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What are the normal cost of:
1. Crankshaft grinding
2. Line boring for crank
3. Balancing.

[ January 19, 2004, 06:45 PM: Message edited by: Knightyme ]
 

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Bill, here's local going prices in CT.[At very good dependable shop].Crankshaft grinding-$88.00,Line boring-$180.00,Bal.-$225.00 and here's some other prices for some other things you'll probably want to do.Hot tank-$35.00,Cam bearing and freeze plug install-$50.00,Bore & hone cylinders-$180.00,Recon. Rods-$100.00[Put Arp bolts in and hone ends to correct size],Square the engine deck[where heads bolt to]$180.00,recommended when building for hi-performance use. Hopes this helps.Did you check on buying a crate engine ready to bolt in? A lot of people find this to be easier and not much more expensive. You can always find a 427 SOHC and do what Ron Randell wants to do. See you in a couple of weeks.
 

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If you don't need to line bore the block, you should not do it. It moves the crank closer to the cam and thus puts slack in your timing chain.
I used to build HP engines for a living and we rarely ever had to line bore blocks.

My .02

Bart
 

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Originally posted by The New FFRich Birkhan:
When I built my engine I went with ARP main studs and the shop recomended I line bore. It even says it in the ARP instructions something about it distorts the block differently than the bolts.
I agree, that would be one of the "rarely" times we did line hone blocks. Bart
 

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BTW, if you do have your assembly balanced ask for your weight card.
That card should outline the weight of your assembly for each item and should have the "bob" weight that is used on the crank in the balance process. This is very handy down the road if you need to replace your parts or have a new clutch assembly balanced to match your assembly/flywheel combo etc.

Bart
 

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I'm with Steve - the centerline of the crank shouldn't change when you line bore the block. If you moved the centerline up, it would not only create slack in the timing chain, it would move TDC closer to the top of the cylinder. If it moved sideways it would change the connecting rod angles at half-stroke. If it moved it down would tighten the timing chain. All are a bad thing.
 

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All the talk here is about a line 'bore'. Isn't it true that most shops perform an 'align hone' (much less material going away) to simply perfect the otherwise undamaged mains? I thought the align hone was performed first, because that perfect line (through the centers of the now-perfected mains) forms the reference for subsequent operations, such as cleaning up the deck and boring and/or honing.

Wouldn't a line 'bore' imply that something pretty serious happened, and change the outside diameter of the main bearings?

I'm not an expert by any stretch, but I thought that with an align hone you would still use stock bearings -- or if you change size, it would be because you ground the main journals on the crank smaller so you'd go to 'undersize' bearings -- but in any case, the outside diameter of the bearing wouldn't change.

Again, I'm not an expert. Is there a difference between the line bore and hone? :confused:

AJ
 

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When one takes their block/engine into a Machine shop, what specifically do you ask for? For example, when I take my 351 block in I know it'll need to be bored "30 over" but what else should I ask for? I plan to use aluminum heads if I go this route (as opposed to buying a crate motor).

Can I balance the internal parts in my garage?
 

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Align Boring a block does close up the distance between the crank and camshaft centerlines and does mean that all other clearances be re-checked and appropriately accommodated.
The procedure typically calls for .010 to .020 material to be removed from the main bearing caps. The caps are then bolted to the block and torqued. The hole that comprises the main-bearing bore is now football shaped. The Block boring bar is indexed to the block and careful measurements are taken to ensure that the "new" mainbearing bores will be centered left-right and top-bottom. The block is then re-bored so that all main bearing saddles are in perfect "Alignment" (Hence the term Align Boring). These bores are then final honed to the proper dimensions for the standard bearings.
In a perfect world, little to no material is actually removed from the "football" shaped bores at the parting line between the cap and block. The dimensions upon honing are standard and the block does not need to have main bearing sleeves.

Align Honing is much the same as Align Boring except far less material is removed. Usually only .002 to .003" is removed from the main caps, then the saddles are "honed" to perfect alignment.

This Align Honing process is recommended when replacing main bearing bolts with studs because of the different loading it puts on the saddles.

Align Boring should not be done unless you are replacing the main bearing caps with Steel or 4 bolt caps.

Yes - if you Align Bore a stock block and caps, you will have a little more slack in the timing chain. It's not devastating, but can retard the timing of the cam and give you another reason for spark scatter.
 

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So, assuming no changes at the top side (deck, heads, gasket, piston top to wrist pin distance) you slightly decrease displacement with an align bore?
 

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Originally posted by FFRed:
So, assuming no changes at the top side (deck, heads, gasket, piston top to wrist pin distance) you slightly decrease displacement with an align bore?
No. Displacement is soley a calculation determined by Bore and Stroke - of which we have not altered either in an Align-Boring operation. If anything, compression would be increased just as though you had milled the heads or decked the top of the block.

Giff - Why don't you start another topic asking your question. Please be specific about what you want to do with your engine and it's intended purpose (Race, some-race, Quick blasts to scare myself and impress my friends, street only).. Be honest now - Race only engines do not last long or perform well on the street.
I will try to get back online tonight with my take on it.
 
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