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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy Set my coupe up with the standard FF brakes, but the pedal effort was REALLY high so put on a hydraboost unit. It works fine but certainly lost some pedal feel. Ultimately I would like to just have manual brakes. Can I just change the master cylinder for more mechanical advantage? Anyone got a setup they are happy with? Thanks
 

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I have the Wilwood manual brake set up on my Coupe. They work great but the pedal effort is of course higher. In normal driving I use the weight of my leg and it is easy, for an all out stop you will need to stand on it. Mostly just a different driving style, can't just use your toe on the pedal like a modern power brake setup.
David W
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! Mine was a little more than that I think....I'm a big guy and don't mind some effort, it just seemed like it was a bit much...plus mine is my everyday driver. Sent an email to Wilwood see if they have any suggestions.
 

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There are a few questions that need answering. What pedal assy are you using? What size master cylinder or cylinders?
 

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Also options with different pads. In the end, manual will always have a heavier pedal. But no reason it shouldn't be reasonable and also stop the way you need it to.
 

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There are a few questions that need answering. What pedal assy are you using? What size master cylinder or cylinders?
AND>>> If you used a Mustang pedal box (which I suspect you did since you added hydroboost) did you do the pedal mod to increase it's mechanical advantage? If you did not that would result in high pedal effort.

Jeff
 

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AND>>> If you used a Mustang pedal box (which I suspect you did since you added hydroboost) did you do the pedal mod to increase it's mechanical advantage? If you did not that would result in high pedal effort.

Jeff
So that brings up a good point, and this is as good a time to ask it as any, even at the risk of getting flamed for it.

When I built my Mark 3 in 2005-6, I used a fox Mustang pedal box and had the brake pedal shortened.

If that's what you're referring to, doesn't that actually decrease the mechanical advantage?

In other words, I'm visualizing that it would take more force to loosen a lug nut if you used a stubby ratchet vs. putting a three-foot long cheater bar over the lug wrench, right?

Apologies in advance for going off-topic...

Thanks,
Will
 

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...doesn't that actually decrease the mechanical advantage?
Not if it's done the right way. If you shortened it from the pedal end toward the pushrod, yes it would decrease mechanical advantage. If you shorten the top end and move the pivot toward the pushrod, then mechanical advantage increases.

-Kyle
 

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Not if it's done the right way. If you shortened it from the pedal end toward the pushrod, yes it would decrease mechanical advantage. If you shorten the top end and move the pivot toward the pushrod, then mechanical advantage increases.

-Kyle
Thanks for clarifying. It makes perfect sense now!

IDK why I had it stuck in my head that the mod was limited to shortening the distance from the pedal pad to the fulcrum point, which made no sense to me at all...I looked at Mike Everson's website and clearly see the proper mod.

Now I have to try and determine what was done to my brake pedal...it was modded in 2005 by Rick, an NH builder that was well-known to the FFR community at the time (in New England, anyway). So he took it, "cut & welded it" then brought it back and showed me his nice weld job on the pedal arm, leading me to believe he simply shortened the arm, decreasing the mechanical advantage.

Next time I'm upside down, head-first under the dash I'll be sure to look closely at his handiwork and try to determine what he did...

Thanks,
Will
 
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