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Junior Charter Member
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There seems to still be a clearance issue with the spring hat to LCA with the Koni. On rebound everything is close but acceptable looks like, but I am not happy with what I get on full compression. What about making a .050 clearance cut on the tubing with an end mill? Any thoughts on this? This is the left side, the right is the same.

Thanks

full compression


rebound


full compression from below


[ July 14, 2007, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: TCR ]
 

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Premium Member
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9,698 Posts
Try swapping the spacers around, and see if that helps. That should move the shock a little more towards the center of the lower arm.
 

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The Never-Ending Builder
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5,329 Posts
TCR,

I would suggest machining a tubular spacer that will slip on the shaft prior to installing the rod end. That would move up the platform that the cap is snap ringed to. You'll only need what looks like 1/2". Use either 6061 T6 Aluminum or DOM tubing. Or just use Grade 8 washers that have a matching Inner Diameter to the shaft, you don't want them shifting around, but the drilled to fit tubing would be better.

Hank
 

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Junior Charter Member
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had to remove .080 from the rear spacer and .120 from the front, just to be able to install them. It was still a tight fit then. I faced the front (longer) spacer on a lathe until I got the hat to center and contact both tubes at the same time, then faced the rear spacer for a snug fit. This is the best I got. The hat just touches as it hits the stop. With the lower end moved forward or backward any amount at all the hat hits hard on that side and binds up. The opening between the tubes should be wider or the lower mount moved up in relation to the arm. It just touches, but if bottomed hard the cushion will compress and that will be a problem. Can't put a spacer on the Koni. The end is welded to the hat mount plate, last picture. A spacer would only move the hat down also, and just make the shaft longer. I don't know what the wall thickness of the tubing is. A .050 - .060 cut would probably be enough, but I don't want to go through the wall.

TCR
 

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The Never-Ending Builder
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5,329 Posts
TCR,

Are you looking at "Full Compression" without the Knuckle and Top camber tube installed? If so, you will find that the Camber tube will bottom out before the shock reaches contact with the rubber snubber. It ends up hitting the 2x3 tube going towards the rear. So this, to a degree might not be a "Real" problem. I wouldn't go with cutting or notching the tube for clearance, but a little "persuading" with a thick piece of tubing against the offending area might be doable. But if you don't really need to do that, it's always better to leave the tube intact.

Hank
 

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Junior Charter Member
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61 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hank,

Do not have knuckle and upper arm installed. I will try that after installing the bushings and brg.

Thanks,
Kenny
TCR
 

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1,386 Posts
I've got to update my older post, but here's what I found out:

1: The clearance is pretty close.
2: The ProShocks had the long spacer in the back, short in front. The Koni's are opposite.
3: There appears to be some variation in the LCA's as far as how identical they are. For example, my Passenger Side LCA worked perfectly when I put the long spacer in front, short spacer in back. However, the Driver Side LCA was not OK. I ended up shortening slightly the longer spacer, and adding a thick grade-8 washer to the rear spacer in order to move the hat away from the rear LCA arm.
4: The space between the hat and the rear arm on the LCA reduces very slightly, but..
5: The space between the hat and the front LCA reduces much more.
6: I recommend moving the suspension with the Koni's mounted, without springs, through the entire range of movement (full droop to complete compression) in order check that there is no rubbing. If there is, add a washer or otherwise modify your spacers to make sure there is no rubbing.
7: Be prepared to take a couple of days to work it out!
 
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