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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ey All!

I figured rather than lurking and posting randomly I would kick off an official build thread.

Ordered my Base Kit back in March with an August completion date. Hopefully Stewart can get the car here to the Chicago area quickly after they pick it up. I am doing a mix of donor parts, new parts. The goal of this build personally for me is to teach myself and my three kids (C3) about cars and problem solving. With that in mind, I'm starting with the base kit and working up. In my mind the car will NEVER be done. We are starting with the base kit and with Chicago winters there will be plenty of downtime to assess what we don't like, what's broken, or what we want to upgrade and install them.

Factory Five Base Kit
Manual Steering
Body cut outs
Electrical Completion Kit
Rear Koni coil overs

Engine
4.6L 2V
Holley Terminator EFI

Transmission
T45

Rear End
FoxBody 8.8
3.73 gears


A little background on the parts I've acquired.

Engine - I did a lot of searching and research I settled on the 4.6L 2v based on cost and simplicity. It's a mature platform with a rather simple internals. I found an engine out of a 2006 Mercury Grand Marquis that had 106k miles on it that had been totaled out due to a side swipe. I received the engine and did a tear down and found that the cylinders were super clean with no scoring, the bottom end was rock solid. So I cleaned everything up, did a home made hot soak for the cylinder heads and put it all back together and put a coat of lipstick on this ford pig. I also gave it some shiny parts on the covers and intake.

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Also I did spend a bit of money on the Holley TerminatorX ECU system for the engine rather than put a stock harness on a diet. My hopes is that this will simplify install and any troubleshooting that needs to happen to start the beast up.


Transmission - After lots of searching I came upon a T45 Transmission that I found on ebay, through some stroke of luck it was a local salvage yard and by actually calling them it was $200 cheaper than their Ebay Buy It Now and since it was local I was able to save on shipping. Once I received it, I think I may have won the salvage yard lottery. As they loaded in the back of the car, I noticed that the shifter handle was chrome (hmm...thats not stock). Once home I found that it had a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter. Upon further inspection the bottom of the transmission had a big ole "The T45 Source" sticker on the bottom. With some research it looks like that was a T45 Rebuilder out of Atlanta. I ran the transmission through all the gear and no grinding or binding when turning things by hand. I emptied out the trans fluid and it was crystal clear with no glitter to be seen. Fingers crossed that when the drivetrain is assembled everything works out.

Rear End - I was able to find the fox body housing, Differential and New Ring & Pinion gear all through various sources, but total spend on the rear end with a rebuild kit was less than $400. Just have to pick up some 5 lug axles and disc brake brackets but that's a problem for future me to worry about.


I've also acquired front spindles, and suspension bits from random mustang donors in local salvage yards. These have all been given some baths in evaporust, hit with the descaler tool and primed and painted. My goal over the summer is to keep acquiring parts and getting the garage ready to start building.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
On the subject of the rear end, I attempted to install the new ring/pinion and differential last night, and nearly collapsed in exhaustion trying to get the crush sleeve to crush. I was essentially following Eric the car guy's youtube videos on how to rebuild (side note, youtube mechanics have better/stronger tools than I do). I ground out the inside of a sacrificial bearing and went to tighten down the pinion gear and for the life of me could not get it to tighten enough to put load on the bearings. I got the pinion nut to 140 ftlbs but there was still about an 1/8" of play. After tearing everything down 2-3 times I found that the crush sleeve was not crushing. After poking around I found a thread mentioning that Forte sells a spacer and shim set, so I've reached out to him to see if he still sells it. Will post images when it's all done.
 

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welcome! Much respect for those who do a basic kit build. I had limited automotive/mechanic experience and went with a complete kit myself. Looking forward to this build.
 

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Sounds like a good start, but I think you'll find 3:73 gear set to be a poor choice. Unless you'll be drag racing it'll be too low, 3:55 make for a better street driving car. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like a good start, but I think you'll find 3:73 gear set to be a poor choice. Unless you'll be drag racing it'll be too low, 3:55 make for a better street driving car. JMO
Yeah, that was my thought too, but the price is right ($50), and if I have to pull them out later, that's a problem for future me and his checkbook.
 

