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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a pair of '82-'90 (not sure year) Lincoln MK VII rear brake rotors/calipers/brackets that I'm using for a disk upgrade for my rear brakes. The pieces were sitting for a while so everything's not coming apart all that easily.

I have the caliper off one of the rotors, but can't move the piston to get the caliper apart. On the other side the brakes are stuck on, and so the caliper is jammed onto the rotor.

To my knowledge these brake pistons screw in, but I thought that was just to get them on, then they push in. These don't want to move.

There is also what looks like a big nut on the back of the caliper behind the cylinder. The parking brake lever is bolted to this piece. Can I unscrew this to help free up or remover the piston?

I may be buy a manual, but they don't always tell you the more detailed aspects of rebuilding, so thought I'd ask here first.

Thanks for any help on this.

Garnet
 

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section 8
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5,136 Posts
Save the trouble I went through this ,they will not work on the car without narrowing the rear . The calipers do screw in but the always rot solid and if you do get them to move they will leak. The most cost effective way to get rear disc on the car is to call Richard Oben at North Racecars get his brackets, cables. and hoses/bolts . Then hit Napa for drilled and slotted Cobra rear rotors about $70ea us and possibly some used calipers or new if your feeling wealthy. Richard gets I think 150 for the brackets . I have them on my MK111 and with a 10.5 wheel and 315 tires they are well into the well so no clearance issues. If you have the housing from the lincoln you cn use it providing you get the correct axles also available from Richard. Call him or email . It's either that or one off custom wheels. bob
 

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section 8
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uhh forgot if you are going to use the housing be sure it's an 8.8 early cars came with the lame 7.5 Bob
 

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Junior Charter Member
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Bob, but I have the stock Mustang housing with Ranger axles, these brake components will bolt on with some modifications...if I can get them apart and working.
 

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section 8
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they will definately bolt on I've done it and it works great on Mustangs. Problem is even if you have a MK111 with the wide rear fenders that setup puts the middle of the wheel right even with the fender lip. So it's custom all the way. You'll need to move the brackets from side to side and do some other questionable (safety wise) modifications.There were some postings on how to do it . If you are planning on rebuilding the calipers yourself, last time I checked the prats were more than buying a reman. Good luck. The easiest way to get it to work if you must have those brakes is to narrow the housing and shorten the axles. Call Richard Oben for Advice. Bob
 

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I have a pair of new calipers and rotors you can have for $20 a pair. for lincoln mk7 ...I also have the brackets in as new condition.
 

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he who lives by the sword. gets shot by those who
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Garnet,
How goes it? Not using the IRS yet? I know for a fact those calipers have to turn as well as being clamped at the same time to compress them, there is a special tool just for that purpose. Hope this helps!
Ben :D
:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bob, if I'm using the Mustang rear and (Ranger) axles, why would it move the wheel out? The rotor is flush against the axle facing just like the drum is.

I've read the posts your referring to, so understand what your saying about moving from side to side and the mods needed. It said it maintained the same width.??

Thanks again.

Mark, PM sent.

Ben, ya pretty slow eh? I just about have all the parts, just need the cage. At this point I thought I'd wait 'till autox season was over so I don't miss any events. This brake mod was supposed to be a simple upgrade for the summer. Hope things are good.

Garnet
 

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FFCobra Craftsman
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Garnet, I have that set up and had to disassemble the calipers. They turn on a screw that's inside. They do push in and out, but very little. Take the arm off on the back, unscrew the big nut. Went you remove thar assembly there will be a disk with three odd shaped round holes. It's rotation is locked with a pin in the side, you'll see the end of it. Pull the pin with small needle nose pliers or tap the caliper on a piece of wood to dislodge it, then unscrew the round disk out and the piston can be pushed in or out. If it can't be moved it's because of rust and might need a little more effort. Mine didn't effect the wheel spacing, and the small size of the caliper affords more wheel clearance. They will have to be mounted towards the front of the axle, but that's how they were on the lincoln. I put a proportioning valve in also because in therory they should be more than enough rear brake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Einar, got one side apart as you descrbed. The other is very stubborn, that nut on the back doesn't want to move, I think because of the force of the jammed parking brake pushing against it. I'll get a bigger bar and see if that helps.

One other dumb questions; how do you get the pads out? The tab on the outer brake pad stops the two caliper components from coming apart.

Thanks again.

Garnet
 
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