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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the Nolden 112050L LED tail lights and getting them to work has been a bit of a chore.

The first order of business was the blinker, which was easily fixed with a no load flasher relay from painless.

Depending on the light module you buy, the combination of features in the module vary. I have parking lights with brake lights.

When you press the brake it lights up nice and bright. Once you turn the stalk the lights stay illuminated. Pressing the brake gives no change. I separated the wires and only ran the brake light wire to the taillight.

They work just fine. When you turn the stalk the light flickers, pressing the brake pedal makes the light brighter and steady.

I checked the voltage on the parking light wire and the brake wire. The parking light is registering 12V and the brake wire is registering 8.6V, when the pedal is depressed the voltage is 12V.

I know my issue is in the relay and unfortunately there is no diagram on the relay provided from FFR. I just need to get rid of the 8.6V...as I already have the tail lights and have no intention of changing to a dimmable LED.

A search for the number on the relay returned 0 viable results. I'll probably just have to check the power on the pins and go from there.

I will just deal with only having 2 rear driving lights, as I plan to install a 3rd brake light before I take the car out of the dungeon shop that is my basement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's possible. I've seen DRL's take a lower voltage. I have disconnected every wire at the light end and only connected the brake wire and the common ground. I get 8.6V on the brake circuit even with no load on the parking light circuit.

I attached a picture of the relays in question from the assembly manual. The power source for the relay should be 12V from the stalk. I should have power on my brake lights at all times, waiting for a trigger from the brake switch. When I turn the stalk a nominal voltage is supplied to the brake circuit.

That nominal voltage is a pain in my ass and Nolden has a department of idiotic asshats. That don't like to answer direct questions.

The brake light has a separate 2 pin connector for an external anode/cathode but nolden won't answer any questions.

I could chop the circuit up and make it work. I would simply have to supply a fused 12V power source, a ground, a trigger from the brake switch, and a switch leg out to the brake lights. I would rather not do that.

I also have to try and get my reverse lights functioning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I meant that the circuit should have 12V available at all times. Little typo.

I cut the wire running from the brake lights to the brake switch, cut the power wire feeding the switch, ran a new THWN line to the brake lights and added a new 3A fuse to the fuse box with constant 12V to feed the switch and everything works perfectly now.

The reverse lights weren't working so I had to make a plug from an old XT60 RC connector to get it going.

 
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