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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter #21
Based on your sig and comment of 3.55 rear, your car will run between 12.8 and 13.2. It takes sticky tires, good reaction time and perfect shifting to get in mid to low 12's. I have run with other FFR cars. BTW use the 650 w/ mech secondaries, they will always open when pedal mashed.


This is exactly what I wanted to hear,
With the street tires I should have lots of fun without going so fast I get I trouble with tech


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Junior Charter Member
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I don't drag race. But my advice is YES on the driveshaft loop. Check out Metco Motorsports. They make a nice on e that bolts onto the transmission mount. No drilling.

I was going to mention arm restraints. Even if they said you don't need them, I would use them.
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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22,703 Posts
I don't drag race. But my advice is YES on the driveshaft loop. Check out Metco Motorsports. They make a nice on e that bolts onto the transmission mount. No drilling.

I was going to mention arm restraints. Even if they said you don't need them, I would use them.
Agreed. A couple yrs ago saw a video of a Cobra rolling at a track event. he had a 5 point harness so his body stayed planted where it should in the seat. But his arms looked like a wind mill. Scary stuff.
 

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Again, not drag racing, but I do personally know a Cobra owner that rolled on a road course. Not having arm restraints cost him three years of physical therapy.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Still working out details of required safety equipment but I got some good news today,
I can run the car with EFI in a non competition class with the nostalgia group!

I also picked up a gently used fire suit on the weekend and a buddy offered to buy me a helmet in exchange for some work on his car!

Over the winter I'll add a driveshaft loop to the car,

I'm also considering putting a trailer hitch on my '54 woody wagon and towing the FFR to the track.


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Nostalgia Drag Racing, very cool.

I'm also considering putting a trailer hitch on my '54 woody wagon and towing the FFR to the track.
Showing up with this rig, even cooler! :wink2:


FYI, your woody may need to be upgraded for hauling, a Cobra and trailer is heavier than you think! (Brakes, Springs, trans-cooler, etc)
 

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Too Cheap to paint!
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One area not discussed is the chassis. The FFR chassis flex like a piece of tissue paper. I would look into a partial cage or at least side cage like Mike Noyes and myself. Stiffen the car up so it reacts better. And more safety if you lose it, as these cars are not so safe when crashing.......
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Also look into drag racing specific adjustable shocks. FFRs need all the help they can get in that first 50 feet or so.
 

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One area not discussed is the chassis. The FFR chassis flex like a piece of tissue paper. I would look into a partial cage or at least side cage like Mike Noyes and myself. Stiffen the car up so it reacts better. And more safety if you lose it, as these cars are not so safe when crashing.......
What are you talking about??? Thats BS
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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My MKI ('Ol #1437) was the next one made after Ralph B's MKI and chassis was very "flexible" after I installed my 347 with hard launches. What I did to help take flex out, was to install "Auto-Weld" upper rear control arms. Really helped with the 60' times(mid/low 1.6s) and also to put the power to the ground. The newer Mk(s) are much,much better now days. Just saying---Have fun & be safe.
hth
Butch
 

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My MKI ('Ol #1437) was the next one made after Ralph B's MKI and chassis was very "flexible" after I installed my 347 with hard launches. What I did to help take flex out, was to install "Auto-Weld" upper rear control arms. Really helped with the 60' times(mid/low 1.6s) and also to put the power to the ground. The newer Mk(s) are much,much better now days. Just saying---Have fun & be safe.
hth
Butch
I would like to hear more about what you did. I looked at their website and do not fully understand which parts you bought and what the options are.

Thanks!

Bill
 

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Thanks,
I really need to talk to the tech guys at the track. One old guy I talked to said if I'm slower than 13.5 and don't run slicks I can run with just a helmet and long sleeve shirt.

Might be fun for the first season to see how consistent I can get with street tires and 355 gears and try to dial in at 13.55 ;)


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One other thing you need, even if they don't make you.......ARM RESTRAINTS.

Definitely talk to the track techs where you plan to run. You don't want to prep your car and get sent home.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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Hey Bill,
This is the set up that I used(still use on the street) for drag racing,ect. Go to
"Auto Weld chassis.com"
Super Stang 8.8 section
Part #1450C Top Control Arm Kit for "Cobra"
A lot of "good" info there.
hth
Butch
 

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Senior Member
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Hey Bill,
This is the set up that I used(still use on the street) for drag racing,ect. Go to
"Auto Weld chassis.com"
Super Stang 8.8 section
Part #1450C Top Control Arm Kit for "Cobra"
A lot of "good" info there.
hth
Butch



With my old car... 4 link with coilovers ... TA radials... 1.80 60ft.... not to shabby for a stock5.0
 

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Hey Bill,
This is the set up that I used(still use on the street) for drag racing,ect. Go to
"Auto Weld chassis.com"
Super Stang 8.8 section
Part #1450C Top Control Arm Kit for "Cobra"
A lot of "good" info there.
hth
Butch
Thanks!
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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4,042 Posts
Bill,
There are some vids of me over on "YouTube" launching at the drags with that setup and my smaller hp motors. One vid "Cobra crash at Medford drags" I'm the one that didn't crash. Can't remember names of the other vids. Maybe look for "Cobras at Medford drag strip?" lol
hth
Butch
 
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