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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tested all my wiring yesterday ( without actually cranking since I'm waiting on some more porting on my manifold) and everything worked perfect. Computer even showed no faults. Thant to all, especially Jeff, for the advice. That being said, I have one last question.
I want to run a warning light for the alternator. My understanding is on one side of the light I need to wire in a "hot at crank and run" wire. Will my unused purple "coil to tach" wire work? If not , what? On the other side of the light, I'm reading I need to connect the small wire from the alternator. I'm using a Promaster 3G that has a green wire that's labeled "indicator light". Should I wire this into the small brown wire at the alternator (RF harness)? Where does the brown wire terminate? Or should I pull it out of the loom in the pedal box, cut it, and run to the other side of the light? Also, do I need to use the 510 resistor between the wires ( hot/signal)?
 

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Yes, you need the resistor. If you need one, I have about 100 of them, and I can send it to you. I can't answer the question about the harness. I used a donor harness. The green wire from the alternator goes to one side of the light. The other side of the light needs the 12 hot in start/ run. I have mine direct from the fuse box (I had lots of unused spaces in my fuse box). The resistor needs to be in parallel with the light. It is there in case the light burns out. The alternator needs the resistance as a "trigger" to start charging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, through some research I think I found the answer to my own question...
The green indicator wire at the alternator is spliced into the brown wire in the RF harness. This brown wire is then cut into in the footbox and one side connects to the warning light and the other side of the brown is connected to the other side of the warning light (with resistor spliced in). This assumes the brown wire is the one going to the ignition switch (hot during Start and Run)

Is this all correct?
 
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