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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, just ordered roadster kit On th 26th. I going 351 stroker, carb, 5 speed, solid axle. Not sure if it would be better to get a donor car or not, from reading through the forum I see lots of aftermarket items being used (by the way, I think logging onto this forum has blown any budget thoughts). My question is: Is there a comprehesive list of parts needed from the donor, I have not yet received a build manual, but would like to get started. Was going to start on the motor right away, but would like to start accumulating some parts that I will need right away. Appreciate any info, thanks in advance.
 

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I'm the COOL Dad
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Also from the factory five page:

http://www.factoryfive.com/rdsterhome.html

Parts Needed to Complete your Mk3 Base Kit



The Mk3 Base kit is “Donor Capable”. That means you already have all the parts that you need, providing you have a 1987-2004 Ford Mustang. Here is the exact list of Ford Mustang parts that are needed.



If you are using parts from a single donor car, expect to pay from $500 to $3,000 for the entire vehicle. If you source the parts separately, buying some parts new and some used, expect to pay a bit more.



Here’s a list of the parts you will need to complete your Mk3 Base kit.


Major Components/Parts 1987-2004 Ford Mustang



1. Engine and transmission assembly

2. Driveshaft

3. Ford 8.8” rear end assembly w/quad-shocks, springs and control arms

4. Ford front and rear brake assemblies, w/master cylinder

5. Ford front wheel spindles and lower control arm



Minor Components/Parts 1987-2004 Ford Mustang



7. Ford radiator and cooling fan shroud

8. Ford Mustang steering rack (w/factory ignition for 87-95 cars)

9. Ford EFI computer and wire harness (or use aftermarket)

10. Ford fuel tank, and fuel filter

11. Ford emergency brake handle and pedal box



Other

12. Paint

13. Wheels
 

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Charter Member
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I did a non-donor build and am happy I went that route. If money is not an issue, buy new. The one item I am having trouble with (fuel sending unit) in the junkyard gas tank is messing up. I would call one of the vendors (Mark Reynolds from BREEZE or Mike Forte) and start ordering parts that you will know you will need so when the kit arrives you are not waiting on parts.

Invest a lot of time on this forum looking at options and good luck with the build.

Welcome!
 

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Gelcoat Driving Maniac!
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4,373 Posts
Agree with Ted, figure out what you plan to do with suspension and start ordering those parts. They come up first. Then get your fuel stuff ready. Get brakes and wheels and you'll be a roller in no time (he says after having his kit a month and not having moved the tires out of the living room yet
).

There's plenty of aluminum to do so you can always work on that while waiting for parts.

Other stuff to do, clean up the garage. I also added some more overhead lights (makes a HUGE difference) and some more overhead outlets with extension cord reels.

Good luck and be sure to post pics of the delivery.
 

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Senior Member
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Get the work area set up, Give your self some room!
Think about Epoxy painting the floor. Glad I did.

Air Compressor
Good Impact Gun
Air drill, reversing if you can.
a bunch of 1/8" Drill bits. (Bosch were $4 a pair and lasted forever. Got them at Lowes)
3/16 drill bits, 6 of each should do
Cleko tool and at least 50 Clekos
4 Jack Stands and cover tops with Cloth and tiewraps or ?
Floor Jack
Build a Body Buck (Search for Links on the forum)
Creeper to roll around on
Rolling stool (Low)
Red and Blue Loctite
Good Torque Wrench and 1/2 in sockets
Rags, Simple Green and Paint thinner (To clean up any used parts)
Set up good lighting Get D6500 Tube lighting if you can

Im that far in my build Im sure more things will come up.

HB
 

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Big Kahuna
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5,671 Posts
Bite your nails
Pace a lot
Toss and turn
Pester us like you already are. :)

Seriously, What Hank said. You would be surprised how you can gather parts/tools/stuff for very little cost when you spread it out.
 

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608 Posts
Decide what wheels you're going with on your build. Then figure out the brakes that will work with the wheels. A lot of options but, you can get bassacwords on the above real quick. It's all fun-enjoy the build. Also a lot of help from the folks around here.

Mac
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks again, I'll star on the body buck and pick up a cleko tool and clekos. shop is pretty well setup. I'll lurk quite a bit, lots of knowledge here, have picked up quite a lot of info. Already started randomly disposing of kitchen utensils, that way it can't be linked to the arrival of the cobra!!

Ross
 

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Ross,

What Ted & the others have said is right... If you want to keep costs low, buy new! I went the donor route and have replaced every major component except for the rear end and steering rack (and the steering rack is next).

It would have been waaay cheaper to go new right from the start.

Welcome to the madness!!

Dave
 

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Junior Charter Member
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835 Posts
Hi Ross! Welcome to the fray!

All great advice above. If you do go with a donor, you might want to add a parts washer. I've seen some at Harbor Freight that looked reasonable. I went with a donor pallet from Cypress. First thing was to throw the parts in the back of the pick-up, spray the heck out of it with Gunk, then drive to the local coin-op car wash to get the first layer or two of grease off.

That done, I started really looking at the parts...ended up replacing the majority with new. I think the only donor parts left on it are the rear end, transmission, fuel tank, and fly wheel.

I started with copying any threads on the forum that concerned areas that I had questions on and saved them off to a Word format and indexed them by major topic (electrical, brakes, chassis, fuel sys, etc.). They're a great reference.

In addition to Mark @ Breeze and Mike, I'd add Richard Oben @ North Race Cars for advice on brakes, axles, and suspension. He's the guru on that subject.

Also - if you're going to add any heat shields or insulation in the engine bay, make a pattern of your firewall and footboxes before you start attaching them to the frame. Much easier to work with the insulating material before the panels are attached.

Food for thought!
 

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just another builder
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buy a box of band-aids :D
 

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What they said.
As for me, I started out with a donor. After disassembly and considering the work and cost to refurbish donor parts, plus cost of upgrading suspension, changing the rear end gearing, etc., I sold off most of the parts and went with the then-brand-new Complete Kit. Glad I did - a better deal in the long run (PLUS the benefit of learning how the parts fit together.) Should have steam-cleaned the donor before pulling the engine. I kept the engine & trans.
Harbor Tool for engine hoist & stand.
 

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Super Moderator
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Donor? You don't need no stinkin' donor!! YOU HAVE US!!!!!! :D :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks all, I think most of my oarts are going to be non donor (I hate doing things twice). But for things like pedal box, LCA, spindles, rear end and tranny (I will of course rebuild) and such maybe the wreckers is the best bet, unless I'm missing something?

Ross
 

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I vacillated about what donor to get for a year. i was sitting on the fence. I really considered Breeze and their EZE pack but paying that much I really wanted a complete, and test run, engine. When Factory Five announced the complete kit I ordered it the first day it was available. Lots of nice goodies in the kit so far. A completely new racing pedal box. An aluminum pumpkin (differential) for the IRS. Lots of nice stuff. I am going with 15" pin drive so I can't use the fancy cobra brakes. Nice to have everything new. Just like a new Erector set.

Good luck with your build! I started mine last Saturday.
 
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