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Engimuneer Extraordinaire
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FFCobra Fanatic
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I'm wondering if there are any other "4.6 stealth donors" out there, I'm thinking late model Aviators,Explorers does anyone know much about the brakes and independent suspensions on these?
And how about the Expedition stuff?
of course the trans would be useless but good to sell, as well as other parts
 

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Engimuneer Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter #3
Junkyards sell Mark VIII engines for $400-600 up in NE. No other all aluminum DOHC Modulars available for that price! Seen quite a few cars go for <$800. I can almost guarantee the brakes & suspension components of stuff like the Aviator & Explorer won't just bolt up. Probably would only be good for their engines.
 

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Is there any way to get a copy of the Lincoln donor list without downloading?

I'm really loathe to intentionally download files directly from unfamiliar web sites.
 

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SuperCobra 1
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14,690 Posts
Gonna post it in 6 parts - Part 1

Lincoln Mark VIII [FN10] Guide


By: John Brackett


I’ve put together this sheet with the hope of saving many of you time searching on forums. I have tried to put as many options out there on the table, not just the route I plan on taking. This should be a guide to help you decide what is right for you, I really hope someone finds this useful.

My planned engine mods:
Base engine – 95 Mark VIII 4.6L DOHC
PS/AC elimination
96-98 Cobra stock exhaust manifolds $40
Polish & gasket matching of IMRCs, intake manifold & heads.
Port & Polish on the exhaust side

If power band drops off too far before red line:
Cobra intake – mild P&P, gasket matching $6-800 25hp
(great articles in this document about what is needed to do this swap)
Cam swap (options are in this document)

Helpful Links:
Year-to-year Comparison of the Lincoln Mark VIII [I don’t believe the brake rotor diameters are correct, see ‘Brakes’ section]
http://www.markviii.org/info/specsmain.html

5 speed swaps
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/577667/2
http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=10&topic_id=55051&mesg_id=55051&listing_type=search
http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=21&topic_id=53614&mesg_id=53614&listing_type=search

Cobra Intake on Gen 1 using stock vacuum IMRCs
http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=21&topic_id=45215&mesg_id=45215&listing_type=search

Gen 2 Mark VIII with Cobra Intake (has dyno results)
http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=21&topic_id=65893&mesg_id=65893&listing_type=search

http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=21&topic_id=58038&mesg_id=&page=&mode=full

Converting Mark VIII to non Cobra PBR calipers (only useful if using stock spindles, which I have no knowledge about)
http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=20&topic_id=3405&mesg_id=3405&listing_type=search

Engine
6k RPM redline [can handle at least 7k]
80mm MAF
Dual ??mm TB

93-95
EEC-IV

96-98
EEC-V/OBD-II

93-98
9.8:1 CR
280hp @ 5500rpm
285tq @ 4500rpm

95-98 LSC model
9.9:1 CR
290hp @ 5750rpm
295tq @ 4500rpm

Mark DOHC comes with 24 lb injectors and 190 pump from the factory.

Personal notes:
Even though the stock Mark VIII engine makes less hp than the 96-98 Cobra. I believe the better flowing exhaust (no pre-cat exhaust manifolds along w/ the FFR J-pipe/Cat converter/4 into 4) will provide a good boost in power and extend the power band higher into the RPM range. The LSC model is listed as having a .1 higher compression, but the power increase is said to come from the true dual exhaust.
Mark VIII’s typically hit a brick wall around 5500 RPM, I plan on going to at least 6500 RPM w/ the stock engine so something must be done to extend the power range.
Degree the camshafts when the engine is out of the donor, they can be off spec by quite a bit. Before doing that, research what recommended settings are and what others have done. Don’t quote me on this, but I believe you are supposed to increase the duration between the cams.
Keep the IMRCs. The ports on the B-head 4.6L are very large, and too much velocity would be lost on the low end. I very much doubt that removing them would provide much more power on the top end either.

‘Kerry & Kathy’s’ input on year selection
95-96 Mark because:
1. No PATS
2. Early style intake, which is reportedly less restrictive than the 97-98 manifolds.
3. Lincoln changed valve guide seals in early 95 to the same size used on the 96-98 Cobra. The 93-94 seals are harder to find and if the late seal is used with the early head...they will leak oil.
4. The 95-96 Marks are less expensive as donor cars than the 97-98 later body style.
5. The 95-96 Marks generally have fewer miles than the earlier 93-94 models.
6. The 96 models have an added advantage, same conical valve springs & retainers used in 96-98 Cobra DOHC. This is a superior valve spring and retainer combination. However they can easily be retrofitted to the earlier Marks.
 

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SuperCobra 1
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14,690 Posts
Gonna post it in 6 parts - Part 2

Manual Transmission:
Fasterpatrick (FFCars.com): Bolted T45/3650 to Mark VIII engine for his FFR
Says need Mustang GT flywheel, clutch, and spacer shim. I mentioned you also need a pilot bearing
Clutch cable from?
T45 driveshaft [I do not know if yoke is different on the auto tranny]
96-98 have mechanical speedometer, 99+ went electronic
Need transmission close out plate that goes between engine & tranny

Intake:
Quick Snake: claims to have run w/ 2 different short runners and not gotten more power.

Throttle cable from Gen 2 will work w/ Cobra intake, Gen 1 is too short in a Mark VIII. (for FFR?)
Have to alter the Gen2 throttle cable bracket for Cobra intake

Gen1 (93-96)
Throttle body located close to the firewall & points straight up
Runner size & length optimized for the idle to 5500 rpm performance range. Not recommended for engines designed to raise operating range above 6k rpm.
Can see some gains with port matching to head & IMRCs

Gen2 (97-98)
Design is a bit crap. Runners favor the secondaries on some cylinders, the primaries on others, some are equally distributed. Does not have separate runners like Gen1. TB to plenum transition is choked. [Eli of Mark8.org].
TB is at the same location as Cobra. Taller than Gen1.
Went to cable actuated IMRCs

Cobra (96-98)
SnakedMark8 [modulardepot]: Claims 25-30 hp from Cobra intake swap alone. Has dyno numbers to prove it. Took 18 hours to do the swap on a 95.

Ponyfreak (Joe) on mark8.org did his own sheetmetal intake. Considered ‘expert’ on Gen 1 intakes
Made 312rwhp with a stock 125k mi short block, ported heads, cobra intake and stage 3 Sean Hyland regrinds through a 4R70W [auto] in a red 94 Mark VIII.

Lonnie of Blueovalchips.com (Posts from 03)
All I have to add to this is my car based at 224 rwhp completely stock. And now it's at 279 rwhp and 305 rwtq with a Cobra intake. That right with the Cobras and Machs but through an automatic. – 95 Mark VIII (currently 287 rwhp, 305 rwtq in his )

Without a tune I gained about 25 rwhp. With a tune I was up 32 with 91 octane. And now you see the results with a bone stock engine with the only mods being an EEC V, 96 exhaust manifolds including the secondary air system. I was forced to remove the U/D pulleys, CAI, MSD ignition and add 4 more cats by the state. With all that I'm still producing good numbers. Just think what I would be doing with my old exhaust system, and the stuff I removed.

