I had been looking at the other FF forum and wondered why there was a relative lack of information and experience before I was made aware of this site.
Appreciate the offer. Had read your posts and watched your videos yesterday.. looks like nothing less than great fun..
From what Ive glened the LS3, if its the same mounting points as the LS1/2 needs to be mounted about 2 inches forward to the Windsor engine mounting location. I found a kit in Aus which includes a set of rail mounts, engine mounts, pins and bushes. Id expect I'll need to get it to a roller stage, bolt the engine and transmission together lower it into place and confirm the mount locations once its in position, noting bell housing clearance to the firewall / cross brace.. ?
Re the LS3 crate motor I was looking at along with a TKO600 / T56, are you aware if the 8.8" diff and drive shafts will handle 450bhp and + 400lb ft..? I had read it was rated to 500lb ft, but the article didn't specify the number of splines.
Secondary issue... there anyone who has torsional and beam test data for the Coupe. Is a mandatory requirement for AUS vehicles..?
PM David Borden as I believe he has modeled the roadster frame and should be able to provide some data. The Coupe should be slightly better.
I never tried to keep the LS in the stock position. I slid the TKO tranny mount as far forward as it would go and used that to dictate the position of the engine mounts. When I went to the T56 I moved it 1 more inch forward (for a total of 3" forward of stock) and then used that position to dictate where to weld in the new mounts.
As a far more common build, there is already data for the roadster with the local agent.
Noted re the total forward movement of 3" from stock with a T56. Were you aware of any adverse effects on the handling or noticeable flex moving the mounts this far..?
North: Welcome to the forum. Try this for info on anything FFR related. I found this late in my build on this forum and it has been a great source of technical info. Go to google then enter site:ffcars.com then what you are looking for like site:ffcars.com motor mounts for LS powered Coupe. or site:ffcars.com fitting trans in LS powered Coupe. It is all here you can find info about SAI MOD, sway bars, brakes, wheels and tires, bump steer, etc. Alignment , poly bushings, quad shocks, 5 link, 3 link, IRS etc. Great find for me, you can spend hours reading everything that has been done, I know I did and still do.
HTH
CB
Glazing is an issue in Aus.. the Australian Design Rule (ADR's) require an "e" tick marking on the front and rear screens to be compliant for registration here on all laminated safety glass.
I had a brief reply on the FF site that the front screen for the Coupe was from a Jag. Some research here suggests its an XJS Convertible front screen from the 1980's. Does anyone know the specific year range..?
If this can be identified it makes both the compliance and replacement screen issue an easy one, with a new or salvaged screen easily sourced locally.
Have found no info on the rear screen as yet.
The secondary issue is that all side glass needs to be toughened. The FF kit comes with acrylic or similar. Is there knowledge of a compatible model for side windows..?
Will keep searching.. look forward to any advice that's available..
I don't remember the exact Model/year on the windshield.
The Rear normally is also plexiglass, but FFR now has a rear glass upgrade but not sure if it is DOT rated glass.
Use the same window material that the FFR roadster guys use! There is none...so build the car with no side windows. If that is not possible you could use thick lexan for the rear and sides, but they won't have any certification markings. Maybe call the company that makes Daytona replicas in Australia and see what they use.
Sounds like it will be a Armored vehicle when it is done.
Chris I am not sure if you saw my other thread, but I got the car running today and took it for the 1st ride of 2014. The T56 shifts very nice. I am not used to 6th yet but will get the hang of it. 1st thru 4th are effortless.
Just catching up.. Well done.. Noted re the shifter offset.
I had a question re installing the T6060 (which is over $1500 cheaper than the T56). From what I understand the T6060 is the newer box but is dimensionally different in the bell housing. Are you aware of any issues if I went the 6060..?
Sorry Chris I have been busy working on the car and racing. I blew a hole in the upper coolant hose the other day and am trying to sort it out.
I ran event #1 in my competition's little FWD Isuzu I-Mark RS. Beat him by 2 seconds in his own car. It was my 1st time running a FWD econobox and I had a blast. Here is my best run:
Just because the 6060 BH is larger does not mean it won't fit. The TKO to LS BH is also huge and it fit fine. I had a 12" clutch in it...it is that big! The only obstacle to fit issues is on the crossbar above the BH. It will be an issue if it is too tall.
CCA 'directed' me to FFR. Am making good progress with them.. .
Have most of the answers I need for the moment I think. Am going with the T6060 as its half the price of a T56 over here. As of this morning I managed to sight both boxes bolted to an LS3. The local bell housing is no larger on the T6060 compared to the T56.
Even if some mods are required to the tunnel, $1800 is a lot of welding.. .
Gordon, from Levy Racing advised the LS3 can go forward as far as 4 inches to enable it to fit without compromising the balance as its far lighter than the Windsor motors (Mike had moved his LS1 forward 3 inches to fit a T56).
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