Factory Five Racing Forum banner

81 - 100 of 288 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
889 Posts
Hi Jim,

Took your lead.. easier to fit the ductwork for the AC when its on the 'other' side of the cross brace with a few bits of PVC.. :) Made a couple of manifolds in 50 - 62 mm for the AC and floor vents and also drew up these parts for printing in ABS on my 3D printer.. easier and more space efficient than using PVC junctions.

Cheers.. :)

Chris
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Discussion Starter #82
Very nice. That's awesome you have access to a 3D printer. Makes things a little easier :). I actually had to heat the PVC up until it became rubbery so I could make it a little oblong on one piece so the printer would definitely be the way to go. What is the primary product that you produce with your printer?


Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,510 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,040 Posts
I meant to post this when I talked about the SAI mod and Bump steer.

This is what I used for a reference on how to get where I wanted to be for close to zero bump steer. Upper arm, lower Arm, and tie rod all meeting at the same instant center. This is what I went for and it worked for me.
I am not sure I thought I posted my question but looks like I didnt!

I have some questions here please;

1) on the photo it says the Inner mount Plane; what are these??
2) is the intersection point should be on the center of car? or any other location?

Thanks
Hakeem
 

·
Supreme Cobra Commander
Joined
·
9,692 Posts
Excellent work! Do you have the machines at home to make the parts or at work? I'd like to see some of your work setup? Lots of good ideas when I build the next one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
889 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
I am not sure I thought I posted my question but looks like I didnt!

I have some questions here please;

1) on the photo it says the Inner mount Plane; what are these??
2) is the intersection point should be on the center of car? or any other location?

Thanks
Hakeem
Hakeem,

Reference that bump steer drawing as your reading this.

Inner mount plane: A plane is an imaginary plane that passes through the pivot points. A good way to think of it is imagine a piece of paper that passes through the inner pivot points of the upper A-arm an the lower A-arm. forming a plane. It looks like a line on a 2 dimensional drawing when looked at from the front. So what you want is to make the inner tie rod pivot point, land on that inner plane OK. Then you want to draw a plane that passes through the ball joints of the A-arms, this will be the outer plane. Ok now draw a line through the top A-arm ball joint and the inner pivot point. Do the same on the lower arm, see where they meet on the drawing, that is the instant center and "No it doesn't need to be in the center of the car". Ok now draw a line from the instant center through the inner tie rod end and keep going until you meet the outer plane line. Where it meets the outer plane line "Is exactly where you want your outer tie rod pivot to be" if you don't want bump steer.

If this doesn't make sense let me know.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
Excellent work! Do you have the machines at home to make the parts or at work? I'd like to see some of your work setup? Lots of good ideas when I build the next one.
Tim,

I program and run a 5-axis vertical machine center at work. I work in a Prototype environment. When the machines aren't tied up running jobs we can use them on the weekends sometimes. So that's how the intake and other complex parts were machined. I have a Monarch EE lathe and Anilam controlled Bridgeport 3 axis machine, Kalamazoo Startrite band saw, TIG welder and MIG welder all at home out in my shop. So all of the welding and lighter machining takes place at home. It's taken me several years to acquire all this equipment, but well worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Discussion Starter #89
Rear Brake Ducts continued

I finally got a chance to trim the ducts to the shape of the body. At the seam it didn't fill very well so I ground it out so I could fill it with a mixture of resin 1/4" chopped fiberglass and Cabosil mixed to a peanut butter thickness.

It isn't an ideal seam like Mike from Atlanta would recommend, but it will have to do. I actually tried to put glass cloth down into the seam by using 3M 77, and it looked great, but then I put a thin coat of resin on it and it all popped up and caused an air pocket so I ditch that idea and just used the mixture.

I will let that cure for a couple of days then grind on it on Tuesday and get the inlet shaped with a nice radius all around.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
889 Posts
Hakeem,

Reference that bump steer drawing as your reading this.

Inner mount plane: A plane is an imaginary plane that passes through the pivot points. A good way to think of it is imagine a piece of paper that passes through the inner pivot points of the upper A-arm an the lower A-arm. forming a plane. It looks like a line on a 2 dimensional drawing when looked at from the front. So what you want is to make the inner tie rod pivot point, land on that inner plane OK. Then you want to draw a plane that passes through the ball joints of the A-arms, this will be the outer plane. Ok now draw a line through the top A-arm ball joint and the inner pivot point. Do the same on the lower arm, see where they meet on the drawing, that is the instant center and "No it doesn't need to be in the center of the car". Ok now draw a line from the instant center through the inner tie rod end and keep going until you meet the outer plane line. Where it meets the outer plane line "Is exactly where you want your outer tie rod pivot to be" if you don't want bump steer.

If this doesn't make sense let me know.

Jim

Hi Jim,

Appreciate you posting the pic.