I just tracked down all my dyno sheets so now I have an accurate comparison for you.
Completely stock right down to the paper air filter 220 rwhp, 240 rwtq
2 1/2" true duals, Cobra intake, U/D pulleys, no tune 237 rwhp, 251 rwtq
Dyno tuned 247 rwhp, 280 rwtq
2 1/2" true duals+….. dyno tuned 272 rwhp, 291 rwtq

Removal of front half existing exhaust, replaced with stock 98 Cobra H pipe. This pipe averages 2" but in some places it's down to 1 7/8s. This H pipe includes 4 more cats making a total of 6 cats. The installation of 96 Mark exhaust manifolds. These are cast iron and smaller than the 93 - 95 tubular type. The removal of the MSD, CAI and U/D pulleys. The installation of the EEC V and all it's associated sensors and equipment. Dyno tuned 279 rwhp, 305 rwtq

The Cobra intake installed on the car is completely stock except for the polishing on the outside. You can expect to pay anywhere from $300 to $600 for port work.

(another post from 03)
With the EEC IV it laid down 274 rwhp and 291. This was with my good free flowing exhaust, Cobra intake, CAI, MSD, UD pulleys and 12C plugs.

Now this is a testimony to this new tuning stuff of Jerry’s and as Jerry said going to the EEC V helped since it has more controlling parameters that can be adjusted. Now this is with 6 fricken cats, that’s 4 more than before and smaller dia. pipe. They made me install a factory Cobra H-pipe, it’s about 2” dia compared to my 2 ½ mandrel bent system. And now with all the smog crap on it with smaller later style cast iron exh manifolds so I could install air injection and no UD pulleys, MSD, CAI. The car put down 279.5 rwhp and 305 ft lbs. Look at that torque curve, now that is a flat. I couldn’t believe it for a NA 4V completely stock with a Cobra intake.

96-98 Cobra intake swap
Gen 1 cruise control cables are long enough.
Need Cobra or Gen2 IMRC plates (can swap the shafts from the Gen1 plates to the cobra plates).

Parts needed:
Cobra upper & lower intake
Mounting bolts
IMRCs with controller box
Sensors

Preferred accessories:
Cobra fuel rail
Cobra TB, MAF, air intake tube
Throttle cable

New parts:
IMRC-head gasket
IMRC-intake gasket
TB gasket
Injector o-rings & filters
Coolant crossover tube o-rings

Mad1stGen (modulardepot.com, owns a 95) http://mark8.org/users/madstgen/images/intake_swap/

Ajones51 – on a Gen2
Took 4 hours with some help. Car dyno’d 245hp & 250tq w/ Cobra intake & 2.5” mandrel exhaust.

96-98 cobra intake (upper and lower)
IMRC to head & IMRC to intake gaskets
Injector O-rings
Coolant crossover tube o-rings
96-98 Cobra intake tube from air filter to TB
IAC tube from 96-98 cobra


Mark VIII fuel rails – had to cut off EGR spout that sticks out of Cobra intake. Deleted EGR completely. FPR sets under the spout and is inaccessible if EGR installed.
OR
Cobra fuel rails – require creation of special fuel lines to hook into factory fuel system

Extend the wiring for the IAC and TPS.
Some vacuum lines will need to be rerouted.
Have to modify the TB bracket that holds the throttle cable.


Jeremi –
You'll need about $600 -$750 for all the used parts plus some new gaskets, sensors and about 10-14 hrs to do the swap. Complete intake, rails, tb, intake tube, connectors, most sensors, throttle cable (we are talking cobra parts).


Robman2 – on a Gen2
1. Patience, mechanical, fabrication skills and good tools.
2. 96-98 Cobra intake
3. 96-98 Cobra intake tube from TB to MAF as the 2nd Gen WILL NOT WORK.
4. Re-use the Marks 2nd Gen TB by flipping it 180 degrees and bolting it to the Cobra upper intake, re-using the Mark TB will prevent you from having to swap your throttle cables
5. 97-98 Mark Fuel rails work, but you must bend them a little and cannot use an EGR valve with them.
6. Either cap the EGR pipe with 3/4 Pipe cap or replace the EGR Tube with one from a Cobra
10. You will need about 4 5/8 Vac Tees and 4ft of 5/8 hose
12. Remove the alternator, NOTE just remove the water pipe and upper alt bolts, then loosen the bolts at the base of the alt behind the water pump pulley, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE LOWER BOLTS the alternator is slotted, this will prevent you from having to pull the water pump pully etc, especially if you have underdrives.
13.Make sure you lubricate the injector O-Rings before reseating them into the IMRC plates or YOU WILL PINCH THEM, also I sprayed mine when I removed them so they wouldn’t dry out overnight.
14. You will need 8 bolts for the upper intake, and 2 shorter bolts for the rear of the intake as the 2nd Gen rear bolts are too long for the Cobra intake, I think they were 10mm x 1.25 pitch, # 45's I used they are about an inch shorter.
15. Intake Gaskets for Upper and Lower 96-98 Cobra, about 40 bucks at Ford house.
16. You will need to lengthen the wiring for the IAT and the TPS by about 6-8 inches
17. The throttle bracket must be fabbed, I used both the Cobra one and the 2nd Gen one in a unique fashion that I cannot describe but they work perfect, are bolted tight etc. and provide the correct alignment and angle.
Also here you MUST route the 5/8 pipe with hose back to the intake tube by the throttle body, or the IAC motor will pull in UNMETERED AIR causing a severe vac leak, car wont run backfires etc..
If you're in the planning stages right now, here are some things to start collecting:
-TB gasket
-EGR gasket
-EGR block off plate (got mine at www.uprproducts.com ($10)
-IAC valve gaskets are impossible to find, so reuse yours or buy some gasket material and make one
-16 fuel injector o-rings
-Gaskets between head and IMRC for the Mark VIII, NOT the Cobra (Cobra used different IMRC) I reused mine
-Gaskets between manifold and IMRC for the Cobra (about $17 each)
-Gasket for manifold top (about $40)
-IAC crossover tube, Ford PN# F6ZZ-9H308-BD should be about $31.00
-Wiring & connectors to lengthen IAT and TPS sensors, plus wire loom to cover it (about 18" for IAT and 12" for TPS)
-Two feet of 3/8 ID vacuum tubing
-3/8" OD vacuum "T"
-12"+ of about 3/4" vacuum hose. Check this diameter against the breather tube on the rear of RH valve cover
-1/8" vacuum caps (you only need one but they come in packages of 5-10.
-O-rings for coolant crossover tube. There are three, one on each end and one in the middle. This tube is actually two pieces.
-You can use a cone filter on the MAF or acquire the Cobra box, which may be the same as newer GT's.
-The bolts to hold the manifold top on are metric. I used M6 x 16mm, with 1.00mm thread pitch and a M6 metric washer. You may wish to use longer bolts to add more washers or as a preference, but these are the minimum for one washer. The EGR valve bolts are M8 dia. with I believe 1.25mm thread pitch. These can be short (say 12mm) as they only need to fasten the EGR block off plate. Otherwise, most of the other bolts used to attach everything are the M6 diameter w/1.00mm thread pitch. I'd recommend finding a hardware store with a GOOD selection of metric hardware you can try and bring the manifold with you to double check what you'll need. The genius I bought my manifold from had no hardware, so I had to buy literally every bolt.
-Pick up a few cans of B12 Chemtool to soak the injectors at the very least. Mine were filthy but operate 100% better now with a three hour soak. Check out this webpage for more in-depth cleaning: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=82
-Also grab a gallon of concentrated simple green and a pan that can fit the IMRCs. Soak them then brush/scrape out ALL of the carbon before re-installation.
-You may want to buy or make a IAC restrictor plate, as I've found that the engine RPM jumps way up to 2000RPM on cold starts - not good for the timing chain tensioners.
-The Mark fuel rails will work, but they BARELY fit. You will not be able to access the schraeder valve, and you may have to bend the LH side out a little to clear the stud on the pressure regulator (it buts up against the EGR mount on the upper manifold). If you want to use the Cobra rails, you'll need to construct fuel lines from the fuel filter up to the rails. This involves about 3 feet of AN line, with the special -6 and -8 AN fittings to mate to the rails - these are widely available from Summit/Jegs/etc. I am not sure what fittings you'll need for the filter side of things...Jeremi should know this as he's made the lines before. I'd recommend spending the extra money and using the Cobra lines...I plan to eventually, but the mark ones work for now. I just have to take the upper manifold off to release fuel pressure!

