You can set them by hand. I used two 1/2" structural washers against the hub, then a 9/16" nut as a spacer, then another two 1/2" structural washers, and finally a Grade 8 1/2" nut. Put a drop or two of oil between the each washer & the spacer nut. Secure the hub from turning with a bar, and then get busy cranking that Grade 8 nut tight. Use the handle section of your floor jack as a cheater bar, and you'll be able to pull the studs in pretty easily.
Front brakes and rotors installed today, and I drilled out and trimmed the rear spindles...nothing earth shattering. On the other hand, I felt like I was going to shatter the earth trying to hammer the rear wheel studs into the rear hubs. I know the manual says to use a nut and washer to pull...
I just went to the local tire shop and bought 10 lug nuts that fit those t-bird lugs. They were $20 and don't match the fronts, but having a 69 mopar, lefts were threaded opp the rights. Hate to press fit things in the same holes. HTH Andy
Oh so sorry. You where using a tool to drive screws, with three adapter on it and couldn't understand why it didn't work. Each and every adapter greatly reduces impact torque, to the point you can stop it by hand
To center the rivet holes to the frame, you need to drill them from the back side of the panel after marking the location of the frame. I suppose you can just drill from the front side but suspect you might have some holes that miss the frame
Quandary of the day is connecting the rear spindle to the upper control arm. The instructions say to insert the angled mount adapter into the upper rod end. I have four of these adapters/spacers but I think they
shipped me the wrong quantities. See picture. Only have one of the angled mount adapters. It’s in the bottom right of the photo
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