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Discussion Starter #121
In preparation for eng/trans install I've dial indicated the bellhousing and just waiting for the off set dowel pins I've ordered. I need your opinions on the best way to lift the engine. I've seen some use a bracket bolted to the intake manifold where the carb mounts and others bolt to the front and back of the heads. I have a load leveler and could bolt to the heads but I would have to remove the alternator and coil/power steering pump or is it better to remove the carb and get the bracket to mount on the intake? I'm still a week or two from being ready to do the install.
Thanks, JR
 

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I always use a carb lift plate for carb'd engines. Easy to put on/take off and gets the job done. I've even found it's not necessary to use the balancer, even though I have one. Use the front hole and it naturally tilts down and drops in pretty easily.


 

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I had a similar situation w/ the levelor on mine. Front holes were mostly used up. So i got an old serpentine belt and wrapped it under the spacers for the alt and PS pump mount bolts. I can bring my selection of belts when we do the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Thanks Craig, this will be a first for me. A Fiat 600 and 63 VW dune buggy don't count. I have a carb lift plate on order, eta Fri. Any thing you can think of let me know. I'll put it on jack stands also on the day of install. Right now I have the trans a frame and drive shaft safety loop loosely installed.
Thanks, JR
 

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If you got your engine from Mike Forte you are going to need to pull the carb off anyway as it will likely have a thin aluminum plate between the carb and intake for shipping.

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Discussion Starter #126
If you got your engine from Mike Forte you are going to need to pull the carb off anyway as it will likely have a thin aluminum plate between the carb and intake for shipping.

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I checked this morning and nothing between carb and intake except the gasket.
JR
 

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You may not have had one. I called to talk to him about my linkage not moving more than a fraction of an inch and felt like an idiot when he pointed out they put a plate between for shipping. I didn't see it until I pulled the carb off and flipped it over. The plate was stuck to the gasket so it stayed attached to the carb when it was removed. It's a thin piece of aluminum.


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I would leave the trans A frame off and probably the safety hoop too. As the eng/trans is slowly going backward it is quite easy to lift the tailshaft up a little and let it temporarily sit on the cross tube. At that point we can slow down and think about sticking the drive shaft into the trans. It is real short as you see and so it is difficult to get the long snout into the trans if the trans is bolted in. We can also slip the hoop over the shaft but let it hang. It is very easy to lever the A frame into position. On one I helped w/ I put the rear of the A frame on top of the frame ear, a nd dropped a bolt through to locate it. Then I just pushed up on the front ends. I bolted them up one at a time. Did all that myself laying on the floor so you know it isn't hard to do. BTW, can you cancel the carb plate? I have a new levelor.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
The Carb plate has already shipped. I have a new leveler also. Have you ever used adjustable bell housing dowel pins? I'm just about to pop my cork with these things. Had to stop trying for today. I'll pull the trans a frame and drive shaft loop.
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #131
Big thanks to Bill at ffmetal (forum vendor) He is producing the firewall forward again and I got the very first one. Since he is so close to me he drove to my house yesterday to deliver and test fit it. Turns out it fit perfectly. Here are a few pics.
JR
 

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That looks really nice. I like the bulb seal to mate to the existing foot box panels; that's a more elegant solution than the original in my opinion.

Have fun drilling all those holes!


John
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Thanks John. I'm thinking of eng/trans going in on Fri 8/11. Let me know
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #135
Back at it

Been laid up for a few weeks. First day in the garage today. Looking forward to Friday for eng/trans install.
JR
 

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Discussion Starter #136 (Edited)
Success

The eng/trans are in thanks to CraigS, Tom and Henry thanks again. We had to shorten the actuator rod for the hyd clutch by probably 1 1/4". Also since I have a Dart block the motor mounts had to be massaged quite a bit but when we were ready the install took about 15 mins. John sorry you couldn't make it. I have a lot more room in my garage now, very happy.
JR
 

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Looks great JR! Sorry I missed it. Next time for sure.


John
 

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Going midshift? You'll need to cut the crossmember out. I did and didn't weld it back. But I know a place where you can get a new, thicker, hole-less tunnel top.
 

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Good one Bill! Always good to get a laugh from the forum! Ah dang, I forgot an emogi and can't add one in an edit.
 
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