There is definitely a lot of tedious work involved with this swap so make sure you have everything collected and planned out ahead of time, and a helper is definitely great to have. I was fortunate to have my good friend Eric (95BLKLSC on the forums) help me. Also be aware that this project gets expensive VERY quickly. You can find the manifold itself for between $250-$500 depending on condition and included parts. After it was all said and done, I'd say I spent about $600-$700 and I got everything for decent (but not bargain) prices.
-Domenic
IMRCs
Open at 3200 rpm.
There are 3 versions of the IMRC's for the Mark VIII. The first version was the 93-95 with the circular ports from the never produced "A" heads. The IMRC's are vacuum operated. In 96, they changed the way the IMRC's were wired but pretty much the same as 93-95. In 97, they changed the actual design of the ports and made them bigger, also made the IMRC's plastic. They are the same design as the 98 Cobra and are considered to be the best for performance purposes. The 96/97 Cobra has the same ports but are made of aluminum, not plastic. What's better on the Gen1 intake is the design of the runners but the IMRC's are the older, inferior design.

94m5 (lincolnsvscadillac.com response to Cobra intake onto 95 Mark VIII)
97-98 IMRCS will work. They are actually preferred over the early cobra units due to their composite design (less heat transfer).

IMRC activation options
DIS4 and a 3000 window switch to activate the IMRC
Much easier to do tach adaptor and rpm activation switch (window switch). You don't need the DIS4.
Cobra controller box & a simple automotive relay

Exhaust:
Driver’s side header for Mark is part of the cat. For an FFR, need stock 96-98 Cobra manifolds or shorty headers.
LSC got dual exhaust, that’s why it makes more power
Shorty headers only add 3-5 hp on Cobra DOHC engines; however, they extend the power band.

Wiring:
To swap to manual, only need to connect manual lever position switch, speedo sensor, and 1 big black connector. I have a document saved with the manual lever position switch layout.
http://www.markviii.org/LOD2/bonneville.htm

On your auto car there is a switch in the tranny which allows you to start the car when the car is in Park only. In a manual car you have switches both in the tranny (Neutral Switch) and on the clutch that are part of the start circuit.
 

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SuperCobra 1
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14,690 Posts
Gonna post it in 6 parts - Part 3

Brakes
Stock Master Cylinder: Seen 1” & 1 1/16” offered from Rock Auto

According to Year-to-Year guide
93-95 11.4” vented discs up front, 10” vented discs in rear 40mm offset
96-98 11.5” vented discs up front, 10.125” vented discs in rear 40mm offset

2 other parts sources say 11.57” front, for 93-97, 10.16” rear
2.6” (66mm) front caliper, 1.78” (45mm) rear
[I believe the 11.57” & 10.16” are correct from further reading]

Personal thoughts:
MC- 84 Jeep Cherokee 15/16” dia

Front- 94-95 Mustang front spindle
94+ Mustang front hub
94+ Mustang 10.8” front rotor (or Mark VII 11.375” front rotor)
99+ PBR 45mm dual piston caliper (or 94-98 Mustang 66mm or Mark VII 73mm)

Rear- Stock rear hub re-drilled & studded (or 99 Cobra)
99 Cobra 11.65” rear rotor (requires hub-centric ring [not verified])
MK8 45mm rear caliper (requires custom bracket [Fast Ed’s found below])

Typically stock caliper relocation brackets are used with cobra rotors re-drilled to the M8 bolt pattern. This has proven to be the easiest setup, as it retains the stock caliper and keeps the parking brake functional without modification. You can also go to cobra calipers, but, you lose the parking brake (without modification) and actually get a smaller caliper that provides less surface area.

Cobra brake upgrade: 13” front, 11.65” rear, 45mm offset in rear (5 more than Mark)
Calipers, rotors & front hubs with the Mustang lug pattern, any 94-04 v6/v8 Mustang front hubs will work, just make sure they have the ABS exciter ring, as ABS was an option on the Mustang. 1997-04 Cobra all use the 13 inch rotors & PBR dual piston calipers. Rock Auto has the best Price on the 13" Rotors- $19 each! Raybestos even!
The Calipers bolt right up- you have to grind the metal end on the passenger side brake hose to fit the caliper. You could get the rotors re-drilled to the mark 8 bolt pattern, but the rotor has to be hub-centric mounted, too. The mark 8 has a 63.4mm hub center, the mustang has a 70.5mm center. You would have to get hub-centric rings custom made. Offset is also different.

Rear bracket (Fast Ed’s) – [Needs picture]
3/16 plate steel and 4 12mm x 1.75 nuts. After cutting the bracket to shape with a saber saw, I used a drum sander for the final shaping. I used the holes in the knuckle to locate two of the mounting holes and marked the location of the other two 19mm adjacent. After drilling the four holes on my drill press with a 15/32” bit, I chamfered the holes and used a flat file to ensure that the plate was flat. I then welded one pair of nuts to the rear of the plate, with the flats parallel to the centerline of the mounting holes. These nuts will be used to mount the bracket to the knuckle. I welded the other pair of nuts to the front of the bracket, again with the flats parallel to the centerline of the mounting holes, and drilled them out with the same 15/32” bit as they are used only as spacers. 10mm tall nuts.

