[John Phillips]

Well, my backbone tunnel-cover aluminum, like many others, is bent a little too narrow. It won't fit up to the vertical aluminum at the front of the tunnel...I'm able to push it to within 3/4" of the proper placment. How can I spread the bent-over side flanges of this aluminum piece to let it go forward enough, or do I need to pound the flanges flat underneath and mount the trans tunnel cover by screwing into the backbone tubes...or is there another method? I want to make it removeable. Thanks a lot.

 

[oldguy668]

John: Same problem here. I like your idea of flattening the flanges and screwing through the doubled-over part. Removeable, strong, and hidden by the carpet. Use rivnuts or nutserts.

Happy motoring

 

[Aaron Silidker]

I called Dave Rhia at FFR and he made me a custom one for free. Maybe if they get enough comlaints they will permanently change the piece.

 

[Max_Thompson]

I know ours is the same way. We will end up rebending it like the rest of the panels that didn't fit well. Oh well.

 

[LT1FFR]

I shortened the rear of the tunnel cover and put in a 1.5" spacer piece at the front of the trans tunnel. This gave me a mounting point for the front of the tunnel cover and D-Zus fasteners will hold it in place.
Good Luck,

 

[vince ffr3209]

this may or may not work, im a heating contracter, when we put sheetmetal together in a trunk line we use S-cleats, i have a hard time describing how they work, but they mate 2 pieces of metal, if you have a forced air heating system in your house take a look at them. home depot sells them or any local heating contracter, cost is like 3 dollars for a 5foot piece. anyway these can usually absorb a 1/2 inch gap between 2 pieces of metal and it will help in keeping the trans tunnel removable.vince

 

[vince ffr3209]

uh oh i reread the post , i thought the top panel was too narrow, but it sounds like its not long enough, so my last reply may not work for what you want. vince

 

[Aaron Silidker]

Just call FFR and ask for a custom bent piece.

 

[Richard Oben]

Put it inside the walls and it fits perfect. We trim the front so there is not 3 layers of alum at the front of the tunnel. Fits perfect. Hope this helps. Cheers Richard. LOOK FOR THE EASY ANSWER FIRST.

 

[n559br]

Richard,

If you put it inside the walls then you can't remove it. Mine is at least 1-1/2" short lengthwise and won't fit across the tunnel event under the walls. I'm just going to cut the edges off and screw it on so that I can take it off later.

Ben

 

[Robert Duncan]

I am a Mark I guy, so don't know for sure. But I thought the Mark II tunnel was cross braced so a removeable top doesn't get you anything.

 

[n559br]

Yes it's cross braced, but I can still get to the shifter for a T5 from there. So I can upgrade shifters at any time. I can also refill the tranny from the top with a long tube on my fluid bottle. So I can't pull the tranny from the top but I can sure do some major servicing that way.

Ben

 

[bill32]

Mine was the same way. I ended up puting over the side sheets and pounding it as far forward as I could and then trimmed the back some. Not very pretty, but it is under the carpet. I hope FFR has fixed this already. What I don't understand is how no one caught this at the factory originally. I would have thought that someone did a test fit of their new Mark II design panels at least once?

 

[bwana50]

I just sheared off the bent sides. Riveted the tunnel side pieces to the bracing, then installed the now-flat top with nutserts.

 

[blinn]

My kit is a "tweener" it has all the Mark II features except the backbone. My trans tunnel rear piece that meets up with the rear wall is at least an inch to narrow and will no way meet the sides of the trans tunnell. Anyone else have that problem?
Brian

 

[David G]

I have one of the first complete MKII kits... both my top cover and the piece that fits the back wall are both way too narrow. And that back piece you are talking about is just completely wrong in dimensions.