feature being a mechanical linkage if worse comes to worse I can but my toe under the throttle pedal and pull it back with the linkage. Failing all of that I turn off the key
 

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Paul my Holley has return springs on both the primary and secondary but on my old carb it left it open slightly and I found I had to tie under it.

Been fooling with just getting enough spring without making the pedal firmer.


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