99 Cobra rear calipers on Gen2 Mark (from posting)
Wants to use 1999 Mustang Cobra hubs, rotors, and calipers
The hookup for the parking brake is different and the cobra calipers have NO advantage over the Mark VIII calipers. It only makes sense to switch to the bigger rotors.

Two ways to go.
1. Mustang Hubs, 17" or greater Mustang wheels, rotor, caliper.
or
2. Stock Mark VIII hubs, new Mark VIII bolt pattern wheels 17" or greater, redrilled rotor, caliper.
SO, you can either change the hubs, or redrill the rotors.

Advantage to the mustang is there are WAY more wheels available. Advantage to the Mark 8 is you don't have to change the hub, and you have stock bolt pattern if you want to revert, but, honestly, just about all our cars at this age NEED the hubs replaced since the bearing is non-serviceable.

Bolt Pattern
93-98 Mark 8 & 89-97 T-bird/Cougar have 5 x 4.25 (common for FWD).
Mustang is 5 x 4.5
Mustang studs are ½-20 (larger) – included in the FFR kit
FFR supplies new studs with the IRS kit according to their “Brakeadvice” page

http://home.comcast.net/~dlfraleigh/Article.html
 

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SuperCobra 1
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14,690 Posts
Gonna post it in 6 parts - Part 4

To change bolt pattern:
Front: Mustang front hubs are direct bolt on. Need hubs, rotors, calipers.

Rear: 99 Cobra rear hubs or re-drill stock w/ new bolt pattern. Need T-bird calipers & rotors. Rotors will have to be re-drilled for the new hubs & center hole in rotor will have to be enlarged.

Front:
94-04 Mustang front hubs
94-04 Mustang front rotors
94-04 Mustang front calipers
Rear:
99-04 IRS Cobra rear hubs
MN12 (T-bird) rear disc brake spindles*
MN12 rear brake rotors (re-drilled)*
MN12 rear calipers*
*only need if you have rear drum brakes
You can also use FN10 (Mark VIII) rear spindles calipers and rotors, but you cannot interchange them with MN12 parts. The FN10 brakes are slightly larger.

IRS
Mark VIII IRS has an aluminum carrier and is 20 lbf lighter; however, it is a non-posi-traction, 28 spline diff.

From what I have read, swapping in any Ford 8.8” posi-traction, 28 spline diff requires no machining. The stock Mark VIII diff has 2 grooves cut for C-clips, 3 sources have said these do not need to be machined into the new differential (no links, sorry)

Gears
Stock rear gears are 3.07 for 97 (& base models)
LSC gears are 3.27

Driveshaft
Early 93 has 1 piece aluminum w/ both ends welded
Late 93-98 have 2 piece with 1 end welded & the other….?

ABS
90s Ford 4-channel ABS sensors and exciter rings are based on a 50 tooth ring. Diameter does not matter. Front and rear rings are all 50 teeth across the line. Mustang SN95, T-Bird and Lincoln hub rings are compatible. ABS module is a separate, stand-alone unit.

Cams
Speculation (nothing verified, tough to find correct numbers)
Specs on MK8 cams and 03 Cobra/Mach 1 cams are almost exactly the same! Just .010” more lift on Cobra’s exhaust cams.
The 96-01 cams are the best for an NA setup. Putting them in place of Mark VIII cams might give you 5-10hp in the upper rpm range.
Kerry: 10 deg less duration than Cobra with the same lift. Exhausts are the same

The cams are probably different between 93-98 & 99+. SHM claims that 93-98 cams had a 3 degree offset ground into the intake (to open the primary intake before the secondary intake port). Also, '93-'00 engines used a 12mm cambolt while '01 and up used a 10mm cambolt. Cam gears may be different as well (assuming you want to run the later "C" cams vs. the "B" cams). If you use your existing '98 injectors, you shouldn't have any wiring harness problems. Sensor positions for water temp may not be in the same position.

From what I understand, the MK VIII cams are the worst 4V cams for a performance oriented car. The 03/04 cams were designed to produce more mid-range torque and still breathe pretty well on top. Hence, the Navigator intake cam and Cobra exhaust cam combination. Do you know how much of a difference it will make? NO. The Cobra intake swap is alot of work too. People still do it because it works. From what I understand a stock Mach 1 is a pretty torque car. I'm sure it has something to do with the cams too? I am sure a full set of 96'-01' Cobra cams would be a nice upgrade on a MK VIII too

Dsmgeek –
The Mach I intake cams are the same as the 5.4 Nav, according to multiple sources -- the exhaust I'm having trouble finding much on.

Coldasice –
The Mach 1 or Aviator cams are almost exactly the same cams as are in your mark viii motor... the 96-98 Cobra cams are the most aggressive cams stock on the intake side. All DOHC exhaust cams are basically the same.

Like I said the 96-98 Cobra cams are the best stock cams and can be picked up for pretty cheap. If your car is a 93-95, you should get the updated Beehive valve springs as well. Don't expect big gains though.

01 Cobra cams are the second most aggressive stock DOHC cams.

I know for a fact (based on Boss330) that Mach 1 cams are the same specs as Mark VIII cams so I would assume at least the Maurader and Aviator cams are the same as well. The blown 03 Cobra cams might be slightly different but I doubt it. You are correct by saying swapping to 96-01 Cobra cams might give more top end horsepower but not enough to make a big difference. If getting cams, aftermarket is the only way to go in my opinion. Also, my 95 Mark VIII made peak horsepower at 6300rpm on a Dynojet with only bolt ons, stock cams, stock Gen 1 intake manifold, stock internals period.

Modular Ford
Cammin 4.6 - Michael from L&M Machine led me to believe that the Mach1, '03 Cobra, and Aviator cams (which are all the same) are the best Ford cams out for NA engines.

Fourcam330 - I've yet to hear of anyone swapping Cobra exhaust cams for Navi's, however on the intake side it seems to be a decent swap for lowering HP/TQ peaks (rpm wise).

99/01 Cobras have the same Int/Exh cams.
Navigators (98+) have the same Int/Exh cams.
'03 DOHC powered vehicles (Cobra, Mach1, Marauder, Aviator) all use Navigator intake cams and 99/01 Cobra exhaust cams.
The Navi Int/99-01 Cobra Exh. combo yields peak at a lower rpm, but is it better than an all Cobra cam setup? I don't know of anyone running a full compliment of 99/01 Cobra cams with '03 DOHC heads on a near stock motor for comparisons sake.

