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FFCobra Fanatic
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578 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I bought an after market 8quart pan with a rear sump pick up tube. The pick up tube has a tab on it that you are supposed to attach to the Main Cap Bolt "retaining bolt". My motor does not have this special bolt, it has normal length bolts. My question is should I attach the pick up tube to the standard bolt, or buy a bolt that has the 'retaining bolt'?
The next worry is, will removing this bolt for either application create problems for the motor, the bearings or the crank? I have had several people say its no problem, but the guy who built my engine is worried that if the bolt doesn't go back in in exactly the right spot, it may cause a failure.
Any thoughts, opinions?
Thanks Steve

Oh yeah, the engine is a 1995 351W.

[ April 21, 2005, 03:14 PM: Message edited by: Steve V. ]
 

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Senior Member
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18,090 Posts
Find out what the torque spec was on the main bearing caps.
Crack both bolt's loose a little at a time until both are loose.
Install new bolt with "Stud" for the pickup tube.
Re-torque bolts at 30%, 60% 100% of the given torque spec.

You're good to go.

I don't have a clue what your engine builder is worried about...
 

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I've pulled main and rod caps before to check bearing condition with no ill effects. I'd follow Randy's advice on the torque. On the pickup stud issue....I ran into the same thing w/ ARP main bolts. For whatever reason, ARP doesn't offer SBF main bolts w/ the stud. I just bolted through the pickup tab (w/ the tab under the washer). Double check that your pickup doesn't end up too far off the bottom of the pan since the tab is now mounted higher by the thickness of the bolt head.
 

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I'm with Randy on this one. There is no place for the bolts and cap to go but the right one.
 

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I just bolted through the pickup tab (w/ the tab under the washer)
Not a good idea. This can lead to uneven torque on the main cap, and since the bolt has in effect, an extra washer under it, the main bore can be pulled out of alignment because the bolts are threaded into the block to different depths. ARP makes a main stud kit that includes the special stud, ARP P/N# 154-5407
 

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On the other hand, there's probably a bigger risk in installing main studs without having the block align honed afterwards. In the context of the original question, align honing at this point would be a big deal.
 

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FFCobra Fanatic
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578 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Wade,
Are you saying that if I don't align hone the block after replacing the bolt, that I could have problems?
Then should I just keep the stock pan and pick-up and sell the Canton.
I would like to use the Canton, but I dont want to ruin my engine even more!
Thanks,
Steve
 

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Originally posted by Steve V.:
Wade,
Are you saying that if I don't align hone the block after replacing the bolt, that I could have problems?
Then should I just keep the stock pan and pick-up and sell the Canton.
I would like to use the Canton, but I dont want to ruin my engine even more!
Thanks,
Steve
If it were my engine, I would just replace the main bolt with the correct studded bolt, and be done with it. It's always a good idea to have the mains alignment checked after replacing all the bolts with studs. In your case, I don't think it's required.
 

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I have removed many cap bolts on engines before, I haven't had a bearing failure yet. I would say do it just as explained in the earlier post by Bigfoot you should be fine.

Dan
 

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Originally posted by Steve V.:
Wade,
Are you saying that if I don't align hone the block after replacing the bolt, that I could have problems?
Then should I just keep the stock pan and pick-up and sell the Canton.
I would like to use the Canton, but I dont want to ruin my engine even more!
Thanks,
Steve
If you just replace the bolt, you're probably ok. If you switched to STUDS, then most engine builders would recommend align honing. ARP tech recommended the same thing when I inquired about switching to studs.
 

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just another builder
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8,238 Posts
actually, you're boyh right!
this is one of those deals on where do you want to roll the dice?....Wade IMHO took the lowest risk approach...not perfect, but better than a tear down...
take a chance and go with what someone else has done successfully...besides he is a SC car...very rough on the bottom end
 
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