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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Wow, it’s been too long since I’ve posted, I know why I’m not a blogger.

I’ve made a bit of progress. @CraigS for sure would have been easier to just get the aftermarket wiring harnesses. Lot’s of excess wiring…Next time.

-Brake lines are complete, just need to fabricate a mount for the PV to frame
-trunk aluminum is in place
-radiator is in temp location, zip tied up, the factory tubes with extension don’t exactly line up the best, will wait to adjust after the body is in place
-I’m waiting on aftermarket WP pulley for the serpentine belt and will just run that with the alternator, crank and shorter belt
-new valve covers are on after the bolt head issue, however the cable mount on the intake rests on top of the passenger side cover :-(
-Battery cables are all in place
PO removed the ebrake bracket, I’m going to fab an alternate approach there
Also missing the ignition piece of the steering column, will be going push button

? - I have a AOD, haven’t seen much for how others ran the existing pipes back from the radiator for cooling, I’m going to try and bend the factory ones and see how far off they are
? - I’m unable to find the details on where to splice in the license plate light in the trunk, anyone have a good pic of where that would go in the factory harness? I’m planning to use the splice connectors for that and have run the wires through the trunk aluminum for now.



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Nice work!
I had to add an intake spacer to clear my valvcovers and that solves the problem with the throttle cable.

Which way does your water pump spin? Without an idler I don’t see how there will be enough belt touching the pulley to stop it from slipping.

we put an AOD in my dad’s MK3.1 and had to modify the crossmember. We found fittings to convert to inverted flare and made new lines.

Licence plate light should be wired with the tail lights, you can tie in to that harness anywhere.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Nice work!
I had to add an intake spacer to clear my valvcovers and that solves the problem with the throttle cable.

Which way does your water pump spin? Without an idler I don’t see how there will be enough belt touching the pulley to stop it from slipping.

we put an AOD in my dad’s MK3.1 and had to modify the crossmember. We found fittings to convert to inverted flare and made new lines.

Licence plate light should be wired with the tail lights, you can tie in to that harness anywhere.
Thanks @SC210Ford, I was wondering on the cross member as it’s right in the way of where the shifter handle would sit.

I’m not sure on the water pump rotation, it’s currently the stock pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Continuing to make some progress:
E-brake wires installed
Transmission mounted under transmission tunnel cross member, picture below

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Unfortunately I do not have the key, so I’ve wired up a push button for the ignition. The wire setup seems to work, I hear the relay go, however appears the starter it done for, will be testing at local auto store tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I know I’ve seen them in other posts, however am partially posting here for reference, have found the following very helpful in the build process:

Wiring diagrams

LMR Great videos and articles on Mustang info

Fox engine bay diagram

EFI Sensors

I’ve also found several photos and responses here in the forums to help fill in the gaps in my mechanical know how and FFR Manual details.

Thank you so far!!!

Starter confirmed DOA, refurbish in hand and ready to install.
Additional items completed:
MAF conversion complete
Replaced ac w pulley to address the water pump direction issue. Measurement of the belt was a bit long, trying a few other sizes today, think 57 3/4 should be close.
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
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Well, making some progress again, was at a bit of a crossroads with the seized engine and have decided to forge ahead with seeing if the existing 302 is worth salvaging.

Have pulled the heads and pistons look ok, have dropped this off at a local shop to see what they can figure out and let me know.

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bummer. when was the last time this thing would crank over by hand? too late now, but usually if an engine is going to sit for a while, many recommend spraying some fogging oil into the spark plug holes and turning the engine a bit. this keeps the cylinder walls lubed up. see what the engine shop says. you might be able to bore out the cylinders and rebuild it as a 347 stroker!
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
bummer. when was the last time this thing would crank over by hand? too late now, but usually if an engine is going to sit for a while, many recommend spraying some fogging oil into the spark plug holes and turning the engine a bit. this keeps the cylinder walls lubed up. see what the engine shop says. you might be able to bore out the cylinders and rebuild it as a 347 stroker!
Thanks for the idea, however no idea on the cranking, I didn’t check it when I first got it, rookie learning opportunity! The project was started by the PO 17 years ago. I did put trans fluid down each cylinder, let it sit a few days, try to crank, then one more time to no avail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Good news, bad news! Engine can spin freely and looks like a good block, pistons, intake. Torque converter and AOD transmission was locked up and the culprit for the engine being stuck. So rebuilding the long block and sourcing a T5!
 

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Good excuse to convert to a stick shift!
 
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