NASVT & PGreenSVT- The 96-98 cams are the best of all the Cobra cams. The 99/01 cams come in second and the 03/04 cams are the least aggressive.

JW –
The reason I recommend Navigator intake cams with a centrifigual blower is simple. With these blowers you don't gain any low end torque, in fact, you may even lose some. On top of that, people like to delete the IMRC's with blowers. So now you have a car that makes considerable less torque below 3000 rpm than before. You can do one of several things. You can just suck it up and do nothing to get it back. You can put in steep gears and a high stall converter, or you can change the intake cam to the milder navigator cam which gains you considerable low end torque back.

Before all you "experts" tell me the cobra intake cam is better, let's look at the Mach 1 Mustang. It will have more torque than a N/A cobra and only lose around 5 peak HP. But, the car is way faster than an N/A cobra since the cams make so much more low end, the car accelerates so much harder. It's not about peak numbers (unless you just like bragging about some dyno number) it's about area under the curve. Look at the rpm you launch at and the RPM you shift at. You want the most area under that curve for greatest acceleration. In fact if you want to talk about ET's, which again is NOT an indication of HP, you really want area under the curve for the fist 100-150 ft of the 1/4 mile. Make power here and you'll run a much better ET even if you have not gained any power on the top end.

Now, with a blower you make alot of power up high. In reality, with cars as heavy as these, the difference between 400 and 425 RWHP is pretty small from a 1/4 standpoint. So, if the car is street driven daily (not like my 900+ HP Oldsmobile that see's "limited" street use) you gain a decent amount of low end where you drive it all the time and give up a little up top. I would make this trade off unless size does matter to you and not how you use it.

The Mach 1 will probably make over 300 ft-lbs at the crank at 2000 rpm and in the 335 range for a peak number. Now, for that extra 5 or so peak HP, lets kill about 15-20 ft-lbs of torque everywhere.

96-98 Cam Specs:
Intake: Primary Lobe 196 duration (at .050)/ 390 lift
Secondary Lobe 206 duration (at .050)/ 390 lift
Exhaust: 196 duration / 390 lift (at .050)
114° LCs

99/01 Cam Specs:
Intake: 194 duration (at .050) / 392 lift
Exhaust: 194 duration (at .050)/ 390 lift
114° LCs


Mach 1, 03/04 Cobra, Aviator, Marauder.
Intake: 184 deg @ .050"/0.394" lift
Exhaust: 196 deg @ .050 / .394" lift
114° LCs

FR500 Cams
lift, .472 “ [12mm] both intake and exhaust
intake duration adv 258, [email protected]
exhaust duration adv 254, [email protected]
109° LCs

2000 Cobra R:
intake: 212 [email protected]/.510
exhaust: 212 [email protected] /.474


From SVT - 2001
Intake Exhaust
Duration 256 250
Valve Open 6 BTDC 54 BBDC
Valve Close 70 ABDC 16 ATDC

The Mark8 cams just have less lift than the cobra cams. So you can get 96-98 intake cams and mach 1 cams for a best OEM cam setup. But at that point might as well throw some crowers or comp cams in it. –Mark

99 Cobra engine & tranny swap
http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=21&topic_id=60213&mesg_id=&page=&mode=full
The problem is that your 1993 Mark has an EEV-IV PCM designed to use coil packs and your engine has COP ignition. The '93 doesn't use a Cam Position Sensor because it uses a lost spark method, in other words it fires two cylinder simultaneously - one on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust stroke. So it only use a Crank Position Sensor.
Note in the pictures from Lonnie, that he has coil packs and plug wires. As I see
it, you will either need to use the ignition system from the Mark VIII engine, or go with the Gen 2 PCM and do some rewiring. It would seem to be easier to use the older style ignition and look into any other sensors or components necessary to convert the engine from EEC-V to EEC-IV. My engine is a 1996 Cobra, so it was a straight forward install.
Also, you can't just reflash to older PCM modules like you can with the EEC-V.

"The independent rear suspension (IRS) found on 1989-1997 Thunderbird's and Lincoln Mark VIII's are different from the well known solid axle's found on Mustangs (FOX or SN95), and other rear wheel drive Fords. I will refer to the MN12 Thunderbirds differential here only. The differentials for the MN12 Thunderbirds come in two sizes 7.5 and 8.8 (diameter of the ring gear). All Thunderbird SC's came with 8.8 differentials and depending on the transmission (automatic or manual) either 2.73, 3.08, or 3.27 ring and pinion gear set. If you decide on replacing or upgrading your Traction-Lok Limited Slip there are some important things to keep in mind. When upgrading the 8.8 Traction-Lok unit you will find a lot of 8.8 units that are made to fit the solid axle cars but, will not fit the IRS cars. The MN12 8.8 and 7.5 differentials use a 28-spline shaft. The difference between the standard solid axle and the IRS differential is a "Step" (grove) in both differential side gears in order to retain the Circlip (C clip) that holds the Halfshafts in place (see diagram). A "Step" is a grove that will allow the Circlip (C-Clip) to slip over the Halfshaft and secure the Halfshaft in the differential. The differential has precise tolerances and should not be disassembled or assembled without the proper tools and experience. When replacing or adding a Traction-Lok Limited Slip to your SC that may or may not have one installed the easiest ways is to get a Traction-Lok Limited Slip unit from Auburn Gear Inc. 219-925-3200. High Performance unit for standard OE replacement part# 542079 or Pro Series unit part# 542080 for better traction and faster engagement. The average street price for the High Performance unit is $340.00 and $410.00 for the Pro Series. Torsen also sells a limited slip differential through Ford Racing part number M-4204-T28 unit is $450.00 through Ford Racing By, Rich Thomson "
http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12-techinfo/traction-lok/traction-lok.htm

Kerry & Kathy – [summary of info from postings]
got 95 Mark VIII w/ 64k miles for $800, front end damage
http://www.ffcars.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/ubb/get_topic/f/41/t/001541/p/1.html#000023
Mark VIII IRS is same as that found in the T-Bird and Mustang. The primary differences are that the Mark VIII uses a 20# lighter aluminum carrier and most all are open rear ends. The half shafts, CV joints and outer bearing spindles are all the same with the exception of wheel bolt pattern, which is a simple modification.

15-25 HP lower peak is the result of a more restrictive exhaust system (which is discarded and replaced on the FFR) and an intake manifold designed for a lower torque peak.
 

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Gonna post it in 6 parts - Part 5

Mark VIII will provide 280-290 HP all aluminum, DOHC engine, wiring harness, radiator & shroud, transmission, gauges, complete IRS

Valve covers on Mark & 96-98 Cobra are identical. Exhaust cams on both engines are the same. Mark intake cams have 10 deg less duration with the same lift. Crank is nodular cast iron w/ 6 bolt flywheel mounting. Cobra is forged steel using eight mounting bolts. Cobra uses better conical valve spring, but the cobra springs can be installed in the Mark with matching retainers. Use same valves, hypereutectic pisons, cracked rods, valve covers, front chain cover, cam chains/guides & misc hard parts. Same static compression ratio. Mark uses a diff oil pan with a side reservoir.