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FFCobra Captain
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What part of Chicago?

I'll be up in Highland Park for a few months late summer - early fall. Would love to get my hands dirty helping with a build while I'm up there. My labor charge will be cheap (beer or diet mountain dew).
 

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FFCobra Captain
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Yeah, that was my thought too, but the price is right ($50), and if I have to pull them out later, that's a problem for future me and his checkbook.
I had stock 2.xx (whatever stock was in a 93mustang) gears in my first build with a donor 302. I changed to 3.73 because I got them dirt cheap from a member (maybe free...I don't remember) and it really woke up feeling of the car a lot. Sure, first gear was a bit short, but it wasn't bad. I wound up putting a supercharger on my car and first gear went real fast...I should have changed to 3.55s when I did the supercharger, but I was used to the 3.73s, so I kept them.

Just keep in mind that if you really beef up the motor, plan on doing gears too to get the best driving experience.
 

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You'll find you have to use the stock exhaust manifolds. they don't make headers for that one any longer. I tried many sources. J pipe to exhaust pipe works just fine. I even bought the bbk shorty's but when you turn them over they interfere with the engine mount pretty severely.

I went 4.62v also.

Have fun with the build!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You'll find you have to use the stock exhaust manifolds. they don't make headers for that one any longer. I tried many sources. J pipe to exhaust pipe works just fine. I even bought the bbk shorty's but when you turn them over they interfere with the engine mount pretty severely.

I went 4.62v also.

Have fun with the build!
Yeah the build instructions state to just flip the stock manifolds upside down. I was saving the header question for later in the build, so I appreciate the insight!
 

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You can by an EGR delete cap off ebay for a couple bucks to close that hole in the left header.
 

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That intake manifold looks too high! I think your hood will not close, what’s the measure that from the top corner of your valve cover to the top? I have the same engine and valve covers so I can check.
 

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I haven't worked w/ those engines at all but I like what I see in the pic. It is so much narrower than the current DOHC engines. These could be a really nice way to get next generation build technology compared to a 302 or 351. By build technology I mean things like better, more modern, gasket and seal design, better nuts and bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That intake manifold looks too high! I think your hood will not close, what’s the measure that from the top corner of your valve cover to the top? I have the same engine and valve covers so I can check.
gah! I didn’t even think about that. Looks to be about 7.75”
 

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gah! I didn’t even think about that. Looks to be about 7.75”
362920


I think your'e good. same engine measured from same spot. similar valve covers. I routed to the top and made my filter sit in the scoop. I do have solid engine mounts but am swapping back to traditional as the oil pan is too low for my liking. I didn't drop a board on it to get perfect measure but this fits the standard ffr scoop by about an inch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
View attachment 362920

I think your'e good. same engine measured from same spot. similar valve covers. I routed to the top and made my filter sit in the scoop. I do have solid engine mounts but am swapping back to traditional as the oil pan is too low for my liking. I didn't drop a board on it to get perfect measure but this fits the standard ffr scoop by about an inch.
Thanks! Worst case scenario is that I buy the standard Ford performance intake and put the the edelbrock on ebay
 

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Livewire, I checked mine and its 6 1/4" but I closed the hood and looked in the scoop and there's plenty of room! sorry to worry you. Karl
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Rear end rebuild complete! Was able to get the pinion bearing installed by putting the pinion in the feeezer for 24hrs and the bearing in 215degree oven for 30min. A little tap later and it was installed! No press needed. Hit pinion shim with my first try, a spacer with shims instead of crush sleeve is a must. Took very little tweaking but I got my gear pattern spot on. Almost had a problem for my future self when I noticed the disc brake brackets were on backwards after I had buttoned everything up. Quick and oily mess later everything was where it should be. My bushing tool was perfect for installing lug studs, but my god what a pain in the ass!
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Something doesn't look right, is that an open differential? I don't see the springs, or is it not a ford lsd?
 
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