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FFCobra Captain
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11,721 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been collecting parts to put the FE degas tank on my car. I picked up a low mount alternator bracket and am wondering if it's too close to the header/j-pipe.




I can put my finger between the body of the alternator anf the ear on the header. I wrapped the wires in some insulation tape and there is the black loom under that...but the connectors are on the underside closer to the header.



Should I make up a heat shield and bolt it to the stud on the header to try to deflect the heat?
 

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Plodding Along
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2,976 Posts
Dan,

Any chance you can move the alternator to the upper driver's side like the Breeze mount? If so, let me know because I have most of the Breeze parts from a kit I bought from him when I was mocking-up a few different alternatives. You can have the parts for the cost of shipping.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,721 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No....I have the ac compressor over there.
 

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Senior Charter Member
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1,218 Posts
Are you totally committed to J-Pipes or can you switch into 4 into 4 headers?
 

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Junior Charter Member
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325 Posts
Can you Reclock

Not sure about your alternator, but a 3G back can be rotated 120 degrees cw or ccw to position the rear connections in relation to the front mounting.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,721 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
4 into 4 headers....would like to have them, but would spend the money on a soft-top first. Anyone have a free set lying around? :)


Clocking Alternator....didn't know that was an option. I would really like to have the connectors on the top. I tried a google search and came up empty. If anyone knows if this is possible, please let me know.

If I changed to a 3G alternator, is that a direct swap or would I need to change the connectors and also make up new spacers for the mounting bolt that goes through the cylinder head? The spacers I have are setup for the stock alternator.
 

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Official OLD GUY
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3,877 Posts
"Clocking" the Alternator

Dan,

The alternator can be "clocked" 120° at a time in either direction . . . there should be three long screws that hold the front of the alternator to the back with the field coils sandwiched in between. By removing the three long screws, you should be able to rotate the back to whatever position works best for your installation, baring the 120° limitations of the mounting screws. Be carefull you don't pull the alternator apart, just rotate it, or you'll have to reset the springs and brushes on the stator rings . . . not difficult, just frustrating if you've never done it.

HTH

Doc :beerchug:
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,721 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Doc....best news of the day. Thank you.


You guys think I should still put a heat shield down there?
 

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FFCobra Captain
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11,721 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Doc....best news of the day. Thank you.


You guys think I should still put a heat shield down there (after I rotate the alternator to move the connectors)?
 

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Registered
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Yes, it does not cost a lot to make one out of a small section of Aluminum or thin steel you have laying around. Just take a piece of thin cardboard (the side or bottom of a 12 pack works nice, I used a number of them during the 2 years of my build ) cut and bend the metal based on the template and bolt to the pipe. A little extra protection won't hurt.
HTH
CB
 

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I would use some thermal wrap on that area to keep the heat down - excessive heat cooks the diodes and regulators in those alternators and that's awful close - you can also wrap it with the header wrap and then put a thin aluminum shield over it spaced out at leas 1/16" away to create an air gap.
 
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