93-95 Mark 280hp
96-98 Mark 290hp due to improved exhaust system.
96-98 Cobra 305hp

He is using a ported Mark VIII intake, port matched heads w/ valve bowl clean up and 5 angle valve job. 96-98 Cobra intake cams, 03 Navigator exhaust cams, Cobra conical valve springs with retainers. Cams will be degree to run 110 deg intake lobe centers and 114 deg exhaust lobe centers. Long block is stock. With the 4 tube headers, he expects to see a conservative 340hp.

Cobras use 31 spline count rears, Marks use 28
28 spline non IRS Mustang diffs (including Traction-lock) work as swaps
Also swap pumpkin from mid 90’s Super Couple T-Bird

The 5.0 Liters produce more low end torque, so the 4.6's tend to need to be geared lower to show their potential which comes on at higher RPM's.

When comparing the blocks, the 5.0 Liters are good for 400-500 HP. A cast iron 4.6 can hold up with 900 HP. An aluminum block 4.6 can handle up to 1,600 HP. So the 4.6's are actually quite amazing as far as how much power they can withstand

When comparing heads, even the early 4.6 4 valve Cobra Heads flow as much air in stock form as a really good set of aftermarket 5.0L heads. That's why these motors respond so well to supercharging.

Regarding internals, the 5.0 Liters production nodular crank is good beyond 500 HP and the stock H.O. forged pistons can take a beating. The 4.6's powder rods and hypereutetic pistons can be problematic with high horsepower levels. You can look at the internals on the Ford GT to see what kinds of upgrades Ford thought was necessary for the higher horsepower levels available from the 4.6's.



Emails between ‘Kerry & Kathy’ and (Craig Watkins)
Personal notes:
They both want to go with automatic. So I definitely have to scrounge the T-45.
Manual mustang pedal box, clutch components
He picked up SN95 spindles ($17/ea), hubs ($20/ea) at a local junkyard.
Plans on getting LCAs from junkyard too
Doesn’t know about PS, heard it will fit.
Fuel tank: Wants to get a new one anyway ($85 on eBay), along w/ pump & filter
2nd donor (Mustang): He thinks the cost of the donor & hassle of using the old parts will end up costing the same as all the spare parts that are already needed anyways. Just use eBay and watch for the components.
IRS: Apparently there is occasionally a sale where this & the Konis are free. Though Mark said that would be the last one… *sigh*
Bolt pattern: Using Mustang front hubs & plans to re-drill the rear hubs

Kerry,
I got your email off of the FFR forum. You seem to be the guy to come to for questions about using a Mark VIII for a donor.

Like your wife I can not operate a clutch with my left leg. I have to go auto. I'm placing my order for the kit tomorrow (before the sale ends) and I need to decide what package to go with (brake package, IRS package or three link rear package). Since I want to do the Mark VIII as the donor, you would think that I would go the IRS package, but it's not that clear.

Several months ago you asked on the forum about other parts from the Lincoln that might work. You listed them as:

1.Mark VIII Donor wiring harness? Yes, The primary contribution of the wiring harness is the wire itself, the connectors, and the sensors. The Mark supplies what you need just as well as the Mustang.

2.Front Spindles? ====> did you even get an answer on this? No. I went ahead and found 94 Mustang spindles at a yard in IL for $17 Each…hubs were an additional $20 each…way less than they sell for on eBay.

3.Front Brake Calipers?====> what is the wheel bolt pattern on the hubs/rotors? Buying new routers would be cheap, but what about the hubs? See above re: the hubs. Yes I plan to buy new Mustang rotors and return the Mark rotors for the cores. The rear Mark hubs can be used and redrilled to the Mustang wheel pattern.

4.Front Lower Control arms? I don’t yet know. My Mark LCAs were damaged. Again, the Mustang LCA are cheap in the Yards

5.Power Steering Rack? I am told it will fit, as some are using it but I found a Brand New 94 Ford Mustang PS unit on eBay for $85…!!

6.Instrument Panel (modified similarly as Mustang panel)? Some of the gages can be made to work, but I am not sure myself about all. If not I’ll hit the yards. The yard that had the spindles had gages for $35.

7.Accelerator Pedal? The Mark is different but will work, but I found one from a Mustang off eBay for $.01…plus shipping. $10.01 total. Keep in mind that the Mustang gas pedal has to be modified anyway.

8.Automatic Pedal Box? Possibly, but again I found an automatic 94 Mustang box on eBay for $.01 plus shipping. $15.01 total. Something to note is that the automatic stuff goes CHEAP on eBay because nobody is bidding against you. An identical 94 Mustang Manual pedal box sold for $26 from the same seller.

9.Automatic Transmission Mounts? You want new poly mounts here.(about $29 new) Don’t reuse the old. Same for motor mounts ($79 new off eBay).

10.Fuel Tank? On this I simply don’t know. They look similar, but there are different part numbers. However, New aftermarket Mustang tanks are only $85 on eBay. My opinion is that a used rusty tank with varnish on the inside is not something I want to use on my car anyway. Same for filter and pump.

11.Fuel Filler Neck? Yes, however both are cut and a fuel hose extension is added. There is nothing special here about the Mustang filler. They have remained the same for many years.

12.Master Cylinder / Hydro Booster? It looks like it may, but I have not confirmed yet. I am not that far along. In any event a used one can be bought for as little as $35.

13.Steering Shaft Assembly? You don’t use the Mustang or Mark steering shaft assy. The kit comes with a new one. What you need to insure is that the kit is ordered to fit either a 94 or newer steering rack…or a 93 and older Mustang steering rack. They are different and you need to specify which when you order your kit. In my case it was the 94 and later to fit the new rack I bought off ebay.

Did you get any more answers? If it turns out the only thing that can be used from the Lincoln is the motor, trans and wiring harness, then I am seriously considering doing the Lincoln for the motor, trans and wiring and also buying an old tired Mustang for all the other parts. If you think about it, there are a lot of parts needed from the Mustang.

I would suggests against this for several reasons:

1. The Lincoln WILL have a major portion of the little bits and pieces you need. Sensors, Hardware, tank straps, grommets, wiring, etc.
2. The amount of work dealing with two donors would not be worth the cost , logistics and effort to buy a second Mustang donor.
3. What you would pay for a second Mustang donor will cost MORE than buying the added items NEW or rebuilt and with the donor you still have used parts that have to be cleaned, reconditioned, etc.
4. Ebay will supply MANY parts you need for less than the same parts from a donor…without the hassle. You just need to put searches in your Ebay for the specific items you need. Then watch when they pop up. That’s how I found the NEW PS rack. And NO ONE bid against me…this is too often overlooked.
5. Go to www.car-part.com and search for salvage yards. You would be amazed how many yards in IL can supply the few non critical parts that don’t need to be new…for far less than buying a complete donor. The yard I found that had spindles for $17 and hubs for $20 also had Mustang hydro boosters for $35. The same spindles on Ebay are selling for $125-$180.