My understanding of the pic and your prior post was to use a laser pointer (or rule) and mark the points on a fixed sheet of cardboard / paper, adjust and recheck the control arms / tie rod, until the planes of each component have been appropriately aligned..?

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Discussion Starter #92
Chris,

I suppose you could do it any way you wanted to. The route I choice was to measure where all the pivot points were with the chassis sitting at ride height then lay it out on CAD. This made it easy to see exactly where I needed to relocate the outer tie rod end to. Once I knew where it needed to be I designed the bracket to put it there.

You actually could just lay it out on a big piece of paper too instead of CAD.

When people use a laser they typically point it forward and watch what it does on the paper out in front of the car as they rise and lower the suspension, then play around with a bump steer kit until they get what they want. I wanted to use stock outer tie rods so I didn't want trial and error, I wanted to know exactly then build the custom bracket and be done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,040 Posts
Hakeem,

Reference that bump steer drawing as your reading this.

Inner mount plane: A plane is an imaginary plane that passes through the pivot points. A good way to think of it is imagine a piece of paper that passes through the inner pivot points of the upper A-arm an the lower A-arm. forming a plane. It looks like a line on a 2 dimensional drawing when looked at from the front. So what you want is to make the inner tie rod pivot point, land on that inner plane OK. Then you want to draw a plane that passes through the ball joints of the A-arms, this will be the outer plane. Ok now draw a line through the top A-arm ball joint and the inner pivot point. Do the same on the lower arm, see where they meet on the drawing, that is the instant center and "No it doesn't need to be in the center of the car". Ok now draw a line from the instant center through the inner tie rod end and keep going until you meet the outer plane line. Where it meets the outer plane line "Is exactly where you want your outer tie rod pivot to be" if you don't want bump steer.

If this doesn't make sense let me know.

Jim
Thanks Jim That makes sense. one question though. the lower arm should be horizontal or not?

Thanks
Hakeem
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,114 Posts
Hakeem,

Reference that bump steer drawing as your reading this.

Inner mount plane: A plane is an imaginary plane that passes through the pivot points. A good way to think of it is imagine a piece of paper that passes through the inner pivot points of the upper A-arm an the lower A-arm. forming a plane. It looks like a line on a 2 dimensional drawing when looked at from the front. So what you want is to make the inner tie rod pivot point, land on that inner plane OK. Then you want to draw a plane that passes through the ball joints of the A-arms, this will be the outer plane. Ok now draw a line through the top A-arm ball joint and the inner pivot point. Do the same on the lower arm, see where they meet on the drawing, that is the instant center and "No it doesn't need to be in the center of the car". Ok now draw a line from the instant center through the inner tie rod end and keep going until you meet the outer plane line. Where it meets the outer plane line "Is exactly where you want your outer tie rod pivot to be" if you don't want bump steer.

If this doesn't make sense let me know.

Jim


I did a few things to get the bump steer corrected.

http://www.mycoupe.ca/modules/wordpress/?p=153
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
The lower control arm doesn't need to be parrallel.


One thing that I would like to add for all the newer owners out there: FFR has changed there: spindles, there steering arm on there spindles, upper A-arm mount, and the location of the rack. All of these things helped SAI, and has most likely gotten rid of bump steer. So the things I did you will most likely not need to do.


Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,040 Posts
The lower control arm doesn't need to be parrallel.


One thing that I would like to add for all the newer owners out there: FFR has changed there: spindles, there steering arm on there spindles, upper A-arm mount, and the location of the rack. All of these things helped SAI, and has most likely gotten rid of bump steer. So the things I did you will most likely not need to do.


Jim
Thanks for the info. yeah i read this at one of your posts. I just want to see how its done. you never know whats the future hiding :001_rolleyes::001_rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Discussion Starter #98
working on Coupe again

Well after taking almost a year off from the coupe due to a house remodel project, I'm finally back on the coupe.

I'm currently working on Glass side windows that will be power windows. I spent quite a bit of time looking it over and trying to figure out the best way to do this and I finally formed a plan and have started down the path. I have one window frame tacked together and I'm working on a jig to hold it steady to perform the final welding. I will post pictures pretty soon. The window will pass between the upper crash bar and lower crash bar. I will be removing the vertical bar crash bar close to the back of the door to allow the window to pass through.

Anyway, I just wanted to update all of you incase you thought I feel off the planet :)

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Great to meet you yesterday Jim and check out your very special Coupe project! Fantastic job! Get that car on the road to completion so we can have three Coupes all in the Grand Ledge area!

Best Regards,

Mike (and Jack)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Discussion Starter #100
Mike, Jack,

That was a lot of fun talking with you guys. It's always fun to talk with people that have knowledge of these types of projects and can appreciate the time that goes into them.

I'll do my best to get this project done sooner than later. Life gets in the way sometimes :)

Take care,

Jim
 
81 - 100 of 288 Posts
Top