If none of the Lincoln parts work, I could see it myself quite easily being nickel and dimed to death. Pedal box, fuel tank, sending unit, brakes, spindles, etc.... This project will nickel dime you whether you have a Mustang donor or not. It is simply part of building a car. Having two donors will not change that…just add more cost and aggravation.

If I do the two donor route like above, then the package for the sale I would pick is the rear suspension three link. I would rethink this. Do a search on the IRS and you will find that the IRS handles better and rides MUCH better. Plus the Mark VIII donor helps to substantially reduce your cost by providing the IRS parts you need. The fact that the current sale includes the IRS option with FREE Konis all around makes this a no brainer. You are effectively saving $2550 from the IRS package and another $599 for the Konis. That is an upfront savings of $3149.00 for the kit…!!! Go with the IRS and you will never regret it. Many builders of the 3 and 4 link rear ends have stated that their next cars will have IRS. The IRS is a better match for the automatic “high performance street car”…we both want to have. The solid axle rear is second best in ANY street application.


Keep in mind that MANY parts you want will be remanufactured from Napa or AutoZone, etc., where you can return used Mark VIII cores when buying the rebuilt Mustang parts. Most stores don’t care, just as long as a rebuildable core is received. This allows you to buy MANY needed Mustang parts in new condition, using the Mark donor for cores. This is especially helpful for brake calipers and rotors. This is one reason why the Summer Sale brake package did not appeal to me. I can do better with rebuilt brake components and turning in Mark cores.

In addition, I have found online sources for NEW Mustang radiators as low as $90 shipped. NEW electric radiator fan /shroud assemblies for $100 shipped. These prices are just slightly more than what some yards are asking for USED parts.

Don’t get hung up on the need of a Mustang Donor. Between the Mark VIII donor, eBay, online sources, and a local salvage yard…you will have everything you need.

Also get your order in today, but don’t be too concerned about selecting all the options you do or don’t want. You can change your order over the next several weeks. What is important is getting your order in before the sale ends. This particular sale is the best FFR has ever offered in my opinion because of the IRS / Koni package and I have been watching them for two years. The fact that Mark has stated it will likely be their last sale, makes it more important to pull the trigger now. If you decide to go IRS (and I really suggest you do) be SURE to ask for the free Koni’s. The original offer was for free Koni’s with the IRS for the first 50 customers only and that number has been surpassed. However, when you call, ask for Bob Kay. If you ask for the Koni’s he will honor the special.

Just my $.02.

Kerry
 

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Gonna post it in 6 parts - Part 6

I hope you get this in time to help me on a decision before the sale is up. Please respond to both emails above (home and work) so I can see it no matter where I am Friday.

PS- Since you're in St. Louis (I'm in Chicago suburb) maybe we will meet someday to share build experiences.

Look forward to it…


Craig,
Something I just thought of and forgot to add..
If you order a FFR set up for the 4.6 DOHC your frame and parts selection shipped will be for a 96 or newer Mustang Cobra.
If you were to buy "an older Mustang" as a second donor, the older donor parts will not necessarily be the same as the new 4.6 frame. So...you would still have to buy late model Mustang equivalent parts. The hydro booster, for example, is not found on older Mustangs. The fuel tank / pump assy for an older carburated Mustang will not work becasue the 4.6 must have a fuel injected fuel tank, pickup and sending unit. The steering shaft changed in 94 and will not interchange with earlier year racks. And on and on....
Again, buying an older Mustang as a second donor is not the answer in my opinion and would create more problems with a 4.6 DOHC car.
Kerry
PS I'll send you some links later to help you find parts that were helpful to me.



Hi Kerry,

Hope you don't mind that I'm leaning on you for info.
As I replied last week I ordered the kit with the IRS option (and Koni upgrade). My delivery date is the last week in December. I think I remember reading on the forum that your delivery date is first week of December, right? Correct

I have some more specific questions about the IRS parts needed.

Assuming I buy a Mark VIII, what parts can be used off the donor, what parts are included from Factory Five and what parts do I need off another car (like Thunderbird Super Coupe)?
Repeat after me: You don’t need any additional IRS parts off a Super Coupe!

It's hard to go by the Factory Five web site because it's vague and doesn't take into account the Mark VIII parts.

Here's a run down. Please correct my errors or fill in where you can.

( I have attached a picture with letters pointing to different items so we can keep track of them.)

A: Center diff. The Mark VIII is most likely not posi. I found a guy in Chicago parting out a '92 Super coupe. Should be a good unit right? The Super Coupe differential is not necessary…Plus, if memory serves me the T-Bird case is cast iron, not aluminum like the Mark case. The Mark VIII center section should be used. You will likely be changing the final drive ratio so the ring and pinion will have to be changed anyway. Most FFR builders opt for the 3.55 but in my case I chose the 3.73. You disassemble the Mark differential, buy a set of gears and buy a used 8.8 Posi Carrier. The carrier from a straight axle car will work. It does not have to be from an IRS car. Then have a good gear shop install the new ring and pinion using the Posi carrier instead of the original non-Posi carrier. This is also a good time to replace the carrier bearings and seals. This way you don’t have to worry about it later. This is a better option than buying another Posi T-Bird IRS of unknown condition that may have noisy gears (of the wrong ratio) and may need replacement posi clutches, spider gears, side gears, bearings or seals. Having the Mark IRS set up properly is a little more expensive, but you know it's right when your done. In my case I bought a NEW Ford 8.8 Posi Carrier off eBay for $140 with new clutches, side gears and spider gears. (Good used ones can be found for less than $70.) I then found a new 3.73 ring and pinion for $85. A new bearing and seal kit was about $35.

B: Upper and Lower control arms. Supplied by Factory Five. Correct

C: What are these? Are they supplied by Factory Five, off the Mark VIII or should I get off the Super coupe? They are the Constant Velocity joints that come on the Mark and are mated to the FFR supplied half shafts. They just need to be checked for wear and re-greased, although they are not that expensive to replace with rebuilt units from AutoZone or NAPA.

D: Are these the Half Shafts supplied by factory Five? Yes

E: What are the short 'axles' outside of the U joint called? Where do these come from? They are the rear spindles from the Mark. Just clean and use as is.

F: Hubs. You said the Mark VIII can be redrilled. Any more info on this? Directions I can look over? Or should I buy the hubs off the Super coupe? The Mark hubs can be re-drilled. It is a simple operation that any good machinist can do with a Bridgeport and rotary table. There is a member on the FFR forum that offers this service. Just do a search. I am doing my own in my shop.

G: Knuckles: Will the Mark VIII units work or get the Super Coupe units. The Mark knuckles are used as-is after cleaning and painting.

Brakes: I didn't mark the rotors or calipers because I know these items and as we discussed earlier you can buy new and turn in the Mark VIII units as cores. Actually, unless you plan to upgrade the rear brakes, you can retain the Mark VIII calipers if they are good or replace them with rebuilt Mark VIII units. The rotors will need to be new replacements with the matching new five-bolt wheel pattern. I don’t remember the car model they come from, but just do a search for “rear IRS rotors” on the forum.

Craig

Don’t worry about the Super Coupe IRS. The Mark IRS supplies everything you need other than a Posi carrier. This is why the Mark VIII is such a good donor car.

The only point to remember is that the IRS unit requires special tools to “spread” the housing to install the carrier and someone experienced to set preload and backlash. Find a reputable gear shop with experience with the Mustang, Mark and T-Bird IRS units and you should be fine.

Kerry

Differential Specs
SPECIFICATIONS
Clearance, Tolerance and Adjustments
³ Description ³ mm ³ Inches ³
³ Maximum Runout of ³ 0.0762 ³ 0.004 ³
³ Backface of Ring Gear ³ ³ ³
³ Differential Side Gear ³ 0.762-0.812 ³ 0.030-0.032 ³
³ Differential Pinion ³ ³ ³
³ Thrust Washer Thickness ³ ³ ³
³ Differential Pinion Gear ³ 0.762-0.812 ³ 0.030-0.032 ³
³ Differential Pinion ³ ³ ³
³ Thrust Washer Thickness ³ ³ ³
³ Maximum Differential ³ 0.076 ³ 0.003 ³
³ Case Runout ³ ³ ³
³ Nominal Pinion Drive ³ 0.762 ³ 0.030 ³
³ Pinion Bearing ³ ³ ³
³ Adjustment Shim ³ ³ ³
³ Maximum Carrier Spread ³ 0.762 ³ 0.030 ³
³ Backlash Between Ring ³ 0.203-0.330 ³ 0.008-0.013 ³
³ Gear and Pinion Teeth ³ ³ ³
³ Preferred Backlash ³ 0.254 ³ 0.010 ³
³ Maximum Backlash ³ 0.1016 ³ 0.004 ³
³ Variation Between Teeth ³ ³ ³
³ Maximum Radial Runout of ³ 0.25 TIR ³ 0.010 TIR ³
³ Rear Axle Universal ³ ³ ³
³ Joint Flange in Assembly ³ ³ ³
³ Available Drive Pinion ³ 0.254-0.965 ³ 0.010-0.038 ³
³ Bearing Adjustment Shim ³ ³ ³
³ in Steps of: ³ ³ ³
³ .0254 mm (.001 inch) ³ ³ ³
³ 224 mm (8.8 inch) axle ³ ³ ³
³ Lubricant Deflector to ³ 5.08-6.35 ³ 0.200-0.250 ³
³ Axle Housing Cover ³ ³ ³
Retaining Torque Specifications
³ Description ³ Nm ³ Lb/Ft ³
³ Rear Axle Wheel Hub Retainer ³ 340 ³ 251 ³
³ Bearing Cap Bolt ³ 95-115 ³ 70-85 ³
³ Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Pin ³ 20-41 ³ 15-30 ³
³ Rear Axle Differential Gear Case Bolt(a) ³ 95-115 ³ 70-85 ³
³ Rear Axle Housing Cover Retaining Bolt ³ 27-37 ³ 20-27 ³
³ Filler Plug ³ 28-40 ³ 20-30 ³
³ Rear Differential Front Lower Insulator Nut ³ 108-136 ³ 80-100 ³
³ Rear Axle Differential Front Lower Insulator ³ 108-136 ³ 80-100 ³
³ to Cover Bolts ³ ³ ³
³ Rear Differential Mount to Crossmember Bolt ³ 108-136 ³ 80-100 ³
³ and Nut ³ ³ ³
³ Driveshaft to Rear Axle Universal Joint ³ 95-130 ³ 70-95 ³
³ Flange Bolt ³ ³ ³
³ Lower Rear Suspension Arm and Bushing Bolt ³ 128-178 ³ 94-131 ³
³ Rear Suspension Arm and Bushing Bolt ³ 158-193 ³ 117-142 ³
³ Brake Rear Disc Caliper Locating Pin ³ 87-119 ³ 64-88 ³
³ Rear Brake Anti-Lock Sensor Bolt ³ 19-27 ³ 14-20 ³
³ Lug Nuts ³ 115-142 ³ 85-105 ³
(a) - Use Stud and Bearing Mount E0AZ-19554-BA or equivalent meeting Ford
specification WSK-M2G349-A1
Adjustment Torque Specifications
³ Description ³ Nm ³ Lb/In ³
³ Minimum torque required to tighten pinion nut ³ 190(a) ³ 140 ³
³ to obtain correct pinion bearing preload. ³ ³ ³
³ Pinion Bearing PreloadÄ ³ ³ ³
³ (Collapsible Spacer) ³ ³ ³
³ Original Bearings(b) ³ 0.9-1.6 ³ 8-14 ³
³ New Bearings ³ 1.8-3.2 ³ 16-29 ³
(a) - If pinion bearing preload exceeds specification before this torque is
obtained, install a new spacer.
(b) - With pinion oil seal.
 

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Thanks - that will take me a while to digest!

I'm a moderator of a forum at another site and I have a fair notion about the amount of work required to put that together.

I'm grateful.

ETA: I pulled out a copy into a Word document format that I will email to anyone that asks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow, great job Sergio!
 

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Junkyards sell Mark VIII engines for $400-600 up in NE. No other all aluminum DOHC Modulars available for that price! Seen quite a few cars go for <$800. I can almost guarantee the brakes & suspension components of stuff like the Aviator & Explorer won't just bolt up. Probably would only be good for their engines.
send me a email about a price for a 4.6L for a lincoln vIII 1993 asap my name is moses sotelo or call me at 719-557-0757
 

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send me a email about a price for a 4.6L for a lincoln vIII 1993 asap my name is moses sotelo or call me at 719-557-0757

Dear sir,

you just registered and already selling engines?
seems fishy, please explain what your intentions are, we can redirect your post to either the sell/wanted section or straight to the trash, so many spammers lately....

:001_unsure:
 

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kinda sounds like he is interested in buying an engine?...

intake manifold question. will the first and second generation manifold fit a 3d generation engine? (a '97 to be exact)
 

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Thanks - that will take me a while to digest!

I'm a moderator of a forum at another site and I have a fair notion about the amount of work required to put that together.

I'm grateful.

ETA: I pulled out a copy into a Word document format that I will email to anyone that asks.
I was wondering if you still have word doc about the